sewebster

Missing bull semen... nice

If you have an adjustable DC power supply (or can cobble some sort of ac/dc adapter together) then you might be able to try to power the gauge "manually" and see if you can get it to move. Of course the sender(s) could also be busted, it's just unlikely they that both died at the same time.

Tightening raises the truck, loosening lowers it.

So you have the correct 8V output from the regulator? Can you check that you get 8V and ground at the gauges themselves?

Where did you add the ground exactly? Or did you find a link here that describes it? Awesome that you got it running well!

I thought he was saying it would start missing when he detuned it by 2-3 degrees. Anyway, that sounds a bit unexpected to me. The symptoms he describes sound a little worse than a slight timing problem. But it only makes sense to put the distributor in correctly and time it properly...

Putting the distributor in "wrong" will just prevent you from getting the proper timing. If you can get it to 15BTDC then you should be good. Taking everything apart and putting it back together again could just have revealed a simple problem in your ignition or something. Check all the usual suspects... plugs, wires, rotor, cap, injector (I guess there is one on a TBI?), fuel pressure etc. Also, are you super sure the timing belt is on right? Did you count the teeth on the belt between the marks on the sprockets?

I mentioned getting my transmission rebuilt to my local dealer (Southside Nissan in Vancouver, I assume you went somewhere else?) and they said that they didn't do it because they would charge too much and referred me to some transmission shops. I asked how much they wanted for a new transmission and t-case and they said $10000. I don't remember if that included installation.

If that is next to your brake booster, then I have a wire in a similar location, that leads nowhere. But it has a different connector with a cap on it. I have a 91.

Not to threadjack too much, but where is the clutch interlock override switch? My manual says it should be on the right side of the steering column near the hazard/rear wiper switches, but it isn't there. I do have two unknown "on/off" switches to the right of my parking brake. My truck lurches forward if I try to start without clutching, so I am currently just permanently overridden...

Haha, gave you a lot of info there! Yeah, I wouldn't mind finding a spare right cowl cover. Are they the same on all WD21s? Of course the mesh is a good idea anyway, because leaves get past the stock covers pretty easily it seems.

The lifters? They are actually all brand new. I'm not really sure what the deal is with them. They are all "hard" and not super spongy, but when a valve is open (and hence the spring is pushing the rocker down hard on the lifter, it collapses, then when I rotate the engine around some more, it comes back up to full height and is still hard. Could be high pressure gas inside? I just replaced my oil pump, which I believe was sucking air before, so maybe it pumped air into them. Hopefully it will bleed out as I drive. They aren't particularly loud right now (lifters totally soft sound pretty obvious I think) but I can hear some tapping if I open the hood. I think my next step, if it comes to that, would be to disassemble them and reassemble under oil to make sure no air can get in... Or maybe them collapsing under the force of the valve spring is normal, but I can't see how... oil is incompressible...

Might be worth getting one of those pick things to pry the seal out. Don't take off the oil pan if you don't need to!

I had a daydream the other day where I had 6 holes in my hood with pipes coming straight from all six exhaust ports and out the top, with flappers.

Removed the plenum and poked around at my valve lifters. I think they might have some air in them. Removed AAC valve and poked around in it, seems to be ok. Put it back together. Glued a piece of window screen over the missing grille thing at the back of my hood to stop leaves from building up in my heater.

NOx can be caused by overadvanced ignition timing and lean fuel/air mixture in addition to EGR problems (plus bad cats or combustion chamber deposits).

Mine (1991) was attached to the truck with a bracket that screwed into some holes in the side of the radio and then into two holes above the radio. You might be able to get it at a wreckers, but since I think all the radios come with lots of holes in the sides, maybe you can get some standard bracket somewhere? Not sure.

Idle the truck and feel around underneath to figure out which gasket is leaking (don't burn yourself). You can get a gasket at any parts store or the dealer. They are a bit different and I like the dealer ones better, but they cost more... but less than $10 in any event, so it doesn't really matter much. Exhaust isn't really a finesse thing, you just have to make it work

I don't have an automatic in my truck, but if RPM was the only deciding factor in shifting, then automatics would really suck.

Hmm. Those things are floor tie downs? I think I might have recycled a bunch of those I found in my truck when I bought it. Oops. Need to check my pile of "misc parts I have no idea what they do." I guess the idea is just to secure junk in the cargo area?

The metal will likely spread the heat away better than the carpet, but fixing any exhaust leaks is generally a good idea...

Duratrac has the winter snowflake symbol so it should be half decent in winter... it's what I have but I just got them.

Low brake fluid?

Yep, there's a hole in my floor there. That gasket is a PITA. The dealer one (squishable multiple layers of sheet metal) seems better, but I think it's leaking again anyway. I need to do a proper fix. It's pretty easy to look under the truck and see if you have a hole in your floor...

Here's what I'd do: -jack front end (put on jack stands) -engage 4-hi -try to spin front drive shaft, if you can spin it, your transfer case or shift lever is busted -assuming you couldn't spin it, switch to 2wd -spin front drive shaft, at least one front wheel should turn -shove something under the wheel that turned so it can't move easy -rotate front drive shaft again, the other wheel should turn -remove block on front wheel -spin one front wheel, the other wheel should turn the opposite direction (assuming open diff) and the front drive shaft should turn I hope all that is correct...