ahardb0dy

you could also buy a straight line with flared ends, a tubing bender and duplicate the stock line, but buying the stock part would probably end up being cheaper. part number 4624241G01 - $10.61 online Nissan dealer or another option get one from junkyard pathfinder

the starter grounds through the mounting bolts, you could add a seperate ground to it but from what you are describing (hitting it and it starts) it does not sound like the ground is the problem. It may be dirty inside from oil and removing it and cleaning it would probably help. There are a lot of threads on here about starter problems, I would recommend if you need to buy a new one is to contact Rob on the forum, in this topic - http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/page-39?do=findComment&comment=679267 and buy one from him, he works at a Nissan Dealer and thee starters from the dealer and a few other NEW ones seem to be the best available. When my starter was doing what you say yours is, the starter relay mod made it last another year before it finally quit, mine was doing the same thing, I went to the junkyard one day, not a short trip about an hour away, the truck started fine all morning before I went, truck sat for about an hour, I go to start it to leave and nothing !! luckily this guy (who owns a pathfinder in Hawii or somewhere) pulled up next to me, I tapped on the starter using the jack rod while he turned the key and it started right up. On the way home I made 3 stops and it started every time, went out again to hardware store, come out wouldn't crank !!! Not good when the starter does that the one day it won't start you will be miles from anyone and alone and in trouble !!

From what I just read online, the coils are there to give the line flexibility, if the line was short and straight ithe motion between the frame and body would eventually cause the line to crack.

no, you support the truck under the frame, put a jack under the control arm to take the tension off of it, loosen and remove the adjusting bolt, lower the control arm slowly, remove the "C" clip on the rear of the bar in front of the crossmember, take the rear adjuster off ( if it will come off) or hold the rear adjuster and bang on the bar with a rubber hammer, if you are replacing the bars you could actually just cut them but only if the tension is off. after the rear adjuster comes off, try to pull the front of the bar out of the front mount, same thing if it is stuck beat on the bar with a rubber hammer, wiggle the bar, what ever you have to do to get it out, once out grease the splines and re-assemble

was the bolt already loose? if not why were you messing with that bolt anyway?

Nice ! looks good

Drove it to go out for dinner, dam H4 headlights are bright as hell !!!

I agree with Nefarious, Although I don't have a stabilizer on mine, yet, you have to realize the wider the tires, and 31/10.50's ar enot really a wide truck tire but they are wider than most normal car tires, the wider the tire the more easily they will catch onto defects in the road and can cause the tuck to pull or jump to the side of the defect. Lots of members on here will tell you the stock dampener is fine that Nissan uses decent shocks but my opinion is if your going to use one get an aftermarket stabilizer, just look at the size difference for one thing.

Was just wondering if anyone has swapped in a VG33ER into a WD21?

Good suggestion !

will it start if you push and hold the shifter forward?

in my video my hardbody either had a test pipe in place of the cat, or it may have had a high flow aftermarket cat, I know when I removed the one on my sentra my MPG went up by 4 MPG

Why not just cut the harness leaving some on the plug end, than just extend each wire. I guess you want to get the whole harness out of the door, you can do all your connections under the kick panel, there may even be a plug behind there that plugs into the door harness. Just realized your probably going to use non stock switches and that's why you need to know what wire does what, my bad

Don't feel bad, I've had to go search on google for some abbreviations once in a while !

that's not limited to in here guess that's part of the texting language, 10-4?

IIRC means "if I recall correctly",

Was just going to post a "?" mark as I saw you copied what I wrote but did not reply, I have a factory service manual, on my computer for an 89 truck/pathfinder but this morning when I looked through it I did not see the section on how to check the thermo element, I know it's in the FSM I have for my 87 (paper copy), if you want the 89 FSM, PM me your e-mail and I'll send it to you.

I don't think there is a core when you buy from the dealer even though they are remanufactured, would have to double check with Rob.

Was going to tell you that you can use a drill bit slightly smaller than the size of the hole the slide pins go in to clean the holes out

Another thing that will effect the idle and could be keepin it high, just remembered because I had to replace this part on my 87 hardbody, is the wax element, (thermo element I think it is called, I'l look it up, it is I just checked), it is the wax element that the coolant runs through, when the engine is cold the wax is solid and the little plunger is pushed out against the fast idle cam on the Throttle linkage, this causes the idle to be higher when the engine is cold, as the coolant heats up it melts the wax and the plunger moves back in causing the cam to move and close the linkage (lowering the idle to normal idle), when this element goes bad it may be stuck in the high idle position causing your higher than normal idle. There is a procedure in the service manual, I have the FSM for the 87 I could scan the page later, that tells how to measure the distance the plunger moves to determine if it is working correctly. This will not trigger a code, if you remove the air cleaner housing it is on the right side of the TB, there will be 2 small (about 3/8" maybe) hoses going to this, one in, one out, check to see if there ai any sign of collant leaks in this area, you can also check the little plunger to see if it moves from when the engine is cold to when it warms up.

can you see where the water is coming from? This is a pic I took under the dash on mine when it was leaking: Is the water coming in near this main harness in the pic above? I used black silicone around the sides and bottom of my windshield

You can do the starter relay mod if you want, is the PF an automatic? if so I believe there are 2 relays one is like a safety interlock, anyway, the stock wiring requires power to go from the ignition switch to the relay on the drivers side than to the starter relay on the pass side and than down to the starter solenoid, the starter relay mod takes power directly from the battery to the starter solenoid, and uses the wire that was going to the solenoid to just trigger the relay.

Than it most likely is the relay, when it just clicks do you notice if you wiggle the ignition key will it start?

Download the FSM from here, it's free it comes in handy trust me: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ open each section, click save and put each section in a folder Should be on the pass. side behind the battery 3rd one back, blue I think, screwed into the inner fender Are the battery terminals clean? any signs of corrosion where the battery cable meets the terminals?

How are the battery terminals? tight? clean? Can you check the voltage at the battery before you try to start it, than check the voltage while it is cranking, If the starter is clicking some times and other times it doesn't and starts right up sounds like a bad connection or possibly a weak starter relay. I would take another relay the same shape and color and swap it with the starter relay and see if it still does what you are saying.