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With mine I thought it was a belt but the adjuster bolt was siezed so that's why I had it all apart, which was a great time to remove all the AC stuff. Who needs AC in Canada? Cleaned up the idler and injected bearing grease into it. Quieter now than before it started squeeeling.

Sorry I didn't know they had those limits in BC, I haven't lived there in 20 years. It's 80KM in Ontario and I've had 2 dogs and a sister killed by speeders, so I'm not a big fan of it.

I will quote you "quick stop from 120 KPH". Glad you don't drive on my road..

I'd say it's NOT your belts slipping but your idler pulley squeeling. I thought I had a loose belt till I checked out the idler. When I took the pulley off it would barely turn by hand it was so gummed up. WD40 and compressed air...put it back together and I had no squeel. The belt wasn't the problem.

When I have some money for my 4 spacers in the spring I want my 5 ths one free because I recommended you..... as if I'd need a spare... Maybe I should have talked up your skid plates.

Thanks for the proper link.

Check out Venders Section on the main page. "4X4 Design" by Steve Fleurys. He's a fav. around here. You should find him easiely...or he might find you. Steve potential customer!

Not much you can do for prerformance but there is for lifts. Have you checked out Fleuries spacers at 4X4 Designs?

Ebrake properly ajusted..Check. Brake fluid is not related. Check. Some such switches suppy ground not supply power, Do you know what I mean? I take it you have a standard...I have always driven autos, in 35 years I've never used the ebrake. Just out of curiousity where is your light...dash or console?

I think I saw him selling some (maybe two) on ebay months ago. It might have been someone else selling his product can't say for sure. Might be worth checking though, think I saw it under " Nissan parts"..

Is there slack in the e-brake cables or is it actualy on? Brake fluid has nothing to do with the e-brake. I have no idea about the switch on a '91 but if it's like most door switches, etc. the switch provides ground not power. So maybe the switch is bad and providing partial ground. Full ground when you do engage it (why it gets brighter)? I bet you could pull the bulb in under 13 hours! I did spend almost a day changing a shifter light bulb a while back though...Remove something, have beer, repete as needed.

Supposed to be -35 tonight. That's F not C not that it matters at -35 anything.

No, since the War (of 1812) I'm still North of the border...across the St. Lawrence River from Morristown, New York. If I go to the river, I can see you guys moving around over there on the other side very suspisiouly. Thanks to NPORA making friends across borders. but back to topic... Today I put on my roof racks and picked up four sheets of 5/8" ply and some 2X4s at Home Depot for work. Took a tall guy with me to load it. Still enjoying the SES light being gone. Also chopped out all the ice around my rear hatch that was keeping the door ajar light on. So now I just have the "D" light and either the 2 or 4 wheel light on. Finely the dash lights are back to normal.

Grimsby...Home of Radial Village, Hyw #8 maybe?

X 2. If you have either (oil pan or valve covers) off make sure they haven't been over tightened before. Check the covers/pan flanges to make sure they aren't dimpled in around the bolt holes. I have a vg35 ('03) and the leak is actually a rust hole through the pan...yes a rust hole in an oil pan. I would say get under there and clean it all up and see where the oil is actually leaking from but you're in Ontario in Feb. so good luck on that one.

For some reason I was thinking Mustang as well.

So yesterday I confirmed that my truck DOES run out gas at 3/8ths of a tank. Correction---it won't pick up gas below that level. The good news is that after I put a can of gas in it, it started up instantly and no check light! Glad to see that light gone after two weeks. Funny that unhooking the battery didn't reset the light but running it out of gas did. P.S. Thanks to Carl from down the road for running back to the farm to get a can of gas. First time the truck has had Super in it. I put Super in the ATV, chain saws, gen. ,mower etc but the Nissan has to live on the sucky ethenol/water mix they sell here as Regular.

Rust? That's now called "patina".

Where I'm from the seller would be responsable for the coil if it was sold with a safety check..and only for thirty days. If you bought it "as is" then that's "what it is". The coil wouldn't be covered under strut recall. I had both tower repaired on my last truck.

I have a '96 Hardbody (Canadian) with the VG30E.

There are 6 (I think) tie down loops under the carpet in the cargo area floor and some more on the sides to secure stuff. And we all know the kids ride on the roof racks.

What size tires? Not to change the subject but BACON Yummmmmm...

Why would anyone own a manual?

OK, just wanted you to know that spacers or springs won't give you more room for bigger tires unless you change rim offset or add wheel spacers and then you might have fender problems. If you do a quick "search" I'm sure you will find more opinions than you want about suspension choices. Oh, and welcome to the club!

What year 3.3 did you put in? What type of swap did you do, 510?