ahardb0dy

Does it only do it at idle? If so it could be from the TB being dirty. If it runs ok at speed it wouldn't be the fuel pump Really need to check to see if any codes come up. The tank could have water in it, when you fill it up the tank is never totally empty so if there is water in it, it could still be in the tank, won't hurt to throw some of that gas line antifreeze stuff in, I think all it is is isopryopl alcohol. These pics are not of a pathfinder throttle body but they will give you an idea of what I am telling you to clean: this pic shows the rear of a throttle body, the butterfly is the flat part that fills the opening, you can see how dirty they can get: This pic, blurry I know, shows the build up on the inside of the TB, this build up is what needs to be cleaned:

change the fuel filter, how many miles since you replaced it? What spark plug wires did you use? Sometimes the auto parts store wires can be as much the problem as leaving the old ones on. My sentra was bogging from a stop I had auto parts store wires on it that were fairly new, replaced them with OEM wires and problem went away. I know the OEM wires can be expensive that is why I listed the NGK wires they seem just as good and are cheaper, I have them on my sentra now, same diameter so they fit in the wire holders, numbered like OEM and they have the same wire loom on the wires in the proper location just like OEM. I would also try some gas line antifreeze in the gas, may have some bad gas or water in the tank. Make sure nothing thought using your snorkel would be a good place to build a nest, a restriction in the tube can be blocking air flow to the engine. Just remembered one other thing that fits your symptoms very well, have you ever cleaned the throttle body? The butterfly (The blade that moves when you step on the gas pedal) in the throttle body is designed to not close fully, this allows a small amount of air to pass by it so the engine can idle, over time crap builds up on the edges of the butterfly and will not allow that small amount of air to pass, and can starve the engine of air, remove the accordion hose coming from the air filter box that goes to the Throttle body, try moving the linkage that connects from the cable that goes to the gas pedal to the throttle body, if the linkage seems like it gets stuck when you first open the butterfly than it is time to clean it. I would use some carb cleaner and a rag and a tooth brush, spray the outside of the butterfly and make sure to clean the edges of it as well of the inside of the throttle body where the butterfly sits when it is closed, use the tooth brush. When you are done cleaning everything, spray it again and wipe it out, Let the truck sit for a few minutes with the accordion hose off, after a few minutes start the engine, it may run crappy until any left over carb cleaner is evaporated, rev the engine a few times and it should return back to normal smooth idle. Hope this helps, if you need pics of anything I just recommended I have them.

no check engine light, it can produce codes and you won't know until you check for them. That thread for checking the codes is too long, simple way right here, slide the pass. seat all the way forward, remove the plastic cover on the ECU if there is one, locate the small slotted screw on the rear of the ECU, turn the key to "ON" but do not start, turn the screw on the ECU fully clockwise, leave the screw driver on the screw because you need to turn it back quickly at the right time, watch the RED and GREEN LED's, after you turn the screw fully clockwise, watch the LED's, after they flash 3 times ( red and green together), quickly turn the screw fully counter clockwise, this puts it into Mode 3, where it will flash any codes, now watch the LED's and count each color how many times it flashes, 5 red than 5 green = everything is good no trouble codes, When was the last time basic tune up was done? Besides the above mentioned, fuel and air filters? Pay attention with the fuel filter I believe it has an arrow on it for direction of flow. Also not mentioned, if the fuel filter has not been replaced lately, the rubber hoses may be a Bitch to get off, secret is to loosen the clamps, try to twist the rubber hose, may have to put the tip of a screw driver between the rubber hose and the filter to try to pry it up a little. After you remove the hose from the old filter, place it right onto the new one so gas doesn't get all over, than set the new filter on a rag, leave the little plastic cap on if the filter came with one, until you get the other hose off the old filter. If the truck has a stumble when taking off from a stop it could be the spark plug wires need replacing, with those I would recommend using NGK or OEM, You can check the spark plug wires to see if any are arching against metal by spraying a mist of water on them at night and looking for what would look like little lightning bolts, sometimes if the plug wire is arching against metal you will hear it making a clicking noise. When a plug wire was bad on my sentra, the car wouldn't go over 50 MPH, gas pedal floored, I wrapped some electrical tape over the bad spot and it ran fine, until the spark burned through the tape ! With the spark plugs, Nissan's like NGK, use what ever one you feel like paying for but the cheap one's are just fine, I use the "V-groove plugs " in mine, some people will go a step up and use the "G- power" plugs also from NGK

tightened the alt and power steering belts, greased the steering stops and adjusted the door striker, need door hinge pin bushings

