sewebster

The drums should self adjust over time... just doing a flush wouldn't back them off anyway...

You have to push it down half way with the truck off and no power brakes? If so, that sounds like you still have air in the lines.

Yep. Buying a $100 electric impact wrench has been worth it so many times for me, just for this one bolt. Now if only I didn't have to keep taking it off...

I think what tungsten is trying to say is that the exhaust is a bit of a rough and dirty system, and as long as it works, it works. That said, the more mounts you have missing, the more stress you'll put on your other mounts, and they'll fail sooner as a result...

There are two similar connectors around there. One goes to a prong on the distributor, and I think the other goes to the AC compressor (or nowhere if you don't have one). Unfortunately I doubt either has anything to do with the CEL, but we can always hope!!

Ideally the viscosity would be given by the numbers...

I think the internet is 50/50 on whether anti-seize is a good idea on spark plugs. But they are probably already coated when you buy them anyway.

I just use a extension, u-joint, and regular spark plug socket.

I guess if you have a manual transmission it could possibly be leaking from there too.

Rockauto sells some carpet options for a few hundred bucks. I think you have to buy like all of it though (might help with the smell I guess

I can't remember the specifics. I would have guessed that 1/8 NPT would go in, but just be a little tighter or looser than ideal. But you should look it up in Machinery's Handbook or something to know for sure I guess. 1/8" BSP works for me, and I'd guess it would for you too, but I have no "proof" that it is correct.

In what way does your 1/8" NPT not fit? Anyway, my 1/8" BSP adapter has been working well for a while now. If you want to get one, probably the easiest is to buy some gauge kit that comes with one included. Alternatively you might be able to find something at an industrial hydraulics supplier.

Hehe, hilarious, that's it! Thanks.

Dropped my last functional alarm remote, breaking it somehow (light on it comes on, but no response from truck). Annoying since they are long since discontinued and seem to be hard to find. Ugh. Not that I really care much about the alarm, but keyless entry is nice. Making matters worse, when I close the drivers door the lock pops up, so I have to use the key every time to lock it.

Don't settle too soon in case back/neck problems crop up. They can be a pain, literally.

I think Ottawa is a lot worse than the pacific nw in the summer, but ac is always nice at some point.

can be hard to track down though! actually my truck has been good recently so I won't worry unless I have a problem again.

The idle screw on the IAC body is supposed to be set per the FSM procedure which is: idles at 700 rpm with the AAC valve harness disconnected. On mine that means the screw is backed all the way out, so there is no additional constriction inside from the screw. When you plug the connector back in the idle increases to 750 rpm. I don't think my truck (91) has an idle adjust on the ecu? Or am I blind.... hmm. Also, the FSM has a diagnostic for "unstable idle" but on my truck I did all that and my idle still isn't perfect. It could be that these trucks just aren't the best idlers. Mechanically my engine should be really good, and I've replaced basically all the sensors, but there are still a lot of "old" things in that engine bay...

Previous owner of mine screwed a cup holder into the dashboard, blocking the central vents. It's a heinous job, but at least I have somewhere to put my drinks. Still not sure on a better solution. I guess We'll see if I can deal without the central vents working well. If so I might just leave it as the damage to the dash is already done.

I just had a kid, so I'll probably be forced to use professionals more often now, but for me the biggest problem is finding someone I trust. I don't really know how to do it. Lots of people will probably try to rip you off... and maybe more than that just won't do a great job. If I'm paying $100 an hour or whatever I'd kinda like it to be at least as good as what I can do myself.

There are some flats on the cams that you can theoretically put a wrench on, but it has always slipped off for me. I find that jamming something in between the flat and the head works, like an appropriately sized bolt. Of course if you have the timing belt on, or the rear cover off (there is a bolt back there) then that works too.

I try to replace the stuff the FSM says when possible, but other times I don't really think it is necessary. You are supposed to replace the circlip at the end of the CVs every time for instance. I wasn't careful and bent one (figuring I would be just picking more up at the dealer anyway) but they had to special order it and said they never even replaced them! But try to use good judgement. There are some things you really should replace.

Yeah, first you gotta narrow it down. Does it die while it is driving, or just fail to start sometimes?

The wire comes back from the front of the truck along with the starter wiring. I believe on my truck it initially came with a big red boot on it. If you were losing all your oil probably the sequence would be that everything would operate normally until you basically ran out of oil. At this point your pump would start sucking air and the oil pressure would drop and the light would come on. If you kept driving (like if the light was unplugged) then you would get engine damage. Get an oil pressure gauge on your next setup, gives peace of mind, and a second line of defense against oil problems.

My guess is that the device in the fuel tank varies a resistance as the fuel level changes. This, combined with the 8V from the regulator moves the gauge a certain amount. But I could be wrong. Should be in the FSM...