ahardb0dy

is the stock gasket rubber do you know? The one that was in mine is. My buddy bought this trans from a junkyard so I have no idea what year it came out of, I do know for sure that he didn't do anything to it because maintenance is a word he does not know !! Where did you get the filter from? Do you replace the filter element or just clean it? I guess if you replace it you have to order replacements as well?

started to replace trans filter and fluid, got the filter off and the pan down, have to buy fluid tomorrow (today) and finish.

that's what I was thinking polarity, couldn't think of the word, LOL The MSD coil almost looks the same as the stock one

10-4, as I said it's your truck, I have no problem with how you did was just saying that's all. One day I'll do mine. Thanks for posting the pic, was curious on what you meant by 2 piece adapter. Good explanation on the clamps, they do look like factory Nissan style clamps, never thought about the way the wire clamps sit on the barbs, GOOD DEAL!!

lucky the 2 pins in the MSD are the same as the stock coil I mean in positive and negative ( if one pin is actually a positive and negative), would suck if you plugged it in and the MSD was wired opposite of the stock coil !! What's the price difference between the MSD and stock?

Just removed my trans pan and filter today, did it just like the pics show, came right out after removing that metal tube. Don't have any new fluid picking that up tomorrow than will be re-assembling. Thanks for the pics!

2 pics I just took of the magnet, don't know if this is considered an acceptable amount of metal, not going to do anything if it isn't anyway so guess it doesn't really matter. If tranny ever goes will not have it rebuilt I'll just get one from the junkyard or out of an xterra if I have to. The days of paying $2K to have a tranny rebuilt are long gone !!! LOL Also does the tranny filter if original say Nissan on it somewhere? The one that I pulled out just has a number on it. magnet pics below:

Is the metal the bolts go into threaded or do you have to deal with nuts as well? Was going to say if the metal is threaded may be easier to screw 3 threaded rods in with loctite and than just remove 3 nuts on top, but it's your design and if your happy with it that is all that matters right?

I started a new topic only because I'm in a hurry, have to go somewhere with the wife, will delete later if necessary. Ok, decided to change trans filter today, Removed one of the rubber lines coming from the metal lines that come from the tranny, didn't have a rubber hose to put over the metal end so I used a piece of plastic tubing just to get it into my drain pan, and held the other end of the hose (rubber end I removed) in the pan as well. Had wife start the truck to pump out tranny fluid, of course picked the wrong line to remove (fluid was coming out of plastic tube end) and other than the fluid backing up the tube and spraying everywhere !! it worked ok. Will clean all that off later. removed the trans cross member while supporting the transfer case with a bottle jack. Removed all the pan bolts, pan dropped right down, gasket was loose was not stuck to pan or tranny Couldn't get pan out as was stated in the other thread, un bolted and removed the filter unbolted that metal tube and removed, the front bolts were a bitch to get un screw, had to use my short socket while it kept slipping n my tranny fluid coated fingers removed the pan, some metal residue on the magnet, will post pics tomorrow Questions: Can I re-install the filter before putting the metal tube back in, which would require putting the pan back up in the front first? Or should I put it back together the same way I took it apart? Do I coat the o-ring on the filter with tranny fluid first before putting it in? Fluid that came out didn't look that dirty but had like a foamy look to it. Anything special to do when re-filling? Just fill thru dipstick same amount that came out, start, run shifter thru gears than check fluid level?? Thanks, got to run, more questions later if I think of anything else Appreciate it !!

What I would do for the rear bumper is cut off that lower lip and have someone weld a piece of steel to the bracket to extend it down 3", than drill the holes to match the frame and bolt it on. On the stock bumper doing it the way you pictured is fine. When I had my double tube Smitybilt bumper with receiver hitch on my old hardbody I got lucky (working in a 4x4 shop has advantages !!), the Smitybilt double tube bumpers came 2 different ways, the non hitch bumpers had brackets that bolted to the bumper, the receiver hitch bumpers the brackets were one piece integrated into the bumper structure. So when we did the 3" body lift on my hardbody I found a pair of the non hitch style bumper brackets laying around, which had the same contour as the hitch bumper mounts, and a friend of mine just welded the non hitch brackets below the mounts on the receiver hitch bumper which let me raise the bumper and it was still as strong as it was before, believe me I tested it all the time. anyway in unccpathfinder's pic you could do something like this if you wanted to have more than 2 bolts per side, depending on where the 4th bolt hole the bracket could go from the 4th hole to the frame::

I drive my 94 because I couldn't find another hardbody to replace my old one, when the pf became available to me from a buddy for $500 knowing it needed an engine I bought it. Plus having no payments and lower insurance compared to a new vehicle is nice too. I always tell my buddies who have payments that even if I have to do a major repair it usually is still less than one of their payments. I also like how older vehicles are easier to work on and less computer controlled than newer ones, and parts are regularly available at the junk yards.

The pathfinder uses an expansion valve, it is located in the case where the evaporator is, see diagram below:

DAMN IT ! just saw you are in Orlando !! We're neighbors !! I went to the Amazon on OBT and Princeton, they fixed 2 of my metal AC lines for my Sentra, We should get together one weekend, do a junkyard run or something.

