ahardb0dy

my post didn't post ?? anyway I wrote earlier that you have a parts truck I would go for it.

I had the K&N Apollo filter on my 94 for a while ( the enclosed K&N cone filter), than an open element K&N, got tired of hearing it so put it back to stock. And I drive over 85 daily too. The Apollo: the open K&N, notice the plexi spacer it acts as a heat insulator (just kidding!):

You should never trust PO on a used vehicle unless you know something was done. I always advise to replace everything when getting a used vehicle cause you don't know when it was replaced before. Was funny when we first bought the Infiniti Q45t we used to have, my wife actually bought it on E-bay, it was local to us, we paid about $4k for it, I was on the NICO forum asking some questions and one of the members there tells me "well if you put about $1400 into it the car will run like new" OK !!! ?? I just spent $4K like I have another $1400 laying around?????....

I think he meant the belts are fine being in a warehouse and that they are under more set conditions than when installed and exposed to underhood conditions.

I don't think there are any relays involved for the power windows. I would as I said just run a wire from the positive on the battery to each wire on each motor to see if the motors do work. Ground one of the wires going to the motor connector and put power on the other terminal ( there are only 2 terminals on the motors), if the motor works reverse the 2 wires to see if the window moves the opposite direction. If the motors work than you can go from there troubleshooting.

Nissan keeps them in climate controlled warehouses didn't you know??? Sorry don't know that answer

As long as you have the fenders on still wheel spacers will make things worse. They will move the tire out further and cause them to hit. A tire mounted on a wheel with the proper offset will clear better than a tire on a wheel with the wrong offset, adding spacers is like running wheels with the wrong off set.

Well The yellow top I bought my buddy is still in his Toyota pickup and working so it must be OK, I bought that battery for him over 10 maybe 15 years ago.

Today I started my PF to show my neighbor who has an xterra what the fan should sound like when the fan clutch is working properly.

A guy I used to know way back had a Nissan 4x4 with a chevy engine and I know he had to clearance the firewall for the distributor. Don't recall if he had a body lift, he had a sick suspension and was running 46" terra tires at the time. A ford engine swap works good if you could find the right adapters as the distributor is in the front. Advance adapters used to sell the adapters to swap in the Chevy engine. The 4x4 shop I used to work in swapped a chevy 4.3 into a 720 Nissan pickup 4x4 and I know they had to re-gear the axles to match the rpm range of the new engine, only other details I remember from that truck is he was running 33's, no clue on what tranny we used.

You said the other day you measured the battery voltage and it was just over 10 volts. Than you said you monitored the voltage and it dropped from 12.6 to 12.57. So did the truck sit for a while with out being run when you first tested it and got over 10 volts? If you disconnected the negative cable and when you tested it again it was at 12.57 from 12.6 volts is that what it normally is after sitting for a while? I doubt you have anything that is really drawing power when the truck is not running, other than the clock and possibly the memory for presets on the radio, you said when the negative was connected and the truck sat it still only dropped 0.01 volts compared to when the negative was disconnected. If the truck starts fine every time I would not worry about it, I mean your talking very low voltage drop. I think most battery voltage drops to around 12.5 when the engine is shut off and I think the drop from the running voltage (say 14) to the not running voltage at the battery will drop faster as soon as the engine is turned off but I do not think it will continue to drop at the same rate over time. I don't think an amp gauge is going to reveal much unless it is digital and if your still talking about a tenth or hundredth of a volt I still think it is so small it would not be worth worrying about.

I bought the transdapt single filter mount and adapter, separate, no problems at all with the machining or the 2 parts at all. This is the second set I have bought, first one was probably 20 years ago (still have it but it is a dual filter mount), no problem with the old parts either just did not want to run dual filters this time and needed a new O-ring for the adapter, was almost as cheap to buy the new adapter than just the O-ring so I did. You may have just got a bad one. Most if not all of the mounts and adapters are cast unless they say they are billet.

The optima's went up so much in price over the years, way more than normal inflation. When they first came out I owed a buddy some money and bought him a yellow top instead and it was about $100, now I see them going for around $180. I think everyone has had there own experiences with what ever batteries, some times you get a bad one even if it is "the best battery that everyone recommends", I always use batteries from Walmart as was said already they are readily available, if you have a problem you can find a walmart basically anywhere, and even living down here in too hot Florida they seem to last just as long as any other battery.

Where was the wire broken? You checked for connectivity or do you mean power? At what plug coming back from the starter? What clip do you put on the positive terminal? when you say you tested the plug and 3/4 light up are you referring again to the 4 wires coming off the positive terminal? When both battery terminals are on and tight the truck won't start, does it do anything when you try to start it? The service manual seems to show one wire coming off the positive terminal, that goes to a plug that has 4 wires coming out of it, one of these wires a white wire with a black stripe goes to the ignition key, from there it comes back under the hood to the starter relay and than down to the starter solenoid. The plug with the 4 wires that you say only 3 have power may be the fusible link, and again that may be your entire problem. Get back to me when you can and we'll go from there, we'll get your truck straightened out yet !!!! If you were closer I'd be glad to come over and help you out.

