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kdj
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Everything posted by kdj
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Spoken like a true technician!
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That snout looks's like my '03. I'm going to measure it tomorrow and see how much room is actually in there. I know without the AC conderser in there would give a few more inches. Hummm maybe!
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Do what exactly? Do you mean mount a winch there?
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Are these parts the same as on the '96 Hardbody? If so I've got them as well. Free near Brockville.
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Any fool knows coat hangers are for antennas not battery hold downs. And how come you have a truck that is 24 years old looks brand new? Nice Nissan!
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They were grading my road (gravel) today so I got to play "jump the hump" for a couple of miles on the way home. Does anyone else live in the country?
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How do you properly undercoat your truck.
kdj replied to NIssanBoston's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
It should be fine. I just do the extra because I live on and do most of my driving on gravel roads, which are brutal on the under belly. If you pressure wash it now and then just check to see if it's peeling anywhere and redo it. -
Hard to tell from the photos but if it hasn't messed up the frame rails...the rest looks very fixable. Or leave it with the "don't mess with me look". Almost forgot to say sorry about the accident.
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How do you properly undercoat your truck.
kdj replied to NIssanBoston's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Being Canadian I would start with the rear wheel wells, rocker panels and around the front struts. If you find large bubbly rust, tap it and around it with a chipping hammer or such. Anything you can sand, grind or wire wheel off so much the better. Then spray with rust control then prime, rust paint and then undercoat. I mask off brake fittings, gas lines, exhaust parts, theaded ends of bolts, nuts, wiring and connectors etc. Theaded parts and such I normally just wire brush them and spray them with Tremclad rust paint to make them easier to remove later. Just remember this stuff is just temperary...you HAVE to keep redoing this if you live in the "salt zone". -
I just looked at a replacment plastic bumper cover for my '03. It cost $28.95 plus about $70.00 shipping. Can I get an ARB for that? Sign me up!
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I'm on rescue Rottie #5(Zarra). Poor #3 (Bronx) showed up after taking a Hawthorn in the left nut. The vet took them both. It brings tears to my eyes just to think about the poor old boy.
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I hate to disagree but it has wings. I think it's a mosquito hawk. Thorpe991 do you know what happened to the missing peice of hose?
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Apocalypse? Already? I still don't have my Y2K kit ready.
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It's a sacrificial anode to draw the rust to it. I don't know if they work on cars but boat outdrives use them though the water. If you what some interesting reading google "electrolytic rust removal". It's a great way to clean up rusty parts. I've tried this and it does work very well. A few tips are while washing soda (Arm and Hammer-hard to find) is recommended T.S.P. does work. Don't use stainless steel as an anode, use only a plastic tub or pail for the solution. Don't try it on tempered, spring steel, galvanized or non-ferrous metals. I could go on but look it up, I swear it works. I think www.stovebolt.com has a good article on the subject.
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They kept mine 2 extra days for "bolts". When I got it back I found a bunch that were broken off and not replaced because they weren't easy to see, including all the ones for the now rattling air box. Other things like broken brake line retainers bolts were replaced with zip ties. Make sure you inspect everything they have touched. Unfortunatly when I had mine done everything was covered with slush and ice by the time I drove it home and I didn't find all this stuff till spring.
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4x4design.com * New product - Front Skidplate- pre-order starting
kdj replied to fleurys's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Way to go Fleurys and to the first 6. I think it's great that you are not only doing this for business reasons but for the Nissan community, Now if you could stamp out some sheet metal for the R50 rear wheel well arches, I've got two trucks in need and my sister has one as well, plus I have a neighbour and.......oh well we can't have everything. Keep up the good work. Kevin -
Steve will correct me if I'm wrong but...A 1" front lift will get you two 1" spacers. A 2" lift will get you four 1" spacers.
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Not my VW... it's in the barn yard. '77 Westfalia Camper Van. Now you you know why I switched to a Pathfinder. It was nice to have room to sleep 4 adult and two kids plus having a fridge and sink etc.. But I also enjoy having a vehicle that will start and run when I want it to. Oh and heat in the winter is such a bonus.
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O.K. thanks Steve , I plan on keeping the 31"s on the stock steel rims and am planning on going with the 1" lift. I was pretty sure I'd need spacers or differant rims for 32"s because of how tight the 31's fit. Unless something goes wrong elsewhere I'll put in my order for 1" all around come spring. Is the skid plate plan going though, I haven't checked lately if you've got 6 yet?
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I bought a tool for this years ago the has several little "arms" that extend from it, you just pick the one that fits over the pin you want to remove-big round, small round, big straight or small, square etc. and it pushes in the small tab that retains it in the connector and the wire just pulls out from the rear of the plug. To reinstall it you just bend the tab back out and it will lock back into the new connector. I think I got it fron CTC for about $10. It's come in very handy over the years.
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Just as a quick question (statement) I have 31"s on my '98 and I know 32" s won't fit under the struts with stock rims. I'm planning on lifting my new (to me) '03 with your spacers next year in the spring. The spacers lift at the top so how would 32"s fit under the struts?
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My owners manual says 100 LBS. max. on the stock racks but I've worked with a sheet of 3/4" plywood layed directly on my roof tracks to use as a work platform with myself and a helper and 12' sheets of drywall plus tools, beer etc., probably at least 550 to 600 LBS. If your new rack is strong enough the rails should hold that plus lots more. More mounts will distribute the weight better. That much weight might make you a bit top heavy on the corners but then again we weren't driving while we were doing this.
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I got that a bit wrong the relay is in the block over the drivers tire and the fuse is in the block over the passengers side tire.
