sewebster

What did you coat the frame with? Did you do anything to the inside somehow?

Would it really make that much difference if the flow through the cooler was backwards? Anyway, clearly the cooler and lines have some finite volume, so the fluid level should be lower. But maybe it's just hard to tell. You could worry about some sort of air lock I guess... but you had fluid leaking out, that is probably a good sign in a way.

You'd think the garage should be able to troubleshoot a starting problem fairly easily...

I have this gauge: gauge It is quite responsive. There isn't really any lag, so you see the needle move up and down all the time, whenever the engine speed changes. It comes with the 1/8" BSP adapter, and also has two electrical outputs, one for the gauge and one for your existing dummy light.

I have those gaskets on my truck right now. 500 km and still going strong

And don't use something that claims to be GL5 and GL4 compatible. I think you want something that is specifically GL4. A bunch of people use Redline MT90 on here, but it can be pricy.

Probably engine or trans mount? Tires could be out of balance or thrown a weight, or even a new tire could have tread separation if you are unlucky... but the dependence on throttle position sounds like it could be some sort of mount problem? Or I guess suspension where you get into some resonance condition. I'm basically just guessing at all this though. My truck doesn't shake, but my car shakes over about 90 km/h or so, but ONLY when I'm accelerating... had the tires checked, I figure it's a mount...

My friend actually was telling me that I should either leave the battery connected or disconnect both terminals and connect them together. I need to figure out where to put the ground clamp... I'm not sure exactly where will be best. I was thinking of just welding a filler rod onto the plate and clamping to that and the cutting it off when done. I have 23 thou wire and C25 gas so should be good to go there. Definitely need to do more practice before I actually hit the truck. My plan is to use a cutting wheel to cut away to as regular a shape as possible (like a rectangle) of good metal, then flap wheel down the edges to get to bare metal (no paint left etc.). Then I will cut up some scrap steel (using a muffler I exploded at the moment, the steel is in perfect shape, muffler was only on the truck like a day) to shape. Then I will tack it in place with the mig, then heat with the oxy-acetylene torch and hammer it into shape. Hopefully I will end up with only a slight overlap at the joints. Then I can lap weld the edges. I will start by doing more tacks all the way around. If it works I will lap weld the whole thing, otherwise just keep adding more tacks until it is well stitched then use filler. Hopefully the lap welds with minimal overlap will fully melt so there is no "flap" on the bottom. I figure that would be a rust magnet. I could try to grind if underneath afterwards, but I'd probably need a dremel to be able to fit in there easily, which I don't have. Most complicated thing will be dealing with the seat belt attachment. It is reinforced, and not sure if I can re-use that metal, or exactly what to put in place instead. Obviously I don't want the seatbelt falling off, but realistically it doesn't have to be THAT strong. I might replace the belt itself, because it's been sitting next to a hole in the floor which is there because it gets hot due to the muffler being below... dunno how much nylon gets heat damaged (I assume it's nylon). It seems fine, but...

Yep, I went there. I actually "splurged" on the $80 one with 4 sensors and the bigger window. So far so good...

I guess I just thought that the pads were essentially always slightly rubbing, and that this was a negligible loss for an automobile. You don't really want the pads to have to move when you hit the brakes or you will get play in the system. With no pressure in the line the pads will have nothing squeezing them into the rotor and will be infinitessimally moved by the rotor spinning around. They'll also get worn as you drive... But maybe the suction effect you are talking about is just another tiny little movement that is necessary to avoid excess rubbing, I just haven't heard of it before. Thanks for the info. Also, a seized caliper would make everything very hot, and this might hasten the death of the rubber line...

I believe the fuel line clamps actually do apply more even pressure around the hose than the standard gear clamps. They are available in all sizes if you look around enough. Whatever clamps you get I would get stainless ones.

Hmm, I never really thought of this "suction" effect before, only the pushing.

Why does a burst brake line cause the pads to overheat?

I just mean that my screw is turned such that there is no additional restriction inside the aac valve body. The screw is still there, just turned all the way in the "faster idle" direction.

Can you actually increase idle speed with the screw? My screw is fully open and it stays at 750, presumably determined by the ECU. If I close the screw I can drop the idle... but not the other way.

Ah yeah, different things. I didn't pull up the carpet over the wheel wells, could be goo under there. Yeah, my truck is black Anyway, the chipping hammer did a good job of removing it, as did a hammer and cold chisel without any freezing. It seemed fairly brittle, possibly because of age.

Interesting. Maybe there is some different stuff out there. I think mine has a small amount of black "goo" at the very rear, but then when you pull the carpet up almost the entire cargo area has a thick hard black plastic coating, not gooey at all. I'll see if I can get some pics this afternoon.

Hmm, dry ice, interesting idea. Silverton, I don't think this stuff was ever gooey after it was applied...

It's in the howto section in the garage forum.

Ugh, sounds like a good time. Yeah, it's that stuff, rust concealer.

I need to patch my floor in the cargo area. I pulled the carpet up and everything is coated in this black stuff? Anyone know the best way to remove it? Grinding it off seems messy... maybe heat and scrape?

Yup (as long as everything is working right!).

My guess is you're only getting the code because your engine is running rough and terrible and tripping the knock sensor...Umm, there is a way to fool the ecu into thinking the sensor is always good by wiring up a resistor or something. If you could do that you could check if it solves all your problems and if so then you can relocate your sensor. If not, go back to finding some other issue. Maybe someone remembers where that resistor thing was written up?

I don't think this is true. My understanding is that the sender shorts out with no pressure. This connects the wire to the block (ground) and the light comes on. If you unplug the wire, the light is off, unless the wire accidentally contacts a ground nearby (pretty much anything). I don't think this is a good design, but... Also, the wire may be in an orange/red boot thing.