lint

I ran some through the tank in the fall, and put some in the engine with the oil - ran it for ~ 200 miles and then did an oil change. So, I guess I'm good?

sorry...so many threads...what's the reason for doing this?? Seafoam through the vacuum line ... to clean what exactly?

Exact same thing happened to me when I was changing out my shocks. 3 were super easy, and then Driver's Front started doing what yours did. I used heat (MAPP gas) and my biggest hammer. Sorted!

Interesting!!!! Can we see a pic of where / how you mounted those?

Same thing happened to my '95 SE Automatic (No hi beam / driver's side). Initially, I cut the driver's side headlight pigtail Ground and made a new ground to the frame. This solved the problem, however it had a really weird glitch.... If the truck was started with the E-brake on, the diver's headlight wouldn't go on UNTIL I released the e-brake. After a month of that, I just relayed the lights, with the harness plugging into the passenger pigtail. Perfect result!

x2 on the welcome! x2 on the relays....a huge improvement! Have fun w/ your new ride.

Glad everyone's safe. How many miles were on the tire?

You'll go blind.

(Yesterday actually) Changed out the O2 sensor just before getting 5" of snow. Going out on the logging roads today to get some more firewood.

x2

Found an large, empty, and freshly iced parking lot.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

lint, on 31 December 2011 - 12:52 PM, said: ... and people wonder why their drain plugs are rounded off Actually, I use that method of shocking a stuck fastener loose quite regularly. It was his technique of "One foot holds the rachet/ extion in the plug and the other boots it" that I commented on. This along with the fact that one shouldn't shock load a ratchet due to potential damage to the ratcheting mechanism (instead use a breaker bar), and the fact that the 1/2" drive isn't the proper tool of the job because of it's loose fit in the drain plug; instead one should use the specific drain plug adapter that someone linked to in an earlier post led me to scratch me 'ead. Guess you didn't get that?

... and people wonder why their drain plugs are rounded off

Yeah, that's basically what I got. That's a good price!

Yeah, when I did mine, I started off with a 1/2" breaker bar, but when it started to round off the drain plug I went & spent some $$ on the proper drain plug extension (they fit tighter and have nice crisp edges). It cost me some 'cause I could only buy it in a set of weird ass drain plug tools, but I bought it anyway knowing that I would be able to remove any drain plug that comes my way for the rest of my life.

Fill it with oil, drive and forget about it for now. Deal with it during your next oil change. After all, plastic is a petroleum product. That plastic cap won't clog anything once it gets all mushed up by the gears. That's what I'd do.

Yep! Well, one was on its' side, but all the others were on their roofs. No BS!!

Drove it through the mountain highway passes last night. Saw 7 (yes seven!) other cars / trucks upside down on a particularly bad 50 mile stretch after they wiped out on the slick roads. We got through it fine, then my wife said "I love this truck".

Better ... since I cleaned my MAF

Mine leaked a lot of oil from the oil pressure sending unit (below where the oil filter is located). As it turned out, it was loose. I used a 1 1/16" IIRC deep socket to tighten it back up. Sorted. No leak since!

Cleaned the MAF sensor, but it really didn't need it. Checked the dizzy & rotor. They checked out good. Replaced a fog light bulb. Wanted to do more, but she's running sweet & my "to do" list has been all checked off, so I drove to the car wash & cleaned her up.

The 1157 is a dual filament bulb for running and brake lights, while the 1156 is a single filament bulb. They look very similar but are not interchangeable. A common mistake is to put an 1156 into a socket for an 1157 bulb. The 1157 bulb is keyed so it will only go into the socket one way. Note that one lock tab on the 1157 is higher than the other. This prevents it from going in wrong. Also note that the lock tabs on the 1156 are the same height so it will not go into an 1157 socket. Sometimes, one of the two prongs on the bottom of the bulb is too low. You could bend the tab inside the light socket to make a better connection, or you could solder a blob onto the bottom of the bulb to make the connection better. Hope this helps?

mmm, too spendy. Mine (95 SE, fully loaded, good tires, 108,000 miles was $2200 as a private sale). Needed a major tune-up, fluids, brakes, rotors, shocks, exhaust & bushings. Rides great now after 1500 in parts and I did all that work myself. UNLESS, like others have said, it is minty and all the major tune up stuff is fresh, you gotta beat down the price.