"Just trying to look at everything before replacing the starter again. Four Starters in two years is a bit excessive." Try two starters in a week ! that's what happened with my old hardbody using local rebuilt units, took the 3rd one before I got one that lasted. If you locate the starter relay which should be a blue one, find another blue one from somewhere else and swap them, most of the colored relays are the same, except for a couple that are the same color but don't look the same it's obvious they are different, if it starts fine after swapping the relay than it is the relay that is bad. I don't see anything in the FSM either labeled starter relay, but I know it is behind the battery, when I did the starter relay mod on my 94 the wire that goes to the starter and the wire that comes from the ignition switch were both right there. You may need to trace the wire coming up from the starter solenoid to see which relay it goes too.

Welcome, I've owned both changer systems over the years, I think the Sony Uni link cable actually has a small rectangle plug in the center, so it's probably an Alpine cable.. Do not know if the pathfinders came with optional CD changers

CD changer maybe? Looks like a sony or Alpine plug

should be able to find a used one at a junkyard, if you were to run the engine with out it you would need to make a plate to block off the opening first anyway.

What exactly broke?

as long as the ground is still connected to the inner fender than it will be fine, if you have to drill a new hole and nut and bolt it that would work too, may want to scrape the paint away from where ever you mount it too so it gets a better connection.

what pile?

ahardb0dy, on 08 Oct 2013 - 7:05 PM, said: Which tells you very little. adamzan, on 10 Oct 2013 - 11:02 PM, said: Bingo! Thanks for the "which tells you very little" comment, that helps, Appreciate the sarcasm ! Well I would fill it and figure the MPG the normal way but I can't afford to fill it every 2 weeks, that is why I keep the sentra. I think my old hardbody on 33's with the non OD trans got better mileage than this truck.

bump (for Kyle )

just don't do what my neighbor did, this was driving him crazy, he installed a sony headunit and an amp in his old jeep and it worked fine when he played the radio but every time he switched to CD no sound, finally after he called me over I discovered he was using the power antenna wire hooked to the remote turn on for the amp and when you switch from radio to CD, the power antenna wire no longer has power going to it and it killed the amp.

The truck in the first post looks like it is based off a Hardbody, look at where the fuel door is that is open

He didn't say he hears the noise when he is rolling only said when he turns the steering wheel it gets worse

Sounds like a seized bearing, also the belts being too right can cause noise but not what that sounded like, I would try to isolate where the noise is coming from the way I said than you can use little water on the pulley or shaft if is the alternator to see if the noise goes away, nay even be from the idler pulley on the AC belt

You could use a long extention or Metal rod, place the end on the alternator case while engine is running put the other end next to your ear and listen to see if you can hear the noise, be careful you don't hit the rod against the belt !!

I can't help you with the stock amps as I do not know about them or use them, With an aftermarket head unit I would advise to use an aftermarket amp (or amps), The problem with no audio front to back or left to right sounds like the factory amp is the problem. Yes with the antenna adapter you should receive an FM signal, does your truck have the antenna in the windshield? If so there should be 2 antenna connections behind the radio.

The motors are all different part numbers from front to rear and left and right, the regulator for the rear drivers runs about $78 from an online dealer

I would pull the regulator/motor assembly and than separate the motor from the regulator so you can check the shaft sticking out of the motor,if it looks OK than it is the regulator that is causing the problem. What I do when I need to remove the regulator is, pull the door panel and the inner plastic liner, lower the window to where you can get to the 2 bolts that attach the regulator to the glass, remove the bolts, slide the window fully up and I use wooden wedges to hold the glass up by putting them between the glass and the inner weatherstripping, than unbolt the regulator and motor from the door, unplug the motor and remove the whole assembly. Do not see the rear regulator listed on the rockauto site.

my ratio should be 4.625/1 running 31's

just remember most aftermarket decks use 2 power leads as Slartibartfast mentioned, one goes to constant power the other to a switched power source, also there is no ground wire in the factory radio harness the new radio needs to be grounded to the metal on the side of the radio, or where ever you can get a good ground from near the radio. The display on the new radio if connected properly should at least come on, it should not have anything to do with the stock amplifiers. Double check your connections before moving ahead.

From Rob on the forum, he works at a dealer. contact in this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/page-42?do=findComment&comment=687249

so are you running the 3" body lift and suspension for 35's? Like to see how they look on the pathfinder compared to how they looked on my old hardbody, yes I know the body sits higher on the HB, just curious to see the comparison