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lint

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Everything posted by lint

  1. So, err, um...I installed my external AT cooler, and today hooked up the temp gauge, but I'm al little concerned as the terminals on the back of the gauge are quite warm to the touch... actually hot. The ground and the power wires especially. I'm using 18 gauge wire and crimp on connectors but will solder those connections tomorrow. I ran power from the fuse box for the gauge: from the stereo fuse. The ground is running to the frame. Just wondering is the heat is normal, or am I gonna have a problem here?
  2. Sorted! Wire brushed off the loose rust, and two treatments of Rust-Mort with a rinse after each, then a coat of Plastic-Kote's "Rust Not" in glossy black. Now, a good 20 hours later, my frame on the '95 Pathy is happy! I found a rust through the size of a quarter and will weld on a patch after the summer is over. I don't want to use an undercoating, because I want to keep an eye on the rust situation and not hide it from evaluation. Thanks for your advice folks, it helped....and this project is almost finished!
  3. I'm pretty sure it's a conversation starter.
  4. Put your hose into the holes the size of a nickle on the side of your frame. The water and crud will drain out from underneath your vehicle, from the drain holes. Enjoy.
  5. So, I have some surface rust developing on my frame. I treated with rust-mort (kinda like POR 15) and I am wondering if I should paint (with tremclad) or undercoat it. If undercoating, should I use wax-based or bitumen-based? Thanks.
  6. I was installing new shocks today, and on a break I decided to look at the rear frame on my recently purchased (1.5 months ago) '95 Pathy. I was recalling a thread that mentioned keeping your drain (weep) holes clear in the frame to avoid the rust, so I went to check on them. HOLY @#$%! Looking behind the rear wheels, I saw this fine silty sand plugging my drain holes. So I grabbed my garden hose, threw on a nozzle and blasted water into those holes until they ran clear. I then looked under the passenger seats and found more drain holes and blasted those too, and under the driver's and co-pilot's seats as well. Then I did the whole thing over again 2 more times. Honestly, I'm gonna sweep up the mud when it dries tomorrow and weigh it. I cannot believe how much crap was inside of my frame. Another part of my maintenance program is to now flush the frame in spring and fall. I urge all of you to do it. Even if they look clean, you can stick your little finger in the drain hole, and feel if there is dirt inside. Flushing your frame keeps your ride happy.
  7. Yeah, I read that, but I don't like messin' with 'puters. I mean, what would I do if it developed a binary leak?? I'd rather spend the $$ and enjoy the process. Under the truck; with a beer.
  8. Great advice Silverton. I don't want to be dangerous or stupid! I'll go 'lectric. Precise: your work is super clean and that gauge location rocks! That post is what got me thinking about adding the gauge in the 1st place. Drilling and tapping for the cap screws...that was for ground correct? Do you think I could just use JB weld and goober a connector on instead and run that to ground? I don't have a drill press and my hands aren't all that steady.... Any other ideas for grounding?
  9. Your input is valued! I installed a stacked plate B&M trans cooler on my '95 SE and bypassed the stock trans cooler in the radiator. Now I would like to know what the temperature of the AT fluid is. Which is better, a mechanical or an electric gauge? Which is better: Autometer or B&M gauges? What do you run? Please include model numbers (if you recall details like that) to help make informed decisions. Thanks!!!!!
  10. My '95 SE automatic (180, 000 km or 112,000 miles) with roof racks and 31" tires @ 35 psi is getting 11.2 l/100 km which is 21 MPG (US gallon) or 25 MPG (Imperial gallon) on the highway at 115 km/h or 70 mph. This was calculated after a 300 km (180 mile) trip. Recently tuned up with new plugs, filters (air and fuel), dizzy + rotor, oil change, trans fluid change, & external trans cooler). Running regular unleaded gazolene. Hope this helps.
  11. My 95 SE has an orange LSD sticker on it, tuneable suspension, fender flares. Then I rocked out & painted my chrome bumpers black.
  12. Hey there, New to this forum, 4wd, and Pathfinders. Just moved to the interior of BC, and the weather along with the mountains "suggested" we get a different vehicle. I picked up a 95 SE with automatic (for me wife) and 175 km on the clock and a recent timing belt change for 2200 cdn. Body and interior are great, and the rear frame rails, while intact, are starting to show some ravages, but I'll get to that. Currently attending to what is most urgent. I've changed the oil, filter, air, plugs, oil pressure sender, coolant temp sender (gauge still doesn't read properly), fuel filter, and rear shocks (KYB gas- ajust), and am soon doing the front ones. Just changed the trans fluid (drain and fill) and will install the aux trans cooler and bypass the factory one this week. Fuel economy is 12.5 l/100 hwy running on 31x10.5 and those deadweight rims. I think the timing needs attending to. Would like to change out the rear springs for something firmer....any suggestions? I tow a light trailer with a couple of vintage scooters ~ 1000 lbs total. Your forum is great and there is a ton of info / expertise here to help each other out. I use this forum to help me make "educated" decisions on what parts to install, and what procedures to follow. Just want to say thanks to all of you who contribute your time and knowledge. So far, the 'finder is changing from a "good deal" to an awesome machine. I'm really liking it! I'm not much of an off roader, but we do like hiking, so this could be a good fit for us. you're a good bunch. Cheers, Lint
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