88pathoffroad

Definitely not cost effective. $500 per R/P set is outrageous.

Holy crap, why would you look at Land Rovers? Those things are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ to fix ANYTHING on. My buddy has a Rover and everything that dies on it has been impossible to find for cheap, and none of the junkyards have any. Wierdest thing to die: it has an electric hydraulic motor to run the brakes. If it dies, you have no brakes. Check carsurvey.org, maybe. Good luck.

Yes, but it'll run the tranny hotter and probably kill it sooner than later...

That's entirely possible if you can find an honest shop willing to do it. Most shops quote prices for OEM parts and won't help you on price.

Mine were $12 per boot from CarQuest. Steeevo, is your upper balljoint/UCA bolted in yet? If the knuckle/brakes are still dropped down too far the axle won't slip all the way through. Jack it up a little more under the LCA.

Auto parts store. Look in the tow hitch/tire accessory aisle. They make pairs of 1" rubber coil spring spacers that sell for about $10 or so. Dunno how stable they are though, they're kinda skinny. There was a guy rolling on 10" of lift for quite some time until he rolled it and got something else. I never heard of any problems with it. You HAVE to upgrade the steering, that's a gimmie.

And where, pray tell, am I supposed to find E85 around here? I've never even seen it offered anywhere. BTW, regular is $2.85 or so here in Oregon.

Ew, owie. Time for a trans rebuild. Sounds like MaritimeMan's tranny, which stripped the input shaft...like so:

BTW, turbo Impulses from 90-93 have nice NACA style scoops. You can still order them from an Isuzu dealership for $35 each or so, last time I checked.

Computer case fans won't do diddly squat for an engine bay, I don't care how many you attempt to install. The rad fan will overpower them all at idle. Simply cutting holes in the hood will do more for you. $129 for aftermarket vents is hiiiiiigh...I'd just find some at the junkyard. Martin: you can have these for $25 if you want 'em. That's what I paid for 'em back in the day. No cracks or fractures, just need depainting and repainting.

You gotta turn the belt over a little and look at the inside of it to check for wear. If there are more than two or three cracks per inch inside the belt, replace it. The outside edges will not show wear(of course) because they don't contact anything during use.

Mine's disconnected. *shrug*

I'd look for two holes, not just one.

Too many possibilities, narrow it down.

An e-fan might add a little, but I doubt much more than 1-2 HP. The headers and intake are a definite power-adder. Bump the timing up from 12 to 14-16, hook it up with a nice exhaust and muffler and you should be quite a bit happier with it.

If you want to go that high, get the TM lift, put on aftermarket UCA's and crank it up 3", then use the 3" lift springs with the spacers and top it off with a 3" body lift. There you go, 10" of lift and you could run 36's.

I've got a pair of the turbo LeBaron louvers. They're heavy, thick plastic/ABS pieces. Been thinking about using them on the Pathy. They're pretty big, actually. *goes and measures* 14.25x9.25x8.5". Subtract about .5" for the underside lip that would go in the holes you'd have to cut. Here's a sample pic.

I'd look for a wrecked manual tranny Pathy for cheap(if you want to swap to a manual, that is), then you'd have all the parts to swap over on hand. Otherwise you're looking at a lot of junkyard runs...

You can get a diff drop bushing set from SLR. They cost $150 though. Drops the front diff 5/8" to compensate CV angles when lifted. I'd rather just drop the diff, weld some 3/16" plate over the mounting tabs, drill new holes 1" down and bolt it back in. What if someone were to cut a CV axle halfshaft in half, then weld a sleeve on one side(making sure the shaft stays the same length when compressed) and either spline or hex the opposite side to match the new sleeve...*gasps for breath* ...for a homemade slipshaft in the middle of the CV? What if someone cut out CV spacers to fit the diff flanges that space the axles out a little farther and help reduce angles at full suspension droop? I don't know how thick you would need to go(or want to go as an experiment ) but Chevy IFS lifts come with CV spacers to fix the problem, so I know it's a viable solution. By the way, the inner boots tear first usually cause that's the extension side of the shaft. The CV at the wheel just rotates, it doesn't move in and out.

The Grand Cherokees with the 5.9 V8 have louvers in the hood stock, if that was what you were thinking of... What about just plain sheetmetal louvering it in two places? Are there any local sheetmetal or body shops that might be able to cut louvers cleanly in there for a fee, perhaps? I've seen quite a few hot-rod pickups with louvered tailgates, hoods, fenders, etc. Like so:

...or you could get a pair of these on Ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-95-NISSA...009060665QQrdZ1

What happened was that they changed steel suppliers and didn't coat it very well. The coatings then proceeded to flake right off and rust set in due to the uncoated "new alloy" steel they switched to. At least, that's what I've heard. They should have used a higher chromium content steel to avert rust problems, probably.

Actually, that's a grilleguard, not a bull bar. No biggie. Tell your GF to watch out for the radiator drain hose, those sneaky Pathfinders just love to dribble on you from underneath when you're not watching!

Obviously you need an alignment.