88pathoffroad

It says right on the auction page that it doesn't have the compass or temp readouts on it...

Kudos Dan, that was an excellent write-up and install. Good job!

Common causes for that are the frame-to-crossmember bolts being a little loose or the turn stops rubbing their sockets with no plastic caps on them.

Nope. The brake system is supposed to be full of fluid to begin with. There's no way to overfill anything but the reservoir.

Radio Shack or Fry's Electronics, for two.

I vote belts or pulley surfaces. Pull the belts one at a time and see if it goes away.

Still won't work because the year, make, model and engine you chose are saved in a cookie on your computer, not on ours. We'd all have to go through the same rigamarole to view the parts, so it doesn't save any time posting a link for that search on that site in particular. No biggie.

There's only one type of wheel bearing. I'd try a different parts store. 87's came 2WD and 4WD. Oh, and your link won't work cause it's cookie-driven...other people without the same cookie for that specific website won't be able to view the same page you are.

Find a cheap expendable 12-point socket that's nearly the same size and pound it onto the nut. Use a ratchet or breaker bar to remove it. Or weld a nut onto the top of the old nut and crank it off that way.

It's people that think that way that end up selling a clapped-out Pathy with problems nobody can fix, telling everyone what a piece of crap it is...regular maintenance will keep things under control.

Yes, it's simple. Find a large cooler and install it. Instructions come with if you buy one as a kit.

Standard hose and barbed ends with clamps works great. No need for expensive hoses with fittings, etc.

How did you take teeth off the belt if the balancer is still on? I hope you didn't bend any valves by accidentally rotating the crank while the cams were stopped...

Exact same procedure for 87-95 VG30 engines. The only difference is a bit of accessories and the belt itself, from 87-92 they're square-toothed, from 93-95 they're round-toothed. My Chilton's has a fairly decent write-up in it, are you sure you were looking in the correct section?

The LED's on the ECU will flash the error codes for you. The check engine light isn't the way to do it, it flashes with both the green and the red LED anyway.

You might start by stating what year and engine you already have.

You might be surprised at the number of miscellaneous switches that are the same size and shape of the holes in the dash...I bet someone just wanted to fill an empty hole. Pull the switch out and see if it has stock wiring plugged into it or not.

The hubs will have more effect than the plugs, but why not do both? The plugs aren't that expensive and it couldn't hurt.

The stock alarm splices into the ignition switch wiring inside the steering column cover. I believe all it does is interrupt the ignition switch circuit when the alarm is going off...or when it malfunctions, maybe?

You may have bent tie rods. If the tires are toed together too much it would make them squeal from the poor alignment resulting from bending up the tie rods, centerlink, idler arm, anything in the steering system that was already semi-loose and just needed a few nudges to get it to go off-whack on you.

The problems could be unrelated. I have no idea.

My line of thought about the heat shield idea is: when in motion the vehicle gets enough airflow from the front, through the engine compartment and out the bottom, so that even at low speeds the hot air or heat generated by the engine's proximity to the air intake is greatly overcome by the incoming cool air moving in through the grille, around the headlights and through all the other front-end openings. I really don't see the need for it unless you'll need a lot of extra power and cool airflow while sitting in 5-o'clock traffic.

You know, rebuilding your own CV's is real easy if the internals aren't ruined by sand and dirt before you get around to fixing them. Simply pull all the parts off, clean them well (you could degrease the needle bearings inside the tripod joints, but if the grease still looks semidecent in there I'd leave it alone, just cause it's a PITA to re-grease them) and reassemble with new boots and grease. Tighten down the clamps and they're rebuilt, ready to go another 5 years. I've done three or four of my own already.

It'll only recalibrate itself if you reset it by disconnecting the battery. New plugs won't do that.

I don't think you can selectively change modes like that. You could probably just disconnect the O2 sensor, after warm-up it'd just run in open loop by itself.