ahardb0dy

picked up a new fan clutch Saturday, the old one was definitely shot, the little coil spring was tightly wound even when it was cold, new one was unwound, but when I rev the engine I can hear that the fan is moving air. Haven't driven it on the road with the new fan clutch yet.

I see a lot of pathfinders that have the factory driving lights in the bumper, but don't see anything about them in the FSM, wanted to know if the lights use a relay and if so where are they normally mounted? I removed the driving light switch and harness from my center console, don't recall where it was connected to, but was thinking of re-using it for my grille lights, any one have any info on this?

I've seen that type in the junkyard, it has a straight slot with little frills like you said, the other type I've seen and had on my 87 Hardbody had a round hole that fit around the shifter, with the 3" body lift the second type would pull the shifter out of 4 low sometimes guess that is why we have to mod the shift lever, don't see any problems occurring with the first type

yes the left and right bars need to be installed in the left and right spot even when they are new when I re-indexed mine I had a hard time removing the bar from the front socket, I used a hammer (rubber I think) to hit the bar as I pulled on it towards the rear, a couple wacks and it finally released

no, to both products you listed, you need urethane such as this: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Super-Fast-Urethane---Black-%2810-5-fl--oz-%29-3M_6012418-P_N3239_T|GRP2034____ this auto parts store also sells it in a caulking tube size and is what I would recommend as it will be easier to apply using a caulking gun here is the specifics for this product: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UuZjcFSLXTtmxf6nxMEEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666-- one thing if you do use urethane of any type, wear gloves!! the smallest little spec of it on your hands will manage to spread it self all over everything and anything your hands even come near !!

what looks crooked? which pic?

have any of you ever tried to see if they adjust forward as well? I didn't know mine did it until I tried it. Mine have 4 clicks from vertical to forward leaning

what ever wire you use for the trigger of a relay will not fry or overload anything, the relay trigger only requires milli amps of power to turn the relay on. You can wire your lights with the relay as normal but tap into the parking light wire for the trigger, you can also wire the trigger to a switch (at the same time) so you can turn the lights on without the parking lights if you wanted too. the second way is good for reverse lights so you could turn them on when not in reverse for say setting up a camp site or whatever.

but the heat gets tired after a while when wearing shorts!!

did you check out my links? The TB's on that site are all brand new and cheap, as an example I bought a brand new in the Nissan crate 5 speed tranny for my 90 sentra that listed for over $1500 and got it for $450 DELIVERED!!

So do I, the whole reason for converting the headlights to the Hardbody style was so I could mount my grille with the lights, but due to clearance problems I was unable to install the lights grille at this time, but I'm working on it, thanks

don't forget about the hot air too !!!

I have yet to find the rubber one in any condition other than crappy at any of the local junkyards, and I'm still looking !!, I did find the top leather one but it came out of a pickup and it is different than the pathfinder one.

thanks !! well until I work out the clearance problems with my grille with the lights, (I have an idea,LOL), and since I now do not have a factory hardbody grille I decided to install my other "hardbody" grille, I know it needs some new paint, and I know it says "hardbody" in the center but I have to use what I have on hand, actually looking at these 2 pics you can't really see if it's a PF or a pickup, LOL so a few pics: the idea I have is to cut out the holes in this grille, but towards the center a little so I can mount the 2 lights from the other grille, the problem I had is the left light is hitting the accumulator /drier and the right light is hitting the fitting for the condenser causing the grill to not fit correctly. I already did a mock up of one of the lights in a sheet of plastic to see how far it sits forward and to measure the total depth, think it should work.

well if the 3.0 and the 2.4 use the same TB than I have a source for cheap new TB stuff, not sure if they are the whole unit or not but will post a link, all you have to do is send them an E-mail requesting a price, including the part number, the guy's name is Norman, he is really good guy, just give him a few days to get back to you sometimes they are busy, generally prices are about 80% off of the MSRP web site is http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/index.htm direct link to the truck page with the TB parts is: http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/truck1.htm under the picture of the item it says "inventory status" just put your mouse pointer over that and it will tell you how many they have left

Is it a 3.0?