Sorry not near NH, down here near Orlando Florida. You can pull the starter you just out in and should be able to take it to most auto parts stores to have it tested for free. I have no luck with reman starters going back to my 87 hardbody and lately my 94 pathfinder. I tried to get a new Bosch starter but they seem to all be on back order or I heard Bosch may not be selling new starters any more, don't know how true that is though. Anyway I ended up buying a brand new starter from Rockauto.com, made by Pure Energy for about $93 with out shipping and so far it is working fine. The relay mod is really a band aide fix for another problem, I did it because I wasn't looking to replace my starter at the time it started acting up, and even with the new starter I left the relay installed. If I was you I would pull the starter and have it tested before doing anything else. You can also as a test take a piece of wire with a female spade connector and plug it into the plug on the starter solenoid, take the other end and touch it to the positive on the battery, do this with the key turned to the "ON" position. This test eliminates all the factory wiring going to the starter other than the thick positive and if it starts fine than you know their is a problem in the wire that goes to the solenoid. if it doesn't start most likely the starter is bad.

I have the AN fittings already -8 I believe, I had them when I had the dual filter mount on my hardbody, still have everything minus the hoses. I had the SS lines from transdapt with straight ends but the hoses were cheap didn't like them. Those lines look like they are braided SS, are they Teflon lined? Precise1, any pics of this: "I made a 2 piece mount so when I change the filter I break it loose but don't break the seal, remove 3 bolts and then unscrew the filter holding both the filter and adapter."

starter relay mod is pretty easy, you just need a standard 4 terminal relay from the auto parts store, ( 5 terminal can be used except you don't use one of the terminals), relay hooks up like this, the relay will have a number next to each terminal, this is where each number goes: #30 - 12 volts in - run a wire from positive battery to terminal #30 should use a fuse inline with this wire #87 - output of relay to what ever you want to turn on, in this case the starter solenoid, remove the wire from the starter solenoid, and in it's place run a wire from terminal #87 to the starter solenoid #86 - control current in ( turns the relay on) - extend the wire you removed from the solenoid and connect to this terminal (#86) #85 - ground, run a wire from this terminal to a ground, (I usually just loop a short wire from the terminal up to the mounting screw for the relay) That's the starter relay mod, basically when you turn the key to crank, power turns the relay on allowing power to flow from the relay to the solenoid, using this mod gives the power a shorter distance to travel to the solenoid. As I said I did this on my 94 and it lasted about a year before the starter finally crapped out, you have already replaced your starter, I have had no luck with reman starters and is why I just bought a brand new on from Rockauto.com and so far it is working perfect. It is possible the replacement starter you got is bad. almost forgot if you happen to get a 5 terminal relay the only difference will be it will have a terminal "87A", just don't use this one, the relay's with the 87A are known as change over relays, what they do is when the relay is off 87A has power/ 87 does not, when the relay is turned on 87A has no power but 87 does

I like that adapter, and the lines, (I will have similar lines made with the same ends when I do mine), but I'm not to fond of the filter under the hood. You would still need to put something under it to catch any oil or be REALLY careful when removing the filter. Possibly having the filter up high allows the oil to drain when the engine is off I don't know. I like the filter mounts with the line connections on the top better, keeps the lines away from the filter. But everyone has their own preferences and the setup in the pictures is not mine. It looks good though.

I've heard the bolts are hard to find probably due to being Metric, if possible pull one of your rear bolts out to measure and take it with you to where ever you may get them from to see if they have them. Don't want to order a kit hoping to find the bolts locally and than not be able to find them. My 2 cents.

Is the starter spinning but the engine won't run? or is the starter just clicking? I would also suggest checking the battery terminals, cleaning and tightening as may be necessary. Can also swap out the starter relay for another one if you have one and try that. When my starter first started acting up I did the starter relay mod and that lasted almost a year before I had to replace the starter (which lasted 4 months) before I bought a brand new one and so far it is perfect.

part number 62318-01W00 $1.35 each online

Can you recall how long the lines are you had made?

I've never had a problem just putting the square end into the grille and turning the other end by hand, than pushing the grille with clip installed into the rad support. It's always good to pick up extras as I said if you are at a junkyard.

My buddy had a 2002 Tacoma 2wd and the shifter was so bad he hardly could get it into some of the gears, we took it apart when we got home from work one day and the bottom bushing was completely gone, An idea popped into my head and I went into my shed to look for a plumbing part, You know the plastic washers they use for the under sink compression fittings, well they have different thickness washers and one of them fit into the Toyota shifter perfect, tightened the shifter right up and he was able to get into all the gears. A few days later he ordered a heavy duty replacement from a Martin Crawler I think made of delrin. Yours may not be falling out but it's nice to be able to get into all the gears, don't want to be in the middle of no where and find you can't shift.

I know on Toyota they have a plastic bushing above and below the shifter ball (pivot) according to the FSM it looks like the Nissan uses the same type of bushings, here are 2 pics of the parts from Nissan Fast, you can ask Rob in the "Genuine Nissan Parts" thread: the parts in red:

I bought my engine from one of those places, it was still attached to the tranny, actually they had 2 in stock, I chose the one with the OEM JDM oil filter, the engine runs like brand new !! No problems. The place I went to is local to me in Orlando. Paid about $600 for the engine.