lint

Got a new windshield installed, which was good because the old one was almost cracked in half.

Go to Princess Auto (Coquitlam), Summit Tools Burnaby, or even better, KMS Tools (by Ikea, Coquitlam). Look around, compare models, prices. It is always better to buy "name brand" or quality tools rather than "cheep" tools based on price.

Hey, so I don't have DRLs 'cause it was originally a US truck (moved here in '96). I see your point, but can't you bypass the DRL module?

Rolled past 200,000 km. I'm half way there!

Same thing happened to me last month. I checked the access panel first and all was good. Then I pulled the tank guard off & discovered my tank was leaking at the bottom. It seems that the spot welds on the bottom of the tank had weakened and it was leaking from there. Some gas tank repair putty (~ 5.00) and the leak was gone.

Sloppy steering? This is from Mr. Jim... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28544

oh, that was here.... http://www.motoiq.com/projects/project_nissan_pathfinder.aspx

Let me know what model your magnaflow is (& cat if you get one) as I need to replace mine next month

For headlights: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4945 or you may want to to do a HB swap out (but I don't know where that thread is). I put on an external B&M stacked plate trans cooler (bypassed the factory cooler in the rad) on mine & a gauge. Haven't done an electric fan yet, but I might this summer. The changes I have made gave me results that were positive. In my books, everything is gold.

Oh the drama! So my wagon is handling like a frickin' drunk fish again. I get under the truck with a pair of vice grips to check out the control arms. One upper on driver's side & one lower on passenger have quite a bit of twist to them. Now I know what the problem is, I can start making steps to get it sorted!

11 months (1995 SE) ! In that time, I've done a lot of work to to it (mostly maintenance issues that the PO, who was the original owner, didn't do) in it's 175,000 km life when I got it. This year I put on 25,000 km, and really love this super reliable vehicle (knock on wood). It is our dd and I want it to last us at least the next 8 years and at the rate I drive, that should bring us to 400,000 km. The only issue I have is with the frame, and this summer I'll be addressing that. This is a very easy vehicle to work on yourself, parts are available and fairly inexpensive. This is our 5th vehicle and our 1st Nissan. These wagons are very capable to any situation they are put in & I'm really glad we got one!

I got tired of looking at my rusting spare tire carrier

Yep, that's the one I bought. I don't like fusible links though when it comes to headlights. I'd rather have a fuse to blow (and have a spare to replace it with) than have fusible links leave me in the dark & no way to repair them on the side of the road... So, two months later...have you installed it yet??

Installed new rear stabilizer bar bushings. Then went for a drive and made some fast moves.

So, the upper & lower links had a very, very small amount of twist to them. The pan hard rod was tight & the bushings for the rear sway (stabilizer) bar looked good. On a whim (and with a spare $18.00 in my pocket) I swapped out the rear sway bar bushings. I figured that if I was gonna start swapping out parts to chase this problem down, I might as well start with the cheapest things! Right?? Anyway that seems to have been the problem. The ride is much better, I'm not saying it's perfect, cause it ain't, but it's better. I'm planning on my next trip to the u-pick JY to get the upper, lower links & panhard bar. This way I can swap those out & replace the bushings if I have to at my leisure and not be without a ride for more than a few hours.

Fixed the leak in the gas tank. It was on the bottom, passenger side, from one of the 6 spot welds. I guess there is something welded inside of the tank, like some anti-frothing baffle and it is starting to break free. Now I need a beverage.....

Realized my gas tank has a leak

I've been posting on a similar thing lately. People have been helping me out. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29878

I think we are on the same page here Kingman. I was under there yesterday and everything looked right. Then again, I didn't have it on a hoist with the suspension unloaded. So the weight of the truck on the suspension could have played a role in that. When you say rear trailing arm, is that the same as the rear stabilizer (sway) bar? My parts diagram lists: stabilizer bar, upper & lower links, & panhard rod.

Copy that guys. Before I go & adjust the T-bars, I'll ensure measurements are made at the recommended points. No BL or SL on this one. Also noticed that when I downshift (automatic) hard, I get the similar feeling of the back end torque to the passenger side. I guess it is a bushing somewhere.. I'm off to investigate.

So....I see the rear stabilizer bar has bushings like the front one...maybe I'll start here. But what about the stabilizer bar connecting rods...would they have anything to do with the ride quality? What do the upper & lower links do? And what does the panhard rod do? I see that the panhard rod and the links all have bushings. Do those wear out? I only have 200,000 km (115,000 miles) on 'er. Thanks for replying...I appreciate it!

31 x 10.5 @ 32 psi.

This is hard to explain, but my '95 SE handles a little "funny". Going over expansion joints on a bridge, when the rear crosses, I feel a hard jolt in my seat and it seems like the truck "skips" a little to the right. Almost like the axles is crooked.. She's never been abused or in an accident. I've replaced front suspension bushings, all shocks, rear springs and all tires. Frame is intact and rust is minimal. The driver's side torsion bar is a little lower (1/2") than the passenger measuring off the front fenders. Do you think this could be the problem or the rear suspension bushings? Talking about the rear suspension bushing, I have access to an hydraulic press. Should I just buy the bushings or the assembly? Your thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!

Re: Your alarm light. My '95 w/ factory alarm has two (2) switches. The first is down by the driver's left foot, and the other is down by the driver's right foot. One of them controls the remote starter, and the other controls the alarm. Maybe you haven't found the other switch yet??

Re: your tire carrier. Do what Precise said. The needle point for a grease gun is about 3 bucks here in Canada so it should only cost you about 2 which is far cheaper than repairing bodywork. Dielectic grease is for electrical stuff (spark plug boots, ect) and is not the HD stuff you want protecting the tire carrier bushings. If you can get the needle point, then beg / borrow / buy a grease gun and do it up right. A Q-tip won't.