ahardb0dy

I thought the same thing that it was probably slightly low because the pads are wearing but I added a little anyway, it wasn't much. Now my 90 sentra has to have a leak somewhere because it is low ALL the time, was going to check one of the rear wheel cylinders yesterday but didn't get to it, will check it today. I replaced the one on the pass. side should have replaced both at the same time, the one I replaced was original, car now has 255K miles on it ( still gets 29 MPG with the way I drive ! too)

Big day today ! LOL Checked the oil, topped off the brake and power steering fluids, washed it, cleaned the windows in and out, pre-cleaned it using Mothers Pre-cleaner. Oh and drove around the block to check for any weird noises or issues since my step daughter has been driving it and doesn't tell me anything !! LOL Nothing found.

The nozzles on the hood should spray in a double stream (each), if you think they may be restricted, what I do is remove them and running them under hot water in the sink use a sewing needle to make sure the holes are clean, than re-assemble onto the hood. It is not uncommon for there to be wax buildup in the openings.

when you crank the bars a lot to gain more height you are limiting the amount the tire can move downward, as if you drove into a hole or something. Would this be considered downward travel? I would think so. I never had a problem with my CV boots or joints when I had my old hardbody, I know everyone mentions the cv axles when cranking the bars, I did not have them cranked to the point where the UCA was sitting on the bumpstop though. My truck rode fine and always felt fine when off roading too.

Are the upper ball joints installed on the bottom of the upper control arm? or on the top? Don't think they can mount from the top but curious, we also had someone who had the lower ball joints installed on the wrong side of the lower control arm one time Got any pics of the UCA and how they are installed?

never had a problem the way I had mine repaired on my old hardbody and I didn't have the bushing cups either, It may not have been the right way but it was safe and drove fine. The steel I used I believe was 1/4" thick

pulled one of the spark plugs to see what it looked like, man was it hard to get out !! I was worried, it was so hard to UN-thread I thought I was going to break it ! Finally got it out, can't believe when I put these plugs in I did not use anti seize on the threads !! Never again, I checked the gap and cleaned the thread, applied a little anti seize and back in it went. Than pulled the other two on the pass. side and did the same thing, also a little dab of dielectric grease inside the plug boots. Not bothering with the drivers side until I pull the intake to do the valve cover gasket, may replace the plugs at that time as well. Plugs didn't look bad, gap was about 0.036 ( see precise I remembered to put the Zero in ! LOL, not picking on you, just you made me so I will not forget that ), Blower fan was making some noise so I pulled the glove box than the blower resistor, pretty clean in there but when I turned the fan on a few leaves came out. Removed the blower motor, the fan was only on for a few minutes and the motor was really hot. Took the motor completely apart, bottom plate was all rusty, wire brushed it, and the area where the brushes ride against, blew it all out, applied some grease where the shaft goes through the end mount and on the end cap where the other end of the motor shaft sits in, re-assembled, spins a lot quieter now, will see if it runs any cooler. Also blew out the hose that feeds air into the motor. Re-installed. on the Sentra, removed the coil, cleaned inside where the wire goes, re-installed

Those relay panels are very nice, now if someone wanted to install one of those under the hood, I would mount it inside a Tupperware bowl, than snap the lid on and an airtight, water proof, relay station !

I may have to try this

so why can't you just cut the black wire out of the harness and ground it ?

so where does the ground wire go now with out this?

thanks

My buddy back home used to have this stuff think it was called Kroil, orange can was pretty good if I recall correctly

they have them in smaller gauges too

Those are made by Moog, I think someone said they had them by Energy Suspension and those usually come in red.

all the hardbody's are basically the same except for engine choices, 95 was the last year for the V6, than 96 & 97 only offered the 4 cyl KA24, and the interior, 86.5 to 93 square dash, 94 to 97 round. Oh and I know they moved the radio antenna location on the fender, and of course the different hoods, vents to no vents. Oh and 89 that had the pathfinder style headlights and grille

thanks

Same link as Precise posted, oh hell here is direct link: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/ they only have a few

I thought My1Path had posted something baout a place he found that sold replacement connectors but I could not find the thread. Not sure if it was just for the fuel injector connectors or any of the one's on the Nissan. I need some new plugs, I know I can search the junkyard for one's that are better than mine but wanted to see if there was a source online other than a dealer. Thanks I need the plug for the coolant temp sender ( for the ECU) and a few others.

You could use one of those car audio fused distribution blocks, just run what ever size positive to the distribution block and than tap off of it for what ever you need to run, something like one of these: this one happens to handle positive and negative do not think this particular one is available anymore though:

This was one side on my truck and they looked fine before I took it apart, pictured with the new poly ones:

I would soak them in a penetrating oil, PB blast if you can get it. WD40 makes a new one think it is in a black can. Than borrow a big breaker bar or use a 1/2" ratchet that you don;t mind if it breaks and put a pipe over the handle, If the but doesn;t want to budge, do as I said and cut the head off the bolt, unless you have access to a heat source.

the 2 that go through the lower control arm? Soak them in PB Blaster or equivalent, have any way to heat them? or worse thing cut or grind the heads off. I would cut the head off the bolts as close to the arm as you can get, than use a grinder to take off some more of the bolt head, until you can use a punch to knock the remaining bolt head through the hole, yes you would need to get new bolts and nuts of course.

what bolts?

checked the coolant sender, did it while the engine was cold, than removed it and checked it again, cleaned it and put it back in, cleaned the connectors in the plug, I need to get a new plug as the plastic is broke so bad the metal clip won't even stay on. I think I should get a new sender. Have to hit the junkyard need a few other connectors for other things too. The sender seemed like it was within spec for the cold temp. They are cheap enough and I have a gift card for Rockauto so I may just order a new one.