ahardb0dy

don't think this engine has any broken exhaust studs, normally on trucks with the exhaust stud leakage once the engine warms up the noise (ticking) usually goes away. Mine is noisy all the time.

I thought the Borla sounded good, it especially sounded good winding it out in 4 low!!, I prefer a single exhaust, when I had my 2001 dakota with the V8 I did a lot of research into the single/dual exhaust and read that a larger single exhaust will outflow a dual setup, so I went with a flowmaster cat back, it came with a large 50 series suv muffler which I ended up replacing with a 40 series as the 50 I felt was too quiet. On the dodge the kit used a 2.5" input and a single 3" output. I knew a guy way back with a 4 cylinder toyota 4x4 who ran a single 3" it sounded loud but no idea how it ran, think 3" on a 4 cyl would def. be too big. Mandrel bent pipe would also make a difference in flow.

Don't know if this is normal or not, don't recall my D21 being like this but on my 94 pathfinder I just got, after driving for a while if I open the hood the air under the hood is very hot, the cooling fan seems like it is working normally as the engine runs cool, don't know if I possibly have an exhaust leak somewhere, I may as the exhaust sounds like there is a leak just haven't found out where yet. But it just seems like the hot air (exhaust) is staying under the hood. Also there may be a leak as my buddy said yesterday that he was smelling like exhaust fumes coming into the cab thru the vents??? Going to check it today but don't think it's normal to be so hot under the hood. any feedback is always welcome, thanks

how much room is on each side of the center support? thinking of adding 2 fans to the front of the condenser/radiator

the hubs are easy to remove, here are the steps, loosen the 6 hub bolts before jacking the truck up, 7MM allen wrench jack up truck and place a jack stand next to the jack than lower the jack so the truck is sitting on the jack stand (safety first),now remove tire, finish taking out the 6 hub bolts and pull hub off, it may stick as it has an O-ring on the inside once the hub is removed you will see the end of the axle shaft, using a snap ring pliers remove the snap ring place all parts removed on a paper shop towel, pc of cardboard whatever, when you remove each part lay them on the paper/cardboard in the order you removed them so you know how they all go back on and in what order remove the flat washer remove the flat washer with tabs remove the metal cup looking part also has 2 tabs now you will see a flat washer looking part with 2 Phillip head screws in it remove the 2 screws remove the "lock washer" using a Phillips screw driver in one of the larger holes, un screw the bearing lock washer ( you are just using the screw driver to push the lock ring counter clockwise your not unscrewing a screw or anything remove the brake caliper and hang it using a bungee cord or wire so the caliper is not hanging from the rubber brake hose remove the brake pads remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts ( 2 bolts behind the rotor probably 19MM) remove the caliper bracket pull the hub/rotor assembly off, if it does not pull off easily you may have to tap the end of the axle using a rubber hammer, do not hit it hard if using a metal hammer be careful when removing the hub/rotor assembly as there is an inner and outer wheel bearing the service manual says you have to separate the tie rod to get the axle out but I don't think you have to unbolt the axle on the center section I think 6 bolts remove the whole axle assembly by lowering the inside half and maneuvering the axle so you can get it out of the spindle I would recommend just replacing the whole axle assembly they run $59 at my local auto parts and since you have to remove the axle to replace the boot might as well replace the whole axle to assemble follow the steps in reverse but make sure to wipe all the washers and stuff clean first, I would recommend downloading the factory service manual first it tells you and shows the steps and parts you need to remove. and it also tells how tight to set the wheel bearing lock nut anyone feel free to add or correct anything I posted, thanks

My truck is doing the same thing lately, starts fine when cold but if I drive a few miles go into a store or something when I come out and try to start the truck it will just lick, I turn the key a few times and it will start. I was wondering if it could be the interlock as well. Next time it doesn't start I'm going to have someone turn the key while I tap the starter to see if it works, guess if it starts right up after tapping it than that would indicate a bad starter. On my 87 hardbdody I had to replace the starter 3 times in 3 weeks !! first one a local rebuilt unit lasted 2 days, second one local rebuilt unit laster a week, finally got a beck arnely starter and it lasted until I traded the truck in years later and was still starting just fine. when removing the starter I had a 3" body lift as well, I found I had to unbolt he starter move it forward and up, than turn it so it's technically backward than pull it out, first time took over an hour 3rd time was about 10 minutes!!

No, sorry it read confusing,, I meant when I first had the exhaust done I was using a flowmaster but after the flowmaster cracked I replaced it with the super trapp muffler, a few years later when I had it redone with stainless I replaced the super trapp with the borla muffler.

Hit 3 junkyards today, left the house at 8:00 a.m. and got home around 4:30 long hot ( mid 90's) day. Found the rear inside light cover finally than realized the base needs replacement!! figures, got a transfer case shift boot (upper part) out of a hardbody, it is slightly different due to the console being different but it should work ok. Got the other window weather stripping, the pin to hold the spare tire carrier open and found the tool bag with all the tools including the 10" long spark plug socket tool all that stuff looks like it was never even out from under the rear seat, I didn't buy it but the jack rod and jack looked brand new too. I also found the glove box light and switch which I installed already and works perfectly. Pulled 3 hub bolts out to replace the one I had to cut the head off on one of my hubs, and some little bulbs and clips. Good day total cost was about $12. Found 3 pathfinders at this junkyard I was never at before 1 2 door and 2 four doors, at the last junkyard there was an 87 2 door and the paint looked like it just came from the dealer, it only had rear tires but who ever owned it was running 33-12.50's on the stock wheels with no lift!! bet they were tight!! LOL that's about it for now.

there was a big thread about the tranny coolers and someone is using 2 out of a ford car but I can't find it and am looking for the thread also. Anyone know where it is please??