So how much space is there between the UCA and the bump stop? No matter how you adjust the torsion bars depending on how you 4 wheel you will hit the bump stops, normal 4 wheeling you will probably be fine, if the tire falls into a hole than yes the UCA may hit the bump stop but that is what they are there for. The main thing is you don't want to have no suspension travel when driving on the road. I've seen people crank the bars so much where the UCA is sitting on the rubber, besides having no suspension travel cranking the bars that much gives a very firm ride, not something you want. Even if you have the distance between the UCA and the rubber and the space between the LCA and the rubber equal distances away you still only have about an inch of travel either way. Not the long travel suspension like the off road trucks, LOL As for how much the rear coils will settle no way too tell, it depends on the brand, the quality of the steel the manufacturer uses, how the truck is used, etc. they usually will settle a little ( as will the front), If you want to keep the rear at the current height you could try to pick up a set of aftermarket UCA's and raise the front to match the rear, the aftermarket arms allow you to raise the front higher while still maintaining the alignment of the ball joint.

Usually the driver side master switch controls both sides, so if the drivers side switch is bad it could prevent the pass side from working. I take it the pass. side does not work from the pass. side switch? I would pull the panels and test if the motors work by connecting them to a known good 12 volt source. There are only 2 wires on the motors so the positive and negatives get switched for up or down.

How much higher is the rear over the front? All springs settle and yours will too so if it isn't a big difference you may want to leave it. The torsion bars can be cranked as long as you leave space between the upper control arm and the rubber bump stop. I would leave about a half inch of clearance between the UCA and the bumpstop. I don't think you need to worry about the CV joints or the drive shaft, IF you were to raise the front end 3" than maybe.

First check fuse for AC, did the light in the switch come on before you installed the radio? When you installed the radio did you connect the ground for the radio to a ground in the factory harness because there is no ground in the harness the radio needs to be grounded to metal some where. It is possible for the bulb in the switch to be bad too. When you press the AC button you get nothing? There is an AC relay in the corner under the hood near where the cruise control vacuum pump is (same side as the battery), if the AC relay is blue you can swap it out with another blue relay to test it, all the blue relays that look the same are the same. According to the FSM for my 94 the fuse that goes to the AC switch is a 15 amp

The 2 and 4 door pathfinders are the same length they just made it into a 4 door here are the specs: Per the 1994 FSM: WD21 pathfinder: wheelbase - 104.3 inches overall length - 171.9 (on models with spare tire carrier overall length is increased by 9.1 for P215/75/15 tire, 10.2 for P235/75/15 tire and 10.8 for 31/10.50/15 tire so with the 31" tire on the outside spare tire carrier the overall length would be 182.7 D21 Pickup (hardbody): wheelbase - 104.3 regular cab standard wheelbase 116.1 king cab long wheelbase overall length - 174.6 - regular cab standard wheelbase 190.0 king cab long wheelbase on step bumper equipped models the bumper adds 5.5 inch to the overall length so a regular cab short bed with a step bumper the overall length would be 180.1 per a 1989 FSM 2 door pathfinder specs are the same specs can be seen here as well from original PF ad:

So you ran a wire from the positive battery terminal to the stud on the alternator and everything worked? I wouldn't call it short circuiting, more of jumping the harness. You said previously " Its the biggest white wire I checked it right after the link" did you have power on the other side of the plug where the 2 green wires are? If you don't have power on the green wire side than possibly that is the fusible link and if so you can probably just replace the link. If you have power on the green wire side of the plug but not going thru the plug to the thick white wire than it could be a problem with the plug, if this is the case I would unplug the connector and check for power at the green wires than check inside the plug. Make sure to check the plug that you unplug that contains the thick white wire to make sure there is no problem with the pin or pins inside the plug. If you had power at the thick white wire near the plug but not a foot away than that would indicate a problem with that wire and than you would need to follow the thick white wire to find the problem. Glad to hear your making progress. Let me know what you find I'll be on all night.

It depends on who you go to. The guy I use charged me $580 to swap my bad VG30 for the New/used JDM VG30 engine I bought, and the price included the few parts he needed to do the swap, timing belt and a radiator hose, swapping the TB over as the JDM engine did not have cruise. Truck runs perfect.

When I pulled the regulator on my 94 I unbolted the glass from the regulator (bottom of the glass 2 10mm bolts), lifted the glass manually and held it in place with 2 wooden wedges, unbolt the regulator track top and bottom, (per a pic of the regulator from rockauto it shows 2 bolts top and 2 bottom on the regulator track) unplug the motor plug, and you should be able to remove the regulator with the motor as an assembly. It wasn't that difficult. this pic is from my 94, not sure if your 98 is different but it should be similar: these are the 2 bolts that hold the glass to the regulator (again on my 94):

the ones in my 90 sentra looked like beige lifesaver candies, the new replacements were a green material. I just gave my last one to my neighbor for his xterra, probably should order a few to keep as extras

I use batteries from Walmart, I usually ask for one for a full size Ford as they fit and have a higher CCA and reserve, last time I asked for the Ford battery it was the same number that was listed for the Nissan.

I've heard the same thing that Ford insisted the engines be made non interference, no clue how they did it though.