ahardb0dy

Today, replaced the easy valve cover gasket ! Of course the pass. side, Cleaned the coolant temp sensor for the ECU, need a new plug for it now.

you may still need to backup slightly even with the manual hubs, it's possible when the hubs lock and than you unlock them something inside is still binding preventing the hub from actually unlocking, when you back up it breaks the binding and unlocks.

yup or trying to scam you, " I am in South Africa I will send you a check for more than you are asking, keep the difference .....blah blah blah"

I had my wife help and I ran mode 2 again at 2000RPM, the lights both red and green blinked about 5 times in a short period so I guess that is OK. Going to check the temp sensor ( for the ECU) tomorrow per the FSM

I'm dealing with almost the same problem wright now. Do not notice any smoke and the truck runs perfect, no stumble or hesitation. I have not checked the timing yet. Today I drove to my storage unit and back twice, exactly 3.0 miles each way, when I left the house the first time the fuel gauge was just a hair above the 1/4 mark, now after driving 12 miles it is a full needle width below the 1/4 mark. I have the tires at the correct pressure, I had the AC off and most of the drive was under 40 MPH although I did get close to 55 MPH for about 20-30 seconds of the trip. I ran that mode 2 diagnostic earlier after letting the engine warm up but I did it at idle and got a solid red and green LED, I guess I need to check mode 2 with the RPM's held at 2000 ?? I also checked for codes and got the "55", The air filter looked slightly dirty, And the truck was running very rich even after it warmed up, I could smell it, no exhaust leaks that I know of. Plugs were changed a while back and I did not pull them to check them today, cap and rotor and plug wires have not been changed yet they are what was on the JDM engine when I bought it, So from what I read above I guess I need to check the timing, run mode 2 at 2000 RPM, vacuum lines are probably ok as the engine runs good. May pick up a new coolant temp sensor as they are cheap enough, also I have changed the O2 sensor a while back as well.

Well I'll probably have it for a while, isn't much interest in anyone buying it so far, but I only have it listed here and on FB for now so I really am not expecting many calls, LOL I'll probably list it on craigslist soon.

try cleaning the TB

Precise was referring to the gap that was typed incorrectly as being a large gap, it was typed as 0.34 - 0.36, no the 0.034 - 0.036

I don't know, the only bars I have ever bought were the Jim Connor Racing two stage bars I had in my old hardbody. But the one's in my PF now are marked on the rear end of each bar. He bought the package 4x4 parts sells he told me.

That's why Rob is The man !!! You already have 2 of the washers, unless they are deformed should only need 2, Rockauto is pretty fast with there shipping, that applies in the US no idea as far as shipping to Canada, also there is a 5% off code that you can use when you go to check out on the rockauto site, you enter it in the "where did you here about us" box,. the latest code is always in the first post of this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26865-rockautocom-discount-code/ The only part that may give you trouble when replacing the bushings is when you go to re-install the 2 bolts that go through the lower control arm, I will either use a large screw driver or a large punch to line up one of the holes, than once one hole is lined up the second one is pretty easy to line up.

What's up with using a 300zx filter ?

Anyway you could take a video and post it ? Do you hear a clicking or snapping noise when you see the flashing ?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29067-front-bumper-build-pics-please/

same part number I just got, you probably need 2 washers and the rear nuts too I guess, 54470-31G00 - tension rod 54477-T6000- washer nut part number is not coming up over time if the bushings are worn where the rod goes through the hole in the bracket on the frame will slowly eat through the rod and sleeve, someone just posted a pic of a really bad one on here, probably what happened to yours, and it most likely wore the tension rod down so much one bump and snap !

did your rods break? or is the threaded part still there? from the pics it looks like both of your rods snapped, the rods, with the nut and washer on the back of the bracket on the frame should not be able to just come out of the hole, Yes, the rod goes through the hole, bushing on each side, washer on each side, nut on the back side, oh and you need to use a wrench on that rear nut as a socket will not fit

Oreily auto parts sells these terminals, they run like $2.60 each, easy to add extra wires too, this pic is the battery in my sentra but have them on the PF also:

Welcome to NPORA !!! yeah, those are shot, they are called tension rods and they should look like this: your going to need to pick up 2 new ones, may be able to find decent one's from a junkyard or just order them through Rob on the forum, He works in a Nissan dealer in Texas and has good prices, you can contact him about the parts here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/page-42?do=findComment&comment=689981 I would not drive the truck with those rods broken never mind do 100KMH in 4wd until you fix them, a lot of members on here use these bushings instead of the rubber OEM one's, these are made by moog, you can see the before and after difference when I did them on mine, they are available from Rockauto.com and other stores the part number I used is K9515 they run $19.32 for the set (does both sides with new sleeves): I would also recommend downloading the Factory Service Manual from the link in this thread, it's free, you can find it here, it's the first link, just open each section and save it in a folder: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26616-factory-service-manuals/

Just wait until you have to take the HVAC controls out to fix that !!! But don't worry if you need too, I took pictures when I did mine

No they shouldn't do that

Yes, if the plug wires are bad they can be arching against metal and the engine will lose power , this is what I said previously happened to me in my sentra, time for new wires, when you change them I would pick up a small tube if dielectric grease, squirt some into the end that goes over the plug, it will make them easier to get off Next time .

Mine never goes over half way after I replaced the fan clutch. Truck is for sale, you need a 4 door, keep saying that, "I need a 4 door, I need a 4 door" LOL

welcome ! Anytime.

Too large a gap could cause a misfire or hesitation but I don't think going from 0.40 to 0.32 would cause it.

forgot to mention, you want to clean the edge of the butterfly in the throttle body as good as you can, when you move the linkage there should not be any stickiness to how it opens.

This is a pathfinder engine, my 94: