sewebster

I would definitely check this out. You don't want to lose your steering entirely. Doesn't really sound like a tie-rod, ball-joint, or bushing problem to me. It sounds more like the steering wheel/shaft is losing its fixed connection to the system.

Hmm, I didn't cap mine at all, just left em hangin.

I would remove the battery from the vehicle, then hook up booster cables to the terminals and start it with a known good battery. If it starts, then remove the booster cables and put that battery in the truck and hook it up. If it doesn't start then you know it is the terminal connections. The battery doesn't care if it's on the ground or in the truck.

On top of the block, under the intake manifold.

Is that your brake pad falling off?

I have some similar problems with (non-moog) tie rod ends on my wd21. I need to learn to do better checks before I get it all put back together in the future. You can get a box of miscellaneous zerk fittings for a couple bucks. I guess I'm not sure if the threads are a universal standard.

Hehe, yeah, I can generally do it out of the average person's sight. I am actually mostly concerned about my landlord, who is kinda nozy, and probably thinks that having a welder even on her property is somehow a hazard to her well being. I just want to avoid the whole confrontation scenario. Anyway, glad to know what everyone out there isn't using a million special screens or anything

bad battery connection...

I did end up getting the Millermatic 135 I mentioned above... I'm trying to practice, but it's hard to find time, and since I end up doing this outside, I need to be careful that no random people wandering around can get flashed. I also got a 20 cu ft bottle, because I have very little storage space, but I'll run through that really fast with a lot of practicing. It will be good in the long term though, since I won't really be doing all much welding (I figure it's 45-60 minutes worth).

Regular safety glasses will block almost all UV... so I'm shocked (as I'm assuming you were wearing some sort of eye protection), but maybe if you grind enough this could happen. I wonder if tiny particles or fumes in the air could get in your eyes could cause problems too. Maybe this is why my welding helmet has a grinding mode...

How come the rpm rises so slowly (seems like it anyway) when you open the throttle? Can you explain the bottom six traces? I don't know the acronyms...

Yeah, you didn't actually enter diagnostic mode 3.

If it were a fuse then it wouldn't start at all.

Yeah, sounds like the battery is not dead, just not connected properly, has happened to me too.

So, when you have a vacuum leak it runs well, ok. So one thing it could be is it not getting enough air at idle. Check the AAC valve connection and appropriate pins on the ECU? idle adjust screw? Or it could be that the vacuum leak just causes it to increase in engine speed enough that you are away from your problem condition...

Ah, right, I get it now, thanks.

The vacuum on the fuel pressure regulator drops the fuel pressure when at idle. Did you plug the hose when you pulled it off? If not then you would have had a vacuum leak. Anyway, assuming you pinched the hose, this seems to indicate some kind of fuel problem. Gas in your oil means some kind of injector leak. What do you mean "still" had some gas in it? Did you have this problem before?

Sounds to me like you have an air leak somewhere near there. Try pinching the little lines, wiggling everything to see if you can get it to change the pitch (maybe have some one hold the throttle open a bit to help). Spray something around like wd40 to see if you can get the engine to rev up.

I'm not all that familiar with the R50, but I barely see any rust in that pic! You should take a look under my truck (or car...)...

So, uhh, does your fan only run when the AC is on?

Alternator complaining about getting dunked?

My 4x4 light is broken such that it is always on (broken wire). Could be your problem.

Don't really have enough information here... go back to basics, check your ignition system etc. What is this roaring noise? Find where it is coming from. My engine always makes a "roaring" noise

The description here seems to be to remove the anchor off the back of the t-bar. Presumably you could accomplish the same thing by pulling the t-bar and anchor assembly out of the front torque arm and putting it back in after rotating as appropriate.

Just oil leak. If the seal goes entirely you lose all your oil. If that happens and a friend of yours is driving and doesn't pull over when the oil light comes on then you need to replace your crankshaft (or other things) Yes, speaking from experience. edit: if you have a manual then theoretically oil could get on the clutch, which would be bad, but probably it would just drip down.