lint

what is "color wax"?

Looks GOOD!!! Building drawer number one... I never build drawers like that. If you have any weight at all, one good tug on the drawer front will pull it off. Better still to run a rebate, glue it up, and pin it from the sides & bottom. That'll do ya! I think I am just gonna drill some holes and knot some nylon rope for drawer pulls....any other ideas on the drawer pulls??? Drill a couple 1" holes and just use finger pulls? Cut out a shape like: -\____/- that fits your hand? Drill two 1" holes 5" apart and use a jigsaw to join them up? Kinda like this: (______) Although my 'puter only lets me make the bottom like.

Went to Princess Auto, found a pair of 5x7 speakers in their surplus section. Merta brand. Original fitment for Pathfinders to '95(so it says on the pkg...mine were Clarions). 2.99 each! I had just replaced my doors with some decent sounding component JVCs, and could hear that my rears were frapping out. Hell, for 7 bux I thought why not try 'em out? SEVEN bucks!!! ...unbelievable......

You know that with special limited editions you pay more for insurance?

http://parts.autopartsonlinecanada.com/parts/apocanada/parts.jsp?year=1995&make=NI&model=PAT-4WD-003 stockish & cheap. free shipping over 75 bux. I use them for lots of parts. Never a problem.

I put some 6.5" in the doors. All I had to do was use a grinder to remove some material from the plastic spacer, and they fit like a charm. I'll be tackling the rears next.

I'd rather have a sticker than plaque any day!

Ok, I admit that I don't know much about sound and that I'm going a bit deaf from years of concerts and nail-guns. Still, I like my tunes while driving! I've got a few questions for the sound gurus. In replacing door speakers in my '95 SE, the OEM Clarion speakers are component and are 5x7, 2.4 ohm, and max 40W nom 20W. I'm installing into the door JVC 6.5" components. 4 ohm, 270W peak, 45W rms. What does it mean that the ohm ratings different? If I put coaxials in the rear, does mixing coaxial & component speakers affect the quality of my system? reason for edit: to more clearly state the questions

Bought a set of JVC 6.5" component speakers to replace my blown 5x7 oem door speakers. Managed to install passenger side trouble free today. Tomorrow it will be driver's side. Then I'll be working on blowing out the rear speakers.

Yesterday thinking it was spring, I pulled out the sand bags from the back that I use for winter ballast. Today it's snowing....I put them back in.

$$$ are no object when it comes to my sweet ride!

YEP! There is a "split boot" that makes the job a cake walk. I used one ~ 40,000 km (30,000 miles) ago. Holding up like a charm. I think I got mine from 4x4part.com. Not sure of the price...as that was a couple of years ago. Highly suggested!!

My "Compression" Rod or "Strut" rod on both sides were as corroded as yours so I replaced them. I didn't remove the wheels, or jack up the truck and put it on stands. I just crawled under, lay on some cardboard and went to work. Good write-up!

For $80.00, I thought my tranny cooler install went super easy. Oh, and lots of people (myself included) really don't like Lucas for too many reasons for me to get into at 07:00.

Hey, what did you use for speakers? Make / Model / size? Mine just blew and I don't want to pull the door apart and THEN go shopping. I'd rather have then on hand and do a quick install. Thanks!

Got 454 kms to a tank of 60 litres which cost me $71.00. There goes my weekend bzzr $$...

Think I blew out the factory speakers up front.

Did an oil + filter change in record time: 20 mins. A personal best for me as I usually putz around & waste a ton of time.

up to 215,000 km (Feb 2012)

I ran some through the tank in the fall, and put some in the engine with the oil - ran it for ~ 200 miles and then did an oil change. So, I guess I'm good?

sorry...so many threads...what's the reason for doing this?? Seafoam through the vacuum line ... to clean what exactly?

Exact same thing happened to me when I was changing out my shocks. 3 were super easy, and then Driver's Front started doing what yours did. I used heat (MAPP gas) and my biggest hammer. Sorted!

Interesting!!!! Can we see a pic of where / how you mounted those?

Same thing happened to my '95 SE Automatic (No hi beam / driver's side). Initially, I cut the driver's side headlight pigtail Ground and made a new ground to the frame. This solved the problem, however it had a really weird glitch.... If the truck was started with the E-brake on, the diver's headlight wouldn't go on UNTIL I released the e-brake. After a month of that, I just relayed the lights, with the harness plugging into the passenger pigtail. Perfect result!