lint

Removed the dulled polycarbonate factory headlight protectors and stuck on some "Ricochet" clear headlight protection on them and on the fogs. Need to polish out the scratches on the poly covers and reinstall. Around here, they use freakin' shale or something like that for gravelling the roads and I end up replacing a windshield every year. I can't afford to replace headlights at that rate. Maybe I should tell the Ministry of Highways that there is a product out there called "sand"....

That is so damn clever! Thanks for sharing!!

Yeah, I get your point. I said to the dealer guy "filter" , so I understand now what he was thinking. Ok, I'm sorry I thought he was an idiot for the last few hours. IMHO, now I think he's a genius (if that helps ) So Precise, do you think that the "screen" should be changed out or should I just do an inline aftermarket filter like your write-up? I don't have any problems with my transmission (other than a hard shift into 2nd when cold) and I only have 115,000 miles on 'er with 3 trans-fluid changes. That said, my SE was lightly used in the past, but I have no intention with keeping on in that tradition!

Yeah, that's what I thought....just had to be sure. Thanks!

Hi, I've been wondering about automatic transmission filters. My truck has had (somewhat) regular trans fluid changes and I added an external cooler, gauge and bypassed the stock cooler. I have a '94.5 SE and when I was buying the fluid for a change, I asked my local dealer if they had tranny filter kit since I was changing the fluid. He told me that on my truck it didn't need to be changed, and there was no filter kit. Is this true? Because I've seen them online and have read a write-up about it, but maybe that was for a different year from mine? If I added an inline filter (like B is doing) shouldn't I first change the one (if there is one) inside the tranny first?

Def Iphone Can't wait till they make an OBD2 app so I can make diagnostics with my phone... Hold on! Didn't they already do that???

1) Dim Headlights: This is the thread you want. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4945 2) LEDs in the headlights: -Not a good idea. LEDs don't like heat, the WD21 runs 9004 halogen bulbs, these bulbs create heat. -LEDs don't "throw" the light any meaningful distance (yet), and won't light up the road for you. -LEDs look brighter when you look at them, as a receiver of the light. This means that they are easier to see (from a distance) but don't project the light as far as a "regular" headlamp bulb. 3) Put a quality 9 led 168 (T-10) bulb in the side marker. I did that, it is super bright and it just, just fits in. Turn power OFF when installing! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-194-168-501-T10-9-SMD-White-5050-LED-Car-Light-Bulb-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588c5fcb2fQQitemZ380312210223QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3228wt_980 Now, on my vintage bikes, I HAVE run LEDs in the headlights, because when you are dealing with a 50 year old, 6 volt, non-battery machine you really, really want the other drivers to see you! With a WD21, you should relay the headlights before you install fancy bulbs.

I agree with Piste. I've put close to 2000 into mine in just parts alone. I can't imagine what it would cost for someone to do it! These parts are (mostly) maintenance items (brakes, rotors, shocks, springs, tranny cooler, fluid changes, major tune up components, lighting and small oddities. I have found that with the help of this forum and a set of totally basic hand tools, the work is surprisingly easy....simple almost! That said, I am planning on getting at least 8 more years out of it, and my cost of ownership.... will be under 50.00/month for the vehicle. Plus gas. Don't forget the gas. All in, this is a great vehicle for a 17 year old to learn how to wrench on. If he doesn't want the rig, you could always donate it to your local high school auto program. They probably would issue a tax deductable receipt (they do in Canada). Or, sell it and get him something that he is more interested in.

Honestly, I don't have that problem. No DRLs. My '95 is originally from Nevada. Were DRLs mandatory here in '95? I always drive with my lights on, and here, we don't have yearly vehicle inspections. Lucky me! One thing (oddly enough) that I discovered is this. When I first got the 'finder, the driver side lo beam didn't work (classic p-finder!). Bad ground I thought, so I cut the driver's socket ground (black wire) and rewired it to the frame. This caused the driver's light to come on WHEN I RELEASED THE PARKING BRAKE! Lights behaved normally when ignition was off, or when idling, but as soon as that p-brake hit the switch, the drivers light came on. Suggestion: Cut both sockets' ground and rewire to frame, perhaps then, when you release the p-brake, both will come on and you will have DRLs. However, I am NOT positive about this. If you get that premade harness, it just plugs into your passenger socket. Since that is now grounded to the frame, you have switched power and your DRLS will work. I think you just have to have lights come on automatically, not specifically hi-beams @ 1/2 power. Try it, & let us know.

