ahardb0dy

thanks was driving me crazy trying to figure it out

I'm going to look at it first, could be something stupid

FIXED !!!! FIGURED IT OUT A FEW MINUTES AGO!!! FINALLY !!! After all the head aches it turned out it was my fault, a plug that I did not re-connect when I removed the factory alarm, I saw a plug (male) hanging up under the dash when I removed the lower dash cover and I started to look around for a female plug that matched it, found one, plugged the two together and tried the locks, and they worked !!! So glad now !!!

TODAY !!!!! I JUST FIGURED OUT THAT DAMN DOOR LOCK PROBLEM !!!!!!! WOO HOO !!! LOL Also installed the snaps for the transfer case shifter boot as the carpet I just put in came out of a 2wd pathfinder, Ace Hardware sells a kit that includes 6 sets of snaps and the installation tool, (6 female, 6 male snaps), for less than $6. Now back out to put the truck together, Oh I also pulled the drivers side seat belt so I can see if there is a way to fix it, Yes I know the dealer will replace it but I'm too lazy to go to the dealer

If they have AC seats like the Cadillac xlr than I would want that, down here in FL not much use for heated seats !

Ileft it home and drove the Sentra, after putting $25 in it day before yesterday and driving to work and back 72 mi twice it's about on empty again, should have kept my V8 dakota, probably got better gas mileage !!! the Dakota, 2001, club cab 4x4 sport 4.7 V8:

yeah, don't know why one of the pics changed to a horse, wouldn't let me edit it so the horse stayed.

is the wire loose in the terminal? Or is the terminal loose where it mates with the other half of the plug? You cold try to tighten the terminal so it engages the other half (pin or whatever it is) more tightly. If the plug is bad you can get another one from another vehicle and spice it into the harness in your truck.

today I eliminated the switch as being the problem for my door locks not working, using the FSM I checked for continuity when moving the lock button to "lock" or "unlock" and I got continuity both ways so the switch is working. Also pulled the door lock timer and re-soldered the remaining solder connections that I did not do the first two times, Didn't make a difference !! Still does not work. This weekend I plan on pulling the drivers seat again to get to the wire I re-connected together that the alarm wire was tyed into to see if that makes a difference. May also make another junkyard run and grab some door lock timers.

They sell tools that are specifically made to remove the terminals (with the wirre) from connectors, but you can usually use a small flat screwdriver, like an eyeglass screw type to push on the locking tab so the terminal can be removed from the plastic connector, when re-installing you may need to pry the small metal tab so it is sticking out again, than when you press the terminal into the plastic connector far enough it will lock in place. Keep in mind most of these types of terminals are crimped very securely to the wire and usually will not be reusable.

I like Moog

today I installed my new Headlamp switch I got from Rob in my Sentra, and pulled the steering wheel in the PF to straighten it.

Rob, this is what I was looking at: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19755-fix-your-keyless-entry/

see my thread here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35469-steering-wheel-contact-ring-spacers/

The install guide is pinned in the garage section, any connections for the alarm that were not plugs, (scotch lok connections) I have put back to stock. There were 3, 2 under the steering column, one to the horn wire and one to the parking light wire I believe , the third wire connects to the door switch just rear of the fuel door release handle. Please post what ever you can I'm stumped so far with this. Thanks Rob appreciate it !!!

Thanks Rob big difference !!

Thanks, I wasn't looking on the "donor" truck to see if it was an "SE" or "LE" I happened to think the carpet looked good, lot better than what I had and pulled it. Can't be choosy when your getting it from the junkyard !

I need help with this, anyone??

thanks !! Now if I can only figure out why my door locks won't work everything would be perfect !!!!

Struck out again !!! Was following the wiring diagram and it shows the power going throught he "key in switch" I thought this may have been my problem as when I had the steering column cover off I remembered seeing a small plug that is not connected to anything, just went outside with my flashlight and pulled the lower column cover off and the "key in switch" is plugged in. Most likely it is the door lock timer and it's just a coincidence that it is acting up at the same time that I removed all the factory alarm wiring, but as I said the locks do work especially with the key, wish I had another door lock timer to swap in, next junkyard trip I will be pulling a few !!! Until than I'm looking over the wiring diagram

Well I tried two other switches I had, none of them worked the power locks, I even took one completely apart down to the circuit board and pushed on the copper levers and still got nothing, I don't know if it a door lock timer issue or I somehow lost power to the master switch for the lock section. The locks still will all lock from the window button (near the glass) and the locks will unlock and lock from outside with the key as they should. Back to the wiring diagram to see if I can find something else to check.

Not getting anything at the wire harness for the master switch, tried jumpng wires and nothing for the locks, the windows all work fine, going to storage to grab another master switch to see if it does the smae thing.

No problem, all I need to do is pick up another lock cylinder that has the metal groove in it for the lock plastic thing to sit in, I guess the non unlocking from the outside trucks used adifferent lock cylinder. I'll do it for free just cover the shipping, how much could it cost to mail a key and a lock cylinder anyway, LOL Let me know

In the FSM section if you follow the link from NICO in the parent directory under hardbody there is a manual for the 1989 Hardbody which has the TBI info in it, here is the link: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/

good fixes, fot the steering wheel contact ring problem on mine I cut 3 spacers out of copper tubing, removed the contact ring and put a spacer in each hole, than put the contact ring back on, horn and cruise works perfect now. I have a thread on this somewhere I think.