ahardb0dy

the stock speakers in the front doors were 5x7's, but the trucks came with a plastic adapter that the speaker sits in, if the truck does not have the adapter than a 5x7 will not fit right, on my 94 I used to have I took the adapters out and used 6.5" speakers, they fit fine, you just have to keep an eye on the depth of the speaker so it doesn't hit the glass, and you have to make new mounting holes, not a big deal, if you do use 6.5's ( or 6 3/4"), hold the speaker up to the door and mark the holes, pre-drill the holes with out the speaker than mount it, being careful not to slip and take out the cone with the screwdriver. Some pics below: not the best pic but the white part on the top right of the pile is the speaker adapter: this is the opening without the adapter: this was with my test speaker checking for clearance to the glass:

check it at night, spray some water from a spray bottle on it and look for arching, May not even need the water if it is arching that bad. The cap probably has a crack or the boot on that one wire has a hole in it, when you said every time you touch it you get zapped indicates to me a crack where the spark is arching against something, If the wires are original replace them as well as the cap and rotor. Does the engine feel like it has less power than it did before? If so that is a definite indication that something is arching. On my 90 sentra one of the plug wires had a hole in the insulation, when driving in 5th gear it wouldn't go over 55 MPH, found the hole in the wire was arching against the block, wrapped it with electrical tape and it ran fine, 10 minutes later it burned thru the tape and ran like crap again.

how is the fan clutch?

in that pic the wheels are straight? You have to turn the wheel fully than bolt the stabilizer to the centerlink, than turn fully the other way to make sure it doesn't limit your turning, which I'm sure you did. I had one years ago on my 87 hardbody, a rancho and never noticed it effecting the return to center.

Make sure the stabilizer is sitting level, did you install it with the stabilizer fully extended and the wheels turned so when you installed it, it was located in the correct place?

I would advise you to lay a paper towel or towel on the ground and as you remove the hub parts lay them out in the order they are removed, that way you will know how it goes back together.

We used to keep the guns set on "3", most of the guys in the shop ( including myself) all used the Ingersoll Rand IR231 impact guns, of course not all impact guns are the same some brands and models being weaker others stronger. One of our guys even had his modified to make it stronger for special occasions. Those torque limiting socket things were just coming out about the time I was working in the shop.

Way back when I worked in the 4x4 shop doing tires, I had a guy with a F250 (or F350 can't recall, had 8 lug wheels) show him that he could remove the lug nuts by hand after I had installed them using the impact gun because he was so worried that he wouldn't be able to if he had a flat or what ever, so after I finished installing and tightening all his wheels I had to take them off by hand just so he could see it wasn't impossible to do ! PITA !!

I usually just tighten my lugs with a 1/2" ratchet, every time I have the tires rotated and the shop uses the torque wrench for the final tightening the next time I have to take the wheel off for what ever reason, it always seems like the lugs aren't that tight, even though they were torqued to spec. I don't "gorilla" the lugs real tight, just seems like the correct torque isn't that tight.

just tell where ever you go what they are for so they can double check the part numbers, they had other part numbers listed, think some come bagged and others are loose so different part numbers. Make sure the lugs your wheels use are the same as what you get

you need the studs right? Either the studs or the lugs you can get from any auto parts store, the thread is 12mm x 1.25 Advance auto parts: Front - 98320.1 Rear - 98355.1 lug nut acorn style black - 99009.1 lug nut acorn style chrome - 98961.1

I agree with what Precise has said, as far as hand tools. I have a compressor ( installed in my shed at the back of the house with 1/2" schedule 80 PVC run to the front) and I have some air tools, I still have my IR 231 impact gun from back when I used to work in a shop, top quality tool but more than that whole kit you linked too. The only time I use it now a days is when I absolutely can't get a nut off by hand, or in a situation where I can't get my 1/2" breaker bar in the area I need to work on. If I'm doing brakes on someones vehicle and I know I have a bunch of lugs to remove I may use it just to save time, always double check the lug nuts by hand after tightening them with an impact gun ( using a torque wrench would be the proper way). You will most likely be better off with a decent set of hand tools, Sears has sales all the time so lots of bargains do come up, craftsman may not be as good as in the "old days" but they still have a lifetime warranty, they still replace broken tools and there are Sears stores everywhere. I would put jack stands close to the top of your list of things to buy, safety always first ! As far as air tools, air grinders use the most air, so if you plan on purchasing one, or any tool make sure what ever tool uses the most CFM that the compressor you choose can handle that tool.

RIP !

you can replace the bulb easily, Radio Shack sells one that will work, I did it on mine,

when my 94 started not starting, I did the starter relay mod and that fixed it for about a year, than I had to finally replace the starter, in the process I found the positive cable from the battery terminal to the starter the ring terminal at the starter end was almost cut in half, I replaced the whole wire with a 4 gauge cable using car audio power cable, more strands more flexible than battery cable, also added a extra ground from one of the starter mount bolts to the cross member, and replaced the battery terminals, never had a problem again, well after replacing the crap reman starter with a new aftermarket one, never had a problem again.

Check voltage at the battery while running, could be the alternator is bad and is not charging the battery.

The Falken Rocky Mountain ATS from Discount Tire I had on my 94 rode really well, very smooth and they seemed to be wearing very good, I never took the PF off road either was all highway use.

He said a Titan which is an "A60", But it doesn't matter anyway as the Titan uses a strut setup.

Stick with NGK, The Nissan engines like them and they came with NGK stock, either use the V groove or the standard,

switch. I went thru similar problems with my sentra, tried multiple junkyard switches, took them out cleaned the contacts still had the same problem, one headlight would not work the other wouldn't, smacked the switch and it would come on, flipped to high beams both would work, back to low beams one would be out. Finally bought a new switch thru Rob on here from Nissan. The OEM switch was a few dollars more than an aftermarket one, and I figured it was worth the few dollars as the original one lasted so long.

The 2 admins on the FB group are Carri and Simon

Crutchfield offers lifetime support so use it and let them know about the differences you found, they will take care of you.

those are rar. files, you have to download them than have a program to extract the files, with FAST you still have to set it up, the instructions.rar is a joke, 3 whole lines of instructions, good luck with that one !

If you liked that than look here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/nissan-hardbody-pathfinder-brochures-t575880.html

all the Wd21 FSM from 94 and up are available from the Nico link,