Just installed the relay set-up and without a doubt, there is a huge improvement even with stock 65/45 bulbs. The stock lighting on my rig was really terrible and I dreaded driving at night on the highways because it was so difficult to see. Even my wife would comment on whether the headlights were on on not, and then she would start panicking...definitely NOT a good scene! I bought a "plug & play" prebuilt harness like the lads above from ebay (search "9004 Hi-Low Headlight Wire Harness Kit"). I like this kit because it is easy to install (1 hour outside), I do not have to cut any wires (and is therefore transportable to another vehicle when mine rusts away) and it retained the on/off function I had with the factory fogs with the hi/lo beams. This kit was cheap (only 25 bucks + shipping!) and it was comparable in price to me buying all the components, wires, and connectors and then wiring it up myself. The relays bolted up to the passenger fender right beside a bunch of other relays. It is super tidy! The "Hi-Beam" indicator still works. To make it better, I added 2 inline fuses just after the battery connection. I strongly suggest that if you buy this kit you make the socket ground wires longer by about 3 inches. That way you won't have to disconnect the ground wire when you go to replace the bulbs in the future. The 4 pin relays are difficult to find, and IMO, of dubious quality. I plan on replacing them with quality Bosch Relays soon. Q: Does anyone know where I would find the dimensions so I can ensure my headlights are properly aimed?

Added relays for the front headlights to improve the lighting: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4945

Easy there....this isn't that kind of forum

Good question! You can go to the "Garage" and find it under "How To". This is the area you want: http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?showforum=28 I just pulled the code on mine. I suggest you watch the video....

Today: Pulled the codes from the ECU (great write up btw, but I had to watch the video to fully understand what "flashing 3 times" really meant! ) Only had code 55. Nice! Now I'm working on adding relays for the headlights.

New alty, PS & AC belts. Whoo-hooo!

That is really weird. I just came in from doing my rear brakes and rotors. Guess what, I had a seized upper slide pin on the rear passenger caliper too! I just beat on it with a deadblow hammer and then worked it back and forth...I do a better job on it when the warmer weather arrives. Good luck with it!

Working from the inside out...the secret is layers Polypropelene base layer underwear that wicks away moisture long underwear Thin wool socks (your boots will keep your feet warm) Long sleeved thin turtle neck Thin fleece top Neck tube or bandanna or scarf to cover your face Touque Goggles Gloves (mitts if it is really cold) Snow pants Wind breaker Chap stick Winter tires have fun!!!

@ adamzan: could you tell us what that black stuff is?

More info is found here. I found it to be a good write up and it could save someone from reinventing the wheel. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Headlights.shtml

Cool! Thanks for the info 510, I didn't know about that!

Then that isn't powdercoat!

COOL! I made a couple ike the first 2, but they were made out of wood .....and weren't so shiny. The last one is wicked! Well done!!

Thanks for the advice Adamzan, I snugged up the belt a touch and gave it some mustard.

'95 SE with ~120k miles. Belt tension is good and the belts while a couple years old, have ~15k miles on them. Ever since the recent cold, when I'm idling, and I add a load by turning on the lights, or fan I hear a squeal that sounds like a bad bearing. I noticed that when I remove the load the squeal goes away. I'll try dressing the belts tomorrow. Do you think the alternator bearings or alternator is going? Weather is getting really nasty here, if it is the alty, how long do you think I've got? The output is a steady 14.4v. Cheers, d

Weak gas struts on a tailgate, rear hatch, front hood??? I put a zap-strap (zip-tie) around each chrome piston. Usually it adds just enough resistance so the weight doesn't come crashing down on my head. Much, much better than propping it up with a hockey stick or something! (Then again, you never know when you're gonna need a hockey stick