don't worry about it, after I wrote that reply I looked at the ones in my PF, they are the same as the window ones

yes, my grill came with the lights. I don't recall if the grille was advertised for trucks without AC or as I said if the earlier trucks may not have had the accumulator/drier mounted in the exact location it is on the 4 door PF's, I was just looking at different lights trying to find a thin light that would fit in the openings in my grille, even if I find a normal mounting type light I could always rig up some brackets to mount them in the grille openings. Thinnest so far has been a PIAA (think PIAA stands for expensive,lol!!) model # 540 at 2.5" deep. My grille lights are 6.25 round and that is about the size of the opening also. Have to see how thick those BMW headlights are I saw at the junkyard in a 525 series, they look to have a very similar mount, I think the lights in my grille are kind of unique in how they mount where they can be adjusted left to right and up and down, which is nice. I was also thinking about mounting these in my other "Hardbody" grille, these lights are a flush mount, dual bulb adjustable up to 7 degrees up or down, at the 4x4 shop I used to work at we used to mount these in the rear doors of suburbans and other similar vehicles as a back up light, pic below

3 more points to this procedure: 1. The torsion bars are left and right and should be labeled/stamped on the end they should not be re-installed on the opposite sides 2. Make sure the thicker adjusting nut goes on first the smaller nut is just like a lock nut to prevent the larger nut from loosening, I know its pictured like this above but the previous owner of my 94 PF had them reversed and a tranny shop that worked on the tranny in my 87 only had the smaller nut on!! needless to say one day coming home the nut stripped out and the whole side of the front end fell!! So pay attention to what you are doing for your own safety !!! 3. I like to coat the splines with grease, it may not assist the bars function but will make removing them later on easier. installing new bars is the same procedure as adjusting, just replace your old bars with the new ones paying attention to the left and right stamp on the end of the bar.

the tab's below the lights? Do you mean the lower mounts for the grille? If so they are all broken off on my "lighted grille", Do all the different year pathfinders have the accumulator/drier in the same place? what about the Hardbody's? My 87 I bought without AC living in NY I figured I had 5 windows that opened and wouldn't need it so I don't know where the drier would have been mounted. Also the lights in my grille are just inside of the headlights are yours that close? Lastly what fog lights are you using and how deep are they? The lights in my grille mount from the rear in s 3 corners and are on springs so when you adjust the mounting screw in the front they "pivot" so you can aim them, the more you tighten the screw the more thread of the bolt sticks out the rear which is also hitting the accumulator/drier. You have any close up pics of you grille? I also noticed the slight gap between the end of the grille and the corner lights and thought the hardbody corners were different.

Well I went out today and bought a pair of sealed beam headlights, removed the pathfinder headlights, bolted the hardbody headlight buckets on, installed the headlights, all was going very smooth, until I came to putting my grille with the lights in it in, My 87 hardbody that had this grille in it before did not have AC, now when I went to put it in the pathfinder the left light is hitting the accumulator/drier !! I took the bracket for the drier off and tried to move it out of the way as best I could but it is still in the way, even tried to move the metal behind it back slightly to give the light some more room, I finally got the grille mounting screws in but the grille is sticking out slightly on the bottom and since it is kind of bowed out on each side of the light, it isn't fitting properly around each headlight. So I may use the other grille I have from a company that used to be around named "candy's", only thing is the other grille says "Hardbody" in the center which is fitting as that is my name, lol. In the mean time I'll be looking for a pair of thinner lights. took 2 pics quickly before: Oh I discovered the pass. side bumper was missing one nut and the other 2 were very loose, so when I took the 2 nuts off I took some time and straightened the bumper and adjusted the bumper bracket so the bumper studs would line up with the bracket, looks a little better now just have to give it a coat of paint, also removed the factory driving lights. here is a crappy pic of the other grille:

when I had my 87 Hardbody I had thought of using some type of long channel or "C" rail to run between both body mounts, from one side to the other but ended up just getting the trailmaster body lift with the aluminum blocks, don't know if there would be enough room to run a length of metal between the 2 mounts but thought it would help stiffen everything up. I like the idea of moving the body mounts up higher on the frame and to eliminate the block all together, and still being able o use the stock length bolts, you will just have to make sure each one is raised the same amount and that who ever does the welding knows what they are doing and can make good welds.

just paint it flat black, that way if you get a scratch you just spray over the top of it, or better yet primer

according to the FSM there is a "key reminder relay" # 336M page EL-46 of the 94 FSM, that can probably be unplugged, that may just disable the key chime.

You could probably crank the torsion bars to get 3" but it will probably ride like crap (control arms sitting on the bump stops) not to mention the angle that you will put the cv axles at will cause premature wear, I would say 2" is about the most you should raise the front end. The other problem with going higher is it makes it harder to be aligned. new torsion bars are a good idea if yours are original as the stock one's may not hold in the amount of lift when you crank the bars.