I'm working on the noise in my 94 now, I replaced the sunroof gasket with a good looking used one and still have noise so I adjusted the sunroof handle/latch, that helped but still slight noise so I ran a strip of 1/4" weatherstripping on the glass where it would make contact with the sunroof gasket and that took any noise out. I had breaks in my window weatherstripping and replaced the pass. side with a used junkyard one and it took the wind noise out, just picked up the driver side gasket today, My problem is noise thru the floor as I had to cut out the carpet in front of the pass. side seat due to water damage and that black rubbery lining that runs part way up the firewall was all crumbled and all fell out. Noticed today at the junkyard ( one of 3 we went to from 8:00am to 4:30!!!!), that under that rubber lining is about 3/4" of some type of a fabric material. I'm going to use something on the firewall haven't decided what type yet.

can you describe further as to your power locks not working? I mean they don't work when turning the key in the door? pressing the power lock button on the drivers door? or pushing the actual lock down near the window? Or not at all? If they don't work with the key I know there is a type of contact in the door that clips on the lock cylinder when you turn the key outside the contact on the part of the lock cylinder that turns moves close to the contact that clips on the cylinder causing the locks to open. Please clarify further so we can help, plugs under the dash is to vague and doesn't tell us anything. Did you download the service manual for your truck from here? Even if there is not a manual for your 93 download the 94 manual everything should be the same. Thanks oh, as to a fuse looking ok but being bad, that happened to me, my brake lights didn't work, pulled the fuse and it looked fine, replaced it and the lights worked, did you check the fuses with a test light?

on my old D21 with the V6 I ran 2.25" stainless pipe with a borla SS muffler it sounded really good, I finished it off with a borla intercooled square tip, before the borla muffler I ran a flowmaster but it was when flowmaster first came out and the muffler cracked, in between I experimented with a super trapp muffler but it was a pain as the bolts for the plates would seize up.

here's a little trick to get the manual window cranks off with out any special tool, take a peice of cloth like a t-shirt, try to use something with a thn edge, pull the shirt from under the window handle holding it on each side of the handle, when you get the shirt up behind the handle it will grab the clip, just keep pulling up on the shirt until the clip comes off, this assumes the open end of the clip is facing down, if it doesn't come out turn the window crank 180 degrees and try again. To reinstall the window handle place the clip on the handle first than just push the handle back on. On some cars you can push the door panel back slightly to see which way the clip is facing. Too what someone said earlier about the radio effecting the clock, I have no radio and my clock works just fine. as to using the power antenna lead from an aftermarket headunit to turn on an amp or amps, DON'T.. most power antenna outputs will turn off when you switch from the radio to tap or cd and you will go crazy wondering why the radio works fine but the tape/cd does not. always make sure to use the remote turn on wire, usually always blue.

he takes care of me, I had him remove the 4 speed trans and install my new 5 speed and the clutch cable in my sentra and he charged me $80!!

on an aftermarket bumper it would be easier, when I had the smittybilt double tube rear bumper on my D21, I had the one with the 2" receiver, I found a pair of brackets for a non hitch double tube bumper also from smittybilt, the non hitch bumper brackets bolted on to the bumper, the hitch bumpers the brackets were welded to the bumper, anyway the pair of brackets I found had the exact contour of the one's that were welded on, so we just placed them under the hitch bumper brackets and welded them on really good, than raised the bumper 3" and had a complete set of holes that lined right up. It was still strong as I still could tow or pull stuck trucks out with it.

that's what I did last Saturday, I marked the glass where the rubber was sitting against it and than took the glass out, cleaned it real good with alcohol and than the weatherstripping I was going to use I was short a few inches so had to use this thinner stuff I had, don't know if it was too old but after I put it on and it sat out in the sun for a while the corners pulled away from it's adhesive backing and came off. The adhesive stayed on the glass really good just the rubber separated. but otherwise it's mostly sealed I can only hear just a slight amount of wind noise getting thru.

have to make one yourself for the rear

I replaced mine recently with one I got from the junkyard, the one that was in the truck had about a 7" chunk of the rubber missing, the junkyard one looked good but after swapping it, adjusting the latch and driving it still is not sealing good. I priced the gasket from an online dealer and it was about $96 !!

before any shop that knows what they are doing will charge your system they will pull a vacuum on it and let the system try to hold it before adding the freon, they shouldn't charge much to at least do the vacuum part. Any leak that it may have will show up here before any freon is put in and wasted. The guy I go to doesn't even charge to check out a car with his gauges. He just replaced my expansion valve, pulled a vacuum on it, replaced an o-ring and charged it plus replaced the master cylinder and bled it for $50!! can't beat it.

http://www.nissport.com/catalog/type.asp?EquipmentType=Products&ProductType=Gauge+Adapters

I hated that light bar when it first came out than about 8-9 years later after I sold my triple double roll bar I started to like that light bar and could not find one!!

I saw a spray on material a while back but not sure what it cost or if you need a special spray gun to apply it, going to look up some stuff later.

When I cut out the carpet on my pass. side floor (front seat) that runs up the firewall the black I guess it's insulation or sound deadening material all broke into a thousand pieces and fell out, now without that and the carpet the truck is very noisy, I want to put something back down before I replace the carpet but don't want to use dynamat as it is too expensive. Some one at work mentioned some kind of roofing material that sticks on anyone have any other suggestions? trying to keep costs down. thanks

the belt may have been squeaking cause it's wore out, it may have a glazed look to it. It may be tight now but it could still be slipping. I would test the output of the alternator using a multimeter or take it to an auto parts store and have them test it. Also visually check the condition of the belt and replace it if needed.