lint

' Yeah, Well, I'm new to Pathfinders as I only got my '95 SE a few months ago, but I gotta tell ya, I hate the steering (as opposed to my lowered mk2 Jetta). I've replaced f&r shocks. I noticed that mount too on the CL, and saw the steering damper listed in both the FSM and in my Haynes manual (came with), ended up searching NPORA and found myself here. The land of information, hehe... Was wondering if that was an option or standard equipment? Think that I'll source out a damper and mount that and see if there's a difference. The CL and tie rods seem good.

Yah, the jokers that wired up the PO's aftermarket stereo, did some funky business that I had to sort out. Basically, it was always powered, no matter what the key position was, even though the stereo wouldn't turn on w/o the key in the acc position. ??? yeah, funky like I said... so, followed the Guru's advice and wired it into the ciggy lighter. Happy days. Thanks to all who chimed in!

Hey Precise, Did you tap into the dimmer circuit so that your gauge light dims along with your other lights? If so, how'd / where'd you do dat? Thanks, Lint

copy that. Thanks!

Disconnected it for the night...want the truck to be there in the am!

So, err, um...I installed my external AT cooler, and today hooked up the temp gauge, but I'm al little concerned as the terminals on the back of the gauge are quite warm to the touch... actually hot. The ground and the power wires especially. I'm using 18 gauge wire and crimp on connectors but will solder those connections tomorrow. I ran power from the fuse box for the gauge: from the stereo fuse. The ground is running to the frame. Just wondering is the heat is normal, or am I gonna have a problem here?

Sorted! Wire brushed off the loose rust, and two treatments of Rust-Mort with a rinse after each, then a coat of Plastic-Kote's "Rust Not" in glossy black. Now, a good 20 hours later, my frame on the '95 Pathy is happy! I found a rust through the size of a quarter and will weld on a patch after the summer is over. I don't want to use an undercoating, because I want to keep an eye on the rust situation and not hide it from evaluation. Thanks for your advice folks, it helped....and this project is almost finished!

I'm pretty sure it's a conversation starter.

Put your hose into the holes the size of a nickle on the side of your frame. The water and crud will drain out from underneath your vehicle, from the drain holes. Enjoy.

So, I have some surface rust developing on my frame. I treated with rust-mort (kinda like POR 15) and I am wondering if I should paint (with tremclad) or undercoat it. If undercoating, should I use wax-based or bitumen-based? Thanks.

BRILLIANT!

I was installing new shocks today, and on a break I decided to look at the rear frame on my recently purchased (1.5 months ago) '95 Pathy. I was recalling a thread that mentioned keeping your drain (weep) holes clear in the frame to avoid the rust, so I went to check on them. HOLY @#$%! Looking behind the rear wheels, I saw this fine silty sand plugging my drain holes. So I grabbed my garden hose, threw on a nozzle and blasted water into those holes until they ran clear. I then looked under the passenger seats and found more drain holes and blasted those too, and under the driver's and co-pilot's seats as well. Then I did the whole thing over again 2 more times. Honestly, I'm gonna sweep up the mud when it dries tomorrow and weigh it. I cannot believe how much crap was inside of my frame. Another part of my maintenance program is to now flush the frame in spring and fall. I urge all of you to do it. Even if they look clean, you can stick your little finger in the drain hole, and feel if there is dirt inside. Flushing your frame keeps your ride happy.

Yeah, I read that, but I don't like messin' with 'puters. I mean, what would I do if it developed a binary leak?? I'd rather spend the $$ and enjoy the process. Under the truck; with a beer.

Great advice Silverton. I don't want to be dangerous or stupid! I'll go 'lectric. Precise: your work is super clean and that gauge location rocks! That post is what got me thinking about adding the gauge in the 1st place. Drilling and tapping for the cap screws...that was for ground correct? Do you think I could just use JB weld and goober a connector on instead and run that to ground? I don't have a drill press and my hands aren't all that steady.... Any other ideas for grounding?

Your input is valued! I installed a stacked plate B&M trans cooler on my '95 SE and bypassed the stock trans cooler in the radiator. Now I would like to know what the temperature of the AT fluid is. Which is better, a mechanical or an electric gauge? Which is better: Autometer or B&M gauges? What do you run? Please include model numbers (if you recall details like that) to help make informed decisions. Thanks!!!!!

My '95 SE automatic (180, 000 km or 112,000 miles) with roof racks and 31" tires @ 35 psi is getting 11.2 l/100 km which is 21 MPG (US gallon) or 25 MPG (Imperial gallon) on the highway at 115 km/h or 70 mph. This was calculated after a 300 km (180 mile) trip. Recently tuned up with new plugs, filters (air and fuel), dizzy + rotor, oil change, trans fluid change, & external trans cooler). Running regular unleaded gazolene. Hope this helps.

My 95 SE has an orange LSD sticker on it, tuneable suspension, fender flares. Then I rocked out & painted my chrome bumpers black.