ahardb0dy

Can a cone type filter be clamped right onto the metal that is right before the MAF sensor? I'm talking about the area in pic below: anyone know what diameter that is off hand?

on my old 87 hardbody when the holes for the compression rod got all ob longed, I had a machine shop cut me 4 square pieces of metal, not sure of thickness 3/16 or 1/4" maybe, and instead of drilling the holes he punched the holes thru the metal, than I had a friend of mine weld the plates on front and back.

I never said it was "right" just what the Honda guys do

BF Goodrich does not make a 14.50" tire in a 31", you would have to go up to their 36,39.40 or 42" tires to get a 14.50"

Any idea what the specs were on the cams that Jim Connor Racing were selling back in the day?

mo you have to do what the Honda guys do and leave the cover off

This applies to the rear window with the defroster lines, I know about the garbage bag with spraying the glass with ammonia, Simple green, etc. but does that only work when the actual tint is still on the glass? Last night I removed 99.75% of the tint material but now have to remove the glue without messing up the defroster lines, my Sentra was easy as I just used a razor blade not caring about the lines but want to try to keep the lines intact if possible as it works. Thanks

make sure the white wire with the pink stripe in the middle of the plug has power to it when the key is on. If not, remove the sill plate to the front door on whatever side has the window that won't operate, find the white/pink wire and see if it has power with a test light,

I take it the windows wouldn't roll up at the individual doors either? On my 94 I took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts but am still looking for a drivers door switch as my pass. front window will roll down from the drivers side but doesn't want to roll back up all the time.

so If I have a good battery and good connections I should try replacing the solenoid first?

thanks, what problem are you having with yours? I feel like an expert after diagnosing mine for 2 days in a row, LOL

Heard on the radio today this weekend the one junkyard I go to (LKQ) is having a half price sale on any part, so I may see if I can get over there. Only bad thing is I only saw one pathfinder there and it was a 2 door, might have been another one but not 100% sure.

I'm still looking for the rubber boot for mine, have yet to find one that doesn't look like it was put thru a shredder, if I find one I'm putting it on mine but any other one after mine your welcome to have.

not the type of bumpers you are talking about here but I got an e-mail back from the shop I e-mailed last night, he said they still make rear tube bumpers for the pathfinders, they have 2 different styles and I have included pics below, He thought i was asking about a tube winch bumper for the front but I replied with a pic of my old Pro Zap to see what he says about making one like that. The shop is only 16 miles away from me so I will swing over there one day to see what they got. No prices yet on the tube bumpers maybe tomorrow. Funny thing is the guy that responded is the same guy I used to talk to like 15 years ago!!

thanks, maybe I'll take it to my mech buddy and let him have the fun, ha ha.

are you referring to the gauges in the dash of my 87? if so, on my 87 hardbody the metal plate behind the glove box is only a straight vertical plate so the top inside of the glove box area was plastic, I had to cut some of the plastic out just to get my hand in there to attach the gauges to the dash, I had an upholstery shop cut the holes and they told me they broke 3 blades cutting the holes, no idea what kind of cutter they used. On my 94 pathfinder the metal plate is "L" shaped and covers the rear and top of the area behind the glove box so there may be more clearance to get behind that area. As for ducts there was nothing in the way in my 87 not sure on the pathfinder. The holes the shop cut into the dash were so close to the gauge size (2 5/8 autometer) the gauges didn't really need the mounting brackets but I used them anyway, only thing I really wanted to do was angle them somehow to make them easier to read while driving. The truck that gave me the idea to put the gauges there originally had 3 gauges mounted into a panel than installed in the dash, I'm guessing the owner cut a large square hole that would have allowed all3 gauges to fit than secured the plate somehow, I decided just to have 3 holes cut separately. I will pick up that part if I go this weekend, if not it will definitely be in 2 weeks depends on my funds.

this was taken from the "how to install manual hub thread" "One thing I'd add to this is that the 87-89 Pathys have 27 spline front axles while the 90-95 Pathys have 28 spline axles, so they don't interchange. " so they should work

the easiest way sounds like to just replace the bulb socket with one that will accept a 1157 bulb and run a wire from the new socket to the existing turn signal

ok, got a brand new battery, the starter was on the engine when I bought it, JDM engine, should have kept the original starter not looking forward to replacing it, I still remember the first time I replaced the starter in my 87 hardbody and as everyone keeps saying the hardbody has the 2" taller body mounts!!

you can't take anything from your auto hubs to make the older manual hubs work, you said it already the splines are different, since you didn't pay for them I would just try to sell them to someone with an older truck and use the money toward the right set of manual hubs.

I used to have one made by proZap, and they are actually still in business, but just got off the phone with them and they no longer make anything for the Nissan's, I even asked about doing custom work and the guy said he doesn't even have the patterns anymore, oh well. NEXT!! I have a shop local to me that makes roll bars and tube bumpers going to e-mail them or call them tomorrow to see what they say. just sent them an e-mail will report back with what they say

this is the list so far, correct me if anything is wrong: 4WD shifter from a HB AIV cannister ( for an 89??) blue center console Driver side vent cover thing (I know what you want) 5 speed console from a 98 pathfinder

My pathfinder (94) has decided to only start when it wants to, usually it will start first thing in the morning than after driving it for a while and shutting it off it won't start, no cranking just clicks, if I hold the key forward to crank for a few seconds sometimes it will just start, found the negative on the battery was loose yesterday and tightened it thinking that was the problem but it did it again today. Does this sound like the starter is getting ready to quit? or possibly could be something else? thanks

I just wanted to be able to monitor certain things, not important at all. the 3 gauges were oil pressure, trans temp and the 3rd was originally water temp but removed that one and put in a vacuum gauge, just to fill the hole

same dash I had in my 87 hardbody, you should put some gauges in like I had in mine, pic below: