88pathoffroad

Pressure wash everything under the hood with real degreaser(not the Gunk crap-in-a-can) while you have the chance. Do you know anyone with one you can borrow?

Mustangs are cool, but I still love the styling of the 5.0. Nothing sweeter than hearing a small-block Ford at 6000 RPM's through headers and the track-only h-pipe with Flowmasters.

Weld another nut on top of it and twist 'em off.

The least you can do is change the oil again with full synthetic and pour an extra quart in through the shifter hole to make sure it has enough. Leaving it alone, it'll probably just get worse and worse until something fails.

I stand amended. If you can find the diffs, you could swap centersections. They're still not that cheap. Ah well. *sigh*

You can't change gearing unless you want to pay $500 per axle from Nissan. That's JUST for the gears, not for install or disassembly. Not one aftermarket company produces gears for Nissans.

Dude, this question has been gone over RECENTLY and thoroughly. The info is already out there. Look around a bit more.

I've got two cupholders inside the console lid. Maybe some junkyard diving would be in order for you?

You *could* swap all the intake and everything over from a VG30E(the heads should be the same, 300Z's didn't get special heads), but you'd also need a new ECU, wiring and fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc...there are a lot of things to do for that idea to work. It's not all easy bolt-ons. Plus, you'd only get about a 20 HP boost at the high end.

Now there's determination! Coolness! Nice work on the stainless piping. Not TBI, tho. It's MPFI. I'm diggin' the custom fuel rail with crimped brass fittings, too. I bet that thing'll never need replacing again. I wonder if the turbo is only going to be run off the right bank of cylinders, or if it's going to be piped around the back from the other side. I also hope they get a heat bag or insulation on the hot side of the turbo or it may melt the radiator in it's current position. I wouldn't write off a Vortec style supercharger. If you have the time, determination and talent you can do most anything you want to a vehicle. Look at Monster Garage.

Look underneath for any sticks or branches stuck anywhere, and check the radiator fan for obstructions or debris. Just in case.

Could also be the hose connected to the heater core leaking and making it's way inside. You never know!

Check the wiring plug for the mass airflow sensor. They're notoriously flaky and often cause the sort of problem you're having. There is a How-To in the Garage section with the where's and how's of checking and cleaning your MAF sensor.

With a hose. Use some Simple Green or Purple Power(Castrol de-greaser) for the more heavily grimed areas and it should be good to go. Hose it off cold, too, not hot. Try to avoid hosing the electrical connectors.

It's not cheap, either. Aftermarket kits/support for Nissans is unheard of for the garage mechanic, parts-wise.

Those things suck anyway, they only hold cans of soda and it's not all that stable to begin with. At least, that's what I've heard.

The fuel filter is easy as pie, it's right under the hood on the passenger's side. Unclamp, pull hoses off, replace, re-clamp. Oh, pull your fuel pump fuse, then start it and let it run till it dies first, that'll relieve the fuel pressure in the lines and filter. The t-belt write-up...man oh man. Mechman2K and I did a complete write-up on my old forums with pictures of everything and then it got hacked, so it's gone...try searching the web for the 300ZX crowd's coverage of how to change the belt for a VG30E. Same engine, same thing for the VG30i as well.

Of course it's possible. You just have to spend a lot of cash and time on it.

I have a chrome rear bumper off a 95 on my 88, if that helps. They all fit from 87-95.

I doubt it. They went to unibody on the R50 and redisigned a lot of things... I could be wrong. *shrug*

Woop, my bad. I got that impression from reading posts other places, probably had the info wrong from the get-go.

They're M10x1.5's. I just went out and measured.

It should work fine without it. Mine's been unplugged/blocked off for a while now. 'Course, that's a very valid point about fuel economy, but if it was working poorly or not at all to begin with, how will you know?

Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminum and iron or steel in close contact will corrode each other, given enough time.

That's a generic universal heated O2 sensor. That's a very good price, though. I may buy one for my Pathy as well. AFAIK, all WD21 Pathfinders use the 3-wire heated sensor.