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If your tire is rubbing on the factory fender flare, you can just trim it slightly, they cut very easily with a razor blade (utility knife), I cut the flares on my old hardbody, just follow the factory edge so the new cut edge looks the same. My hardbody did not have the factory mud flaps that the pathfinders have intergrated into the flares.

my car used to bog from a stop but was fine any other time, turned out the aftermarket plug wires I was using were crap, replaced them with stock wires and it was perfect.

No idea, but one is listed for a 300ZX and maxima which should have the same variant of a VG30 in them. Hoses are probably the same diameter. Actually just looked up the upper radiator hose on rockauto.com and every upper hose they sell says they are 1.25" or 31.75 mm

That isn't the thermostat housing where those sensors are. You could eliminate the sender for the stock gauge and use that port for the aftermarket one. For the tranny I would use one of these, I had one on my old hardbody, made by Autometer, the part comes with compression fittings to be installed in metal tube but you can replace them and use barb fittings, that is how I had mine: Here is another site I had in my favorites that make the radiator hose adapters: http://www.nissport.com/catalog/type.asp?EquipmentType=Applications&ProductType=Universal

The sway a way site lists the torsion bar lengths as: 86-99 2wd Hardbody 34 13/16" 86-97 4wd hardbody 47 7/16" 87-97 4wd pathfinder 48 7/16" Don't know if the pathfinder bars are actually 1" longer or if that is a typo Cory, the Enrgy Suspension strut arm bushings and control arm bushings look correct, the sway bar bushings do not.

Measure your current ride height per the procedure in the FSM, see FA-52 here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/fa.pdf If the height is not correct, adjust the bars so it is, than have the front end aligned. If the shop you take it too says they can't align it, go somewhere else. If the height is set to spec there should not be any reason it can't be aligned. In fact when I had the alignment done on my 94 the alignment shop adjusted the bars before they did the alignment.

I haven't done any off roading with my pathfinder yet, but in my old hardbody, besides the required equipment you needed to go out on the 4x4 part of the beach back in NY (jack, jack board, tow strap, air source, shovel, first aid kit) all I carried was a screw driver and a pair of channelocks.

worked fine this time

pair, no problem Don't forget torsion bars are usually labeled left and rights

Your welcome, if you decide to order from Rockauto there is a 5% off code somewhere on this site. Everytime someone places an order they receive a new code, anyone can use anyone's code so we share the code so someone else can use it. Make sure the torsion bars you get are for the pathfinder, they are slightly longer than the ones for the Hardbody pickup. sway a way has the torsion bars for $205 http://www.swayaway.com/torsionbars.php There are other sources for the bars as well, 4x4 parts.com has them for $210 - https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-torsion-bars-p-94.html

Upper control arm bushings (2 per side) Lower control arm bushing (1 per side) Compression ( or strut rod) bushings, lower control arm (2 per side with new sleeves)- lot of members use Moog part sway bar end link bushings (4 per side) sway bar to frame bushings (1 per side) shock bushings ( 2 per side top, 1 per side bottom) see pic below shows shopping cart from rock auto showing all except the shock bushings: I like Moog parts but other brands are available from rockauto or you can get them from Rob thru the genuine Nissan parts thread here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/page-17?do=findComment&comment=59429044 or from a local dealer.

your only running 3/8" for the remote oil filter?

makes a huge difference, especially running legal power of only 4 watts !!!

Welcome to the forum, PICS !!! A cobra 19 isn't a high powered CB so you would be fine going into the cigarette lighter. Or you could eliminate the lighter plug and connect the CB to the wires that go to the lighter. If the CB was higher powered I would say to run the positive directly to the battery and I usually will ground the CB as close to the unit as possible. Make sure you have someone check the SWR's of the antenna, either a CB shop or if you know someone who may have a SWR meter.

one more try:

test: tinypic code: worked that time, ?? don't know

If it works it's fine I guess, how do you know the manufacturer uses RTV?

Anyone else getting an error when they try to attach pics to a post? I'm using the code from Tinypic.com that I use everytime I add a pic, never had a problem before up until a few days ago, this is what I get: If I copy my reply and click on "more reply options" it comes up like this: than if I click submit it will let me reply with my pic?? Anyone else seeing anything like this??

Years ago Jim Connor Racing sold a kit to swap the TB over to a carb but they were using a Holley carb, 500CFM, the kit included the intake manifold, air cleaner, linkage, etc, they were claiming a 45% increase over stock when used with their headers and cams. Unfortunetly JCR is no longer in business. Can't recommend anything as far as a Weber, you may want to send them or one of their distributors an e-mail to inquire if they sell a kit for the Nissan V6 engine. Original JCR catalog page shown below:

I wouldn't use RTV, I think urethane would be better, but if RTV worked for you than I guess it's ok. I figure if they use urethane to glue windows in it would (and does I've used it) work good to attach the lens back to the headlight housing.

Why do they have to be opened? To paint the trim piece? You could put them in an oven or maybe soften the glue with a heat gun, When we had our Infiniti Q45 I removed the glass (don't recall how) but I used window urethane to re-glue the halves together, also used the same urethane to re-glue the lens back into my sentra headlight. One tip with the urethane, any small amount even the size of a speck on your hands will spread to everything you touch !! A small amount like that goes far to getting on everything.

Looks good !!! I did the headlights on my step daughters Kia, I think I used 600,1000,1200,1500 & 2000 grit, than Mothers plastic polish, they came out better than new. Here's a before and after shot, these were a LOT worse than yours: before: after:

Mission Completed ! Figured it out had to add one wire between the rear luggage light and I used the switch on the Drivers side rear door. Now when you open ANY of the front doors the front and rear lights both come on, (as long as both lights are set to the "DOOR" position, if you open just the rear hatch the luggage light and the front light comes on ( it was like that stock I didn't realize the front light came on too). If the rear luggage light is in the "OFF" position, opening the doors will not turn it on. And the "OFF" position still works as designed on both lights. What I did to make it work: Pulled rear luggage light out of headliner, removed rear trim piece that runs from left to right side rear of headliner, located the RED with WHITE striped wire, in the wire bundle that runs above the hatch area, connected a new wire using a tap crimp connector to the red/white wire, ran new wire to the Dr. side rear door, removed the inside panel and the switch, fished the new wire through the body so it was outside the truck next to the switch, cut a small section of the rubber insulation off the wire going to the Dr. rear door switch, stripped the wire slightly and attached the new wire, taped the connection and put the Dr. door switch back in, re-installed the trim near back door the luggage light and trim, DONE there were 3 wires going to the rear luggage light, and in my 94 the colors were: red/green stripe - power, red/white stripe - ground from hatch switch (the switch for the hatch is actually near the latch itself inside the door), black - ground wire

Looking at the schematic, it appears all the door switches connect into a central wire that goes to the ground for the front light, so I'm wondering if I tie a wire into the Dr. door switch than run it back to the ground going to the luggage area light if it would complete the circuit causing the lluggage area light to come on? If this works it should also let the luggage light function normally. Will try it out today to see.

I recently pulled my door lock timer (94 also) and resoldered a few connections that I guess I resoldered before and locks have been fine since. here is a link to a thread I made showing the timer and where it is: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34301-wd21-door-lock-timer/