sewebster

If you're gonna dump it, you might want to try it yourself. The seals themselves are only a few bucks. It's all labour. I guess you should do your t-belt too, and that's maybe $50.

How does the sensor attach? strap it on to the coolant temp sensor?

The procedure should be in the FSM. The general idea is to install the bearing, torque it tight (50 ft-lbs?), rotate the wheel a few times each way to work out any play, then loosen and tighten the locknut as usual (i.e. barely at all).

I think I've only ever replaced shoes (not on my pathfinder, on other vehicles) due to brake fluid contamination from leaky wheel cylinders.

Bought $500 worth of welding junk (not including the welder) in order to fix the floor (helmet, gas bottle, jacket, gloves, 100' 12ga extension cord etc.). Does this make sense? Who knows.

Yeah I would try adjusting the mini-drums. They are not self-ratcheting like regular drum brakes, so need to be adjusted occasionally. Theoretically it is possible through a port on the back... but I'd take it apart to inspect and see which way to turn the adjuster wheel.

If you have rear drum brakes, then yeah, you need to make sure that they are properly adjusted (for regular braking) as a precondition for the parking brake to work. If you have rear disc, then (at least on my 91) there is actually an entire separate mini-drum brake inside the rotor! And the star wheel needs to be adjusted on that (per the fsm instructions) in order for the p-brake to work. When I replaced my parking brake cables my p-brake did nothing until I totally adjusted the system.

Hehe, yeah, probably emulating a pro isn't such a bad idea Thanks.

Cool. Yeah, I figured that just running all the way around would not work. I guess the question is, once you have it basically all stitched up close together, should you seal it like you did, or "fill in the gaps" with the welder. Maybe using the sealer is just easier, or maybe filling in the gaps is just asking for trouble with burn through or something.

Yeah, the usual thing is to change just the pads. However, you want to make sure your rotor is in good shape or you'll wear your pads too fast. Having the rotor turned is probably a decent idea, but unless "something bad happens" you should be able to resurface it a couple times before replacing. That said, I just replaced all 4 rotors on my truck (wd21) because they were basically totally destroyed by seized calipers.

The most I could get in using the tilt method was 5 quarts. I was already pretty sketched out by it, but maybe if I allowed myself to be even more sketched I could get the full amount in. I would go the shifter route in the future.

Good to have the part info, but if you were to bother replacing the oil switch I would strongly consider installing an electrical oil pressure gauge, either one that also runs the dummy light or with a tee to include the nissan switch too.

No idea on the stock alarm system, but maybe unplug the battery?

Does that stuff hold up to heat from the exhaust below? I assume you put that on because you just tacked it down all the way around instead of a continuous bead.

Yeah, I kinda realize that this isn't necessarily a trivial task. I previously considered the rivet route. I think the main reasons I still got a welder are: I want to learn to weld, I worry about any filler I put in the seams failing under heat from the exhaust, and I need to weld up some new cups for my front suspension rods too. Sounds like your usage of silicone will be heat resistant, but then you can't really paint it I guess. Maybe that doesn't matter. How did you deal with all the junk under the seats was anything hard to get in the right place? Maybe the only things that you need to have there are the seat belt which isn't precise and the parking brake cable which also doesn't really matter. Dunno if the seat hold down clamp thing is important for safety or not? Seems like that could be hard to place right.

Yeah, I'm mostly worried about your #1. I hope to realize that #3 is an problem and cut away more material than might be obvious until I find some good metal. I still need to figure out if I'm less likely to punch through with 24 thou wire and shielding gas or if I could use 30 thou flux core. I don't really know much about welding on vehicles. Do I need to unplug the battery or anything? My plan is to cut away the rust, prep the metal with a grinder (maybe flap wheel), tack a sheet in place, heat with oxy-acetylene and hammer to form into the proper shape, and then weld around the edges where it should now all be in contact. I'll be doing this from the top with the carpet and seats out. Ideally I won't end up with any overlap on the bottom, because I figure that would rust like crazy. I guess if I start blasting through then I'll have to solve the problem, but realistically the problem won't be much worse than it is now Does anyone know the thickness of the sheet used in the wd21 floors off hand?

I don't know anything about car stereos, but don't the decks always have built in amps? Or do you guys just need more power? I'm just really glad my speakers are directly wired to the stereo...

I agree, the unplugging does sound like a pain. Retiming the engine takes like 2 minutes though, not to mention that if you mark the distributor well you don't even really need to do it. Yes, FSM is linked up here somewhere, shouldn't be hard to find...

Sounds like the way to go for me is to somehow get one of those $50 ones. But I haven't even seen a non-auto-darkening for that little so far in my search up here in the great white north. Need to look harder and/or go to the US.

Yeah, I agree, I'm pretty sure that I'll get terrible starts to the weld if I have to do the starting blind, so I want auto darkening. However, the cheapest auto darkening helmets ($100-$150) just switch to shade 10. If you pay more ($200-$250?) then you can get a variable shade autodarkening, which goes from 8-13, allowing for proper vision during a wider variety of welding processes. But I don't need to have a helmet for welding the golden gate bridge, just something for using this small 115V mig. So maybe the cheaper one would be fine. I looked at a table and I think that maybe I can get away with shade 10, but I am a novice... In an ideal world I'd just get the $2000 helmet that comes with all the doodads, but, then I'd be spending more than $350 on a welder...

Yeah, I was thinking that chain and padlock thing would be good just for looks.

It looks like I'm going to be picking up a used Millermatic 135 tonight. It seems like it should be good for my purposes, and will be cheaper than anything new from a "reputable" manufacturer Now I need to figure out if I can get away with flux core to repair the floor (will I be blasting through?) and need to decide how much to spend on a helmet (do I need variable shade when all I've got is this small welder?).

Valve stem seals gone?

Yeah, I emptied the metal filled old stuff and put in 5 quarts (most I could get in via tipping the truck and almost the full amount) of Redline MT90 but I don't think it did much. Probably too far gone. I bet the low fluid was the problem that caused my 3rd and 5th issues, but the 4th gear popping out is something actually broken I think. I can almost live with it, but my wife wants to learn to drive a manual and this is not the best learning situation It's hard to shift sometimes too, not sure if that is related. Mostly hard to get into 1st.

Busted injector or connection? You can try the injector diagnostics in the FSM. One is to systematically unplug injectors while the engine is running to see if ay of them do NOT cause the engine to stumble (if nothing happens when you unplug then the injector wasn't working). The other is the pull the distributor and rotate it by hand (engine off of course) and you should hear each injector click in sequence as you move the distributor around. Oh, and measure the resistances of your injectors. Should be 10-14 ohms I think, but look up the spec for your injectors.