sewebster

I'm guessing the OEM lifters would be good, but during this procedure would be a good time to check the measurements on the new lifters and the lifter guides. The specs and tolerances are in the FSM. Some people, me included, have had problems with new aftermarket lifters being oversize and jamming. You could also inspect your rocker shafts and rockers. Again, specs in the FSM. Before installing the lifters, make sure they are all "hard" which means when you push down on the top with a fair amount of force, they don't collapse. If they are spongy and easy to push down then the oil inside has leaked out. Some people say you should soak the lifters submerged in oil for a few days before installation, but I don't think this makes any difference personally. If the oil has leaked out it probably won't go back in just soaking (no way for the air to escape). Note that the lifters should be stored upright or submerged in oil at all times (again this is in the FSM), to prevent the oil from leaking out. You might want to rotate the engine around a few times by hand see how the lifters move around etc. after installation. Apply engine assembly lube to all contact surfaces during installation. The procedure for break in I've heard is to start the truck, immediately rev to 2000 rpm and sit there for a while, at least 5 mins, then increase to 3000 rpm and sit there for 5 mins, then rev up and down between 2k and 3k rpm or so. I'm not personally sure how much difference this makes, but it doesn't sound like a bad idea. It will ensure good oil flow to the lifters and 2000 rpm is not so high that cold and thick oil would be a problem. Shrug... those are my thoughts. I replaced my lifters and I almost regret it Some of the new ones tap on startup, and I think they should not when new. Perhaps they have some air in them, or are somehow slightly damaged such that oil easily leaks out when the engine is off. Kinda makes me want non-hydraulic lifters where I adjust the valve lash myself occasionally. Good luck!

You want to tighten the rocker assembly when there is no force on it from the springs. This means doing it when the camshaft in question is oriented to accomplish that. I forget which side is which, but one side as no tension at 1TDC and the other at 4TDC. Should be obvious when you do it.

Are you talking about the centerlink? You can get the upgraded one from grassroots4x4 for less than that, or a regular centerlink is $150 on rockauto... The ball joints are part of the link itself and can't be replaced separately that I know of.

The proper fuel pressure is listed in the factory service manual, which you can download. The link is posted in a sticky this garage section.

I have some kind of fancier NGKs in my truck. I think they are g-power... they seem to work. Maybe my occasional miss at idle is due to them, but I doubt it. I will probably just try to buy the manual spec ones next time, but mostly because they are cheaper. My plugs were supposed to be gapped correctly when I bought them, but they weren't. I found that fairly disappointing. Seen a lot of bad QC in auto parts recently...

If you don't want that fancy adapter, you can make your own for under $10 with a BSPT to NPT adapter and a tee. The electronic pressure sender I bought (one of the iequus ones) has two outputs, one for the pressure, and one for the light, so you don't have to hook up your factory sender. It also came with the adapter, so I didn't need to use my adapter/tee at all. No oil temp though. Was about $50. No longer available on JC Whitney where I bought it, so I can't send a link, sorry.

Hard to use the claw when you can't see anything though, but one of the two should do the trick...

By the way, I'm talking about what to put on the threads that go into the head. You should put anti seize on the outside threads when you put the nuts on.

You should be able to just thread the studs in by hand. I guess you have a couple options of what to put on the threads: nothing, anti-seize, high temp loctite. Depends on your mood What do your washers look like? I think the OEM ones have the narrow side out.

So what was making the clunk sound and causing the play in the wheels?

Did you hear back from the garage yet?

The front driveshaft either spins at the same speed as the rear driveshaft or not at all. Individual wheels can spin at various speeds due to the open differentials.

20000 miles is more than 4 years for me

If you jack up the truck, can you wiggle the wheel? Sounds dangerous.

I'm actually surprised the solenoids are so small considering they have to be able to handle hundreds of amps. This is just a random side comment. As for cranking faster with it jumped... could be that you have a battery problem, but if you had both batteries hooked up at the same time (you just put the jumpers on the PF battery terminals) then it might just be because you were getting less voltage drop since you were spreading the load between the two batteries. Try disconnecting the PF battery from the system and starting just from the Sentra battery.

That is my understanding. In some sense this is just a "bigger relay mod" where instead of using a small relay to "amplify" the signal to the nissan solenoid, you just use another solenoid as a "big relay" to "amplify" the signal to the starter.

You want the wire from the OUTPUT of the ford solenoid to go to the terminal on the starter that is labelled for the main OUTPUT of the stock solenoid (and then a jumper from there to stock solenoid to get it to push the pinion out). Not sure if that is what your diagram is saying... because it seems to be connecting to a terminal on the starter labelled "batt" which would usually, I think, be the INPUT to the stock solenoid, which is wrong.

I think the "severe service" maintenance schedule recommends 6k oil change intervals (or 3 months, whichever comes first). So it's probably not so bad Oh wait, it's 6k KM. Slight difference

Probably basically all of the aftermarket gauges will work, with the appropriate adapter (some kits come with it). I would recommend an electronic gauge to reduce chance of oil leakage. I really wouldn't want to be driving along and suddenly have hot oil spray in my face, but perhaps that is unlikely

My take on what likely happened: they felt play in the wheels (this is not good) then took a look around and saw a whole ton of old components. Then gave you a quote to replace the entire front end. Probably $1000 isn't even SO bad of a price from a shop to replace all the parts (of course I haven't seen your quote). BUT probably the play is coming from one thing in particular, I'm guessing either ball joints or wheel bearings, but I think ball joints are more likely on this truck. Possibly you have only one bad ball joint on the truck. That's like $20 and 30 minutes to fix. But quite possibly you could get everything feeling a lot better etc., by giving your front end a review and replace what it needs. If you can do it yourself and buy parts online or somewhere inexpensive it doesn't have to be that bad. If you need bearings and need them pressed in, just take the hubs somewhere and have it done rather than paying someone to take your wheels off etc.

Could be the starter, but if you have resistance somewhere in the wires it will decrease the current to the starter, making it turn slowly.

Sorry for the dumb question, but how do drivelines still work without the slip yoke? Don't you need that motion to allow the suspension to travel? Couldn't find an easy answer on the web!

I don't know about the door jam label, but in the engine compartment, on the passenger side, near the back, there should be an info plate. Look for "HG43" or "HG46" the 43 refers to a 4.3:1 gear ratio in the diff and the 46 to 4.6:1 you want to get the same as you already have because the front diff also has that ratio.

What if your hood was open?

Could be in case of lightning strike...