88pathoffroad

I'd suspect a vaccuum problem first. Make sure the check valve for the brake booster is working and connected.

Compress the shock by hand to get it on. Unless you're female, I suppose.

Ground the wire. It should then "indicate" to the alarm unit that the hood is always closed.

Duals are a tight fit unless you have a body lift. There's no place to run the second pipe except beside the first.

That's right where the catalytic converter is. Perhaps it's missing a heat shield.

Not too sure on the R50 requirements, but most people just go with NGK's. What's so tough about the #6 plug? Ratchet, extension, u-joint and a socket and it's out.

Yeah...I was going to look for one as well when my auto crapped out, but the number of OEM parts required to swap it over is pretty daunting.

If you have daytime running lights, there's a module under the hood for that.

The swaybar is the limiting factor on the rear end, not the shocks.

Cut out all the rust and rot and weld in new steel. That's about it.

THe stock 3.3 is bored and stroked. The most you can get out of a stock 3.0 is about .2L extra. Lots of companies make aftermarket pistons, rods, etc, the 300ZX crowd is very performance-minded and they use the same engine. Thing is, with gas prices so high, who wants to have to run 92 octane all the time?

ABS control unit, yes.

*Most* do, but some don't.

What year and model? Info, please...

There are no relays for the headlights. Your multifunction switch(headlight, high beam, turn signal, etc) is sticking. You can take it apart and fix it yourself if you feel like it. This has been covered a hundred times.

The CV's don't spin in 2WD anyway, so they won't make noise. Retorquing the front frame-to-crossmember bolts often solves a popping noise in the front end, yes. Apart from that, I can't say. It's tough to troubleshoot problems over the internet. Damn, they want a lot for CV axles. They only run $110-$125 each new to begin with.

There is a shift kit available, yes. It's supposed to fix slippage and lockup problems by increasing line pressure. TransGo makes one. Search for: "RE4R01A shift kit".

*IF* the ice has not been sanded and/or is completely smooth and slippery, then I'd agree with the ice assumption. There are lots of places covered in ice that do offer traction, though.

They wouldn't use asbestos anyway, it's more like fiberglass.

There are no online manuals for anything older than 94. Sorry.

You need an appropriately sized metal tube to punch them out with from the bottom, that's all. I've done mine, they're not that bad.

That thing's been on CarDomain for forever. Huge stereo install, lots of mods listed and NOT ONE PIC of any of the listed mods. Bastids, anyway.

I had to pull the axle to get mine off. Use a BJ puller, not a pickle fork. Much more stable and easier to use. If it's stubborn, hit it with some heat from a propane torch.

You can pull it and torch it with a propane torch set on low. Heat it up to red-hot, but not much more. Carbon and crap will burn off slightly at that point and you'll get a cherry-red flame. Let it cool off after hitting it with the flame every now and then.

Wierd, I've seen lots of people that want one and I've never ever seen one in person or at the junkyard. Must be one of those options that were rare.