88pathoffroad

Shee, my GF's bone-stock Matrix does a 14 sec. 1/4 mile. Look it up sometime. 2ZZGE mean anything to y'all?

All you need is the kit. It's not a "suspension replacement", it's just new springs and shocks. There are a WHOLE lot more parts in your suspension than just those things.

The cat runs under the driver's side, if I'm not mistaken...unless he has a right-hand drive model, in which case that's probably it. The rubber boot around the transfer case and transmission shifters will tear apart over time, that's another likely reason for feeling heat near there.

HAHAHAHAHAHHA! Teh funnay!

Excellent info, thanks. I'll add to the first post so it's easier for new folks to find it.

The steering column will be fine.

I'm at home now. *goes out and measures* The crank bolt on my 89 is 27mm.

Why didn't you buy new gaskets before you took 'em off? It's a gimmie that you should replace them when you take off the manifolds. Sounds like you had a pretty easy time of it, actually.

They're set up the exact same way on the rear axle. Control arms, trailing arms, axle links, whatever you want to call 'em. Have someone shove the back end back and forth while you lay under and watch the rear axle control arms. If they wobble back and forth excessively, there you go.

It's a scam. I haven't seen one "power chip super speed module for Nissan Pathfinder" Ebay auction that WASN'T.

I'd take off the bulb retainer ring and pull the bulb out before I tried taking out both headlights as a whole. Just a tip.

Yep, 90 degrees between the cams on top. A Nissan tech gave me that tip, said that's how he checks tension on all the t-belts he does.

37? I can't remember. It's bigger than 24, though.

That problem is particular to the R50's, not the WD21's. That's not to say it can't happen, but it doesn't seem to be a big problem like it is on the R50's.

Heh. I have yet to see a working diff fall apart if you open it up. By the way, it's a 50+ lb centersection, he'd have a hard time *just* "opening it up" to see what was inside... On some Chevy trucks with LSD, they come pre-loaded so tightly that the LSD doesn't slip hardly at all around corners. When the truck makes a turn, the shuddering noise would be one tire slipping as you move(or the LSD slipping internally), because the LSD is basically locking the rear diff up. I'd say that if you only encounter this kind of noise while turning, it's the stock LSD being a real tightass, or someone welded the rear diff before you got it.

That's not just an e-brake light. It is the brake WARNING light. Check your fluid level.

5:30 refers to the direction the Allen key would be pointing after the tensioner is set properly.

Ditto. Just jack up under the lower control arm.

All I'd add is to jack it up under the lower control arm, pull the upper BJ bolts, then it's a whole lot easier. Make sure you don't stretch your brake line too much. Just take it easy and be careful, the knuckle/brakes are heavy. Oh, and to get the CV bolts off at the diff, put 'er in 4LO and first gear so it won't rotate.

Or use two jackstands under the front crossmember.

Repost! hehe

Mine did that exact same thing when the coil's power transistor died. I am unsure if they use the same setup on the 97 Q's, but it may be worth looking into.

Hmm, I don't remember exactly, but there are only 6 positions you can stick an Allen key in there. If you stick it in and it comes to full tension before it's anywhere near 5:30, try the next lower position, you know?

The only manual hubs available in the US for a 99 Pathfinder are Warns, I believe. Stock Pathfinders come with drive flanges, not hubs. Nothing else interchanges.

I've seen Warns and Superwinch hubs shatter on a couple of occasions. The Warns typically last longer, though. I've even broken OEM Nissan manual hubs.