88pathoffroad

If it's just the dash lights and not the gauges, it's most likely the dimmer.

That would be the breather tube for the transmission. It should not be spewing fluid, and it should have a hose hooked to it, yes.

Sounds like you created a giant mess of the wiring for yourself. That's going to take a lot of testing and troubleshooting to fix.

Ouch. Damn. Good job, man.

There is no benefit to filling tires with helium aside from a lack of moisture in the gas. Regular atmosphere works fine.

Nice skid! I'mna make me one of those one of these days when I get that damn welder back from my friend Mark.

I know what prepaying is, I was being facetious. They just don't do it around here.

I got one from a Knecht's Auto Parts locally. They have small parts/bolts bins in there with all different kinds of stuff in 'em.

What is this "prepay" thing of which you speak? Shxt, a lot of gas stations around here can't even accept a card at the pump. And I have to stand around waiting for someone else to get to me cause I can't *legally* even touch the pump handle. It's ridiculous. On another note, NGK's work fine for me, and I use the ratchet/extension/u-joint to get to the rear plug on mine.

That sounds like a cool idea to me. Count me in if you end up getting any made.

Or just avoid dunking it into mudholes. Heh. I just try to avoid problems unless it's something I have to do...

The heads are all the same from 87-95 AFAIK. Even on the Maximas and 300Z's with the N/A VG30E. Results may vary, but the increase in displacement will make the difference for you. The cat-back should be exactly the same. The 2-doors were only a few inches off from the 4-doors IIRC. They didn't change much till they came out with the caR50 design.

Changing the timing will just make it ping on regular gas. I tried several different timing changes and didn't notice much difference, if any at all.

Yeah, a long time ago, heh. Mine are 33x13.50x15 on 15x8.5 wheels with neutral BS. I didn't buy the wheels from a catalog, I got them from my bud Les for $40 so I just ran 'em and they seem to work perfectly.

It should simply limit revs to 2800 RPM's with no MAF sensor. That's how you can tell if it's gone into safe mode.

That's a nice offer, but this thread is for tmorgan's offer. If you'd like to offer to have some made yourself, start another thread please.

They don't know what they're talking about. I'd look elsewhere for new springs, actually. You'll probably wait 6 months for them anyway with their track record.

Tried replacing the flasher yet? Check your taillight wiring for a botched trailer wiring install.

No such thing as a tach cable, it's electrically driven.

It should run fine, mine does.

None of the BL kits come with a t-case lever extension. You gotta make it work all by yourself. A HB shifter works, too.

A-ha! I knew there was something I was forgetting.

Yep. True dat.

You've followed the CC vaccuum line from the diaphragm to it's connecting point, then?

IIRC, I hit about 2300 RPM's at 60 MPH with 33x13.50's and an automatic. The manuals don't have OD or a locking torque converter, that's why they rev higher.