lint

Maybe it's this? Technical Service Bulletins Date: 02/15/2000 Component Name: 020000 SUSPENSION NHTSA #: NTB99074 SUMMARY: SOME VEHICLES BUILT BEFORE JN8AR07S4XW350146 AND EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION MAY EXHIBIT A CLUNK NOISE FROM THE REAR END OF THE VEHICLE WHEN STOPPING. *TT

Yeah yeah, off to the JY today....there is no way in hell I will pay 73 for lug nuts! My tranny cooler didn't even cost that much! I'll look for some Jeep GC coils too while I'm there...

Thanks for this link! The yokel shop here wants 73.00 for a set of 24. eeesh!

I can't do math, there's too many numbers....

you guys rock! Thanks so much for your help, that would've taken me at least a day to figure out! Now I can go wrench on other stuff.

I've got a line on some ugly and cheap OEM steelies for my winter set....maybe that might be the route to go instead of the Toyota rims I was originally considering. If I go to 16" from the original 15" how does that affect my gearing? Clearance? Anything else I need to consider? Pros and cons are welcome. Thanks for your opinions!

How fast do you drive on the hi-way?

Well.... if they were binding, your rims would be hot to the touch after a drive. There would be quite a bit of brake dust generated which, if you hosed off with a gentle stream of water would show up as blackish particles in the water. You may also be able to smell them burning...but that depends on the compounds and the degree of binding. Just remember; before you go poking around your brakes the compound dust is usually very harmful to your health, and can cause cancer. I always rinse my brakes down with water before I work on them to remove the dust.

LMAO with this thread! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Your original post: "hi guys what is the differance between 2wd + 4wd front fenders?? " My opinion is: "I can't see a difference, can you see a difference?"

Yer messin' with my brain man!

Check your brakes, maybe they are binding or seizing up on the sliding pins. There is a thread on a service for the sliding pins here, somewhere, but I can't find it at the moment.

Sorry to hear about it, that sucks! I'm keeping an eye out for it in Kamloops and area.

Nunya, Thanks!!! Those are the rims! That was exactly the info I was looking for. Too bad the Toyotas use a different thread pitch (12mm x 1.5) on their studs from Nissan (12mm x 1.25)...bummer. ....well, wish me luck trying to find a "top hat" lug nut with a Nissan pitch. I still have time before the snow starts to fly.

Yeah, yeah, the ali "4 spoke" ones from 86-94 truck. Maybe I'd be good to go if I got a different taper lug nut?

Howdy! In searching through the forums, I haven't found the answer regarding running 15" Toyota rims on my '95 SE. The OEM Legos (with 31x10.5x15) are 15x7 JJ & have a backspacing (to tyre) of 6" and backspacing (to rim) of 5" with an offset of 25. I just got a set of 4 toyota rims on a good deal. The Toyota rims (with 31x10.5x15) are 15x7JJ & have a backspacing (to tyre) of 5.5" and backspacing (to rim) of 4 3/8" with an offset of 8. With the legos mounted, 1/2" of the stud threads are available. With the Toyota rims, only 3/8" of the stud threads are available. I know some of you (Silverton?) run 'yota rims...do you think that only having 3/8" is a problem with keeping the rims on? It looks like the tyres will fit right and w/o clearance issues. I got these rims cheap with the intention of running my winters on, but wouldn't feel bad about selling them off if any of you think that I should. Cheers, Lint Just found this out: Minimum thread engagement must be equal to the thread diameter of the wheel stud or lug bolt.

I had something like that happen to me. As it turned out the tailpipe was separating from the muffler. Why the sound happened at slow speeds is beyond me!

Well, I too think it is too much. FYI, I had to spend 900 for parts for a tune-up which included: plugs, dizzy, rotor, fuel + air filters) pcv, oil press sender, coolant sender, shocks, AT cooler, AT temp gauge, ALL fluids (oil, at, brake, front + rear diff, transfer case, coolant) and f + r shocks. (I do my own work). Wait, and look for a 4wd. I paid 2200 for a 95 SE w/ 112k miles and with recent timing belt, w-pump and exhaust manifold studs replaced (and that was a 1400 bill from the shop!). The tires are nokians and are good for another 3 summers. So really...the guy got 800 bucks for it...... My advice: search out the craigslist daily for your city and others nearby. Don't worry about the "book value" because, really, it is a buyer's market when it comes to used vehicles. A lot of people just need / want to sell their old rides. Good luck, they are awesome trucks! d

26 ?

Seems like you blew your meatcleaver. I hope you picked it up, 'cause those original factory ones are gonna cost you!

' Yeah, Well, I'm new to Pathfinders as I only got my '95 SE a few months ago, but I gotta tell ya, I hate the steering (as opposed to my lowered mk2 Jetta). I've replaced f&r shocks. I noticed that mount too on the CL, and saw the steering damper listed in both the FSM and in my Haynes manual (came with), ended up searching NPORA and found myself here. The land of information, hehe... Was wondering if that was an option or standard equipment? Think that I'll source out a damper and mount that and see if there's a difference. The CL and tie rods seem good.

Yah, the jokers that wired up the PO's aftermarket stereo, did some funky business that I had to sort out. Basically, it was always powered, no matter what the key position was, even though the stereo wouldn't turn on w/o the key in the acc position. ??? yeah, funky like I said... so, followed the Guru's advice and wired it into the ciggy lighter. Happy days. Thanks to all who chimed in!

Hey Precise, Did you tap into the dimmer circuit so that your gauge light dims along with your other lights? If so, how'd / where'd you do dat? Thanks, Lint

copy that. Thanks!

Disconnected it for the night...want the truck to be there in the am!