ahardb0dy

sorry, the 2 brown ones in the bottom of this pic, to the right of the hood latch:

not sure if that torsion bar number translates directly over to the same number that the coils are rated at

I noticed on my 94 there are 2 small brown plugs up under the upper radiator support, I saw one at the junkyard that was running to some sensor mounted on the hood latch brace and also noticed that that particular PF had the automatic HVAC controls and the trucks that had the manual HVAC controls didn't have the sensor, any idea than what the other plug is for? And what is that sensor? ambient air temp or something?

FSM says the torsion bars are 144.5 lb/in

I was thinking of doing this a while ago but never did, probably won't do it now either but wanted to ask. Anyone ever remove the torsion bars and mount a set of coil overs/struts like the newer trucks use?

did that adapter bolt right up to the MAF sensor or did you have to modify it at all?

you have to treat it as it's a vehicle you just bought, if you don't know when it was done last, just do it. With the write up on here just get the parts and follow the writeup, it isn't that hard to do.

go back up to the post before my pictures, I used the second one in the stock accordion tube, are the grommets integrated or do they come out?

what I would do, I know it would be kind of a pain in the butt, if you suspect the cover is making the noise, put it back together without the lower or all the covers and run it and see if the noise goes away.

if your mechanic insists his truck has a metal belt and he says it is the V6 than I suggest finding a new mechanic

removed the glass today, layed it flat on a table and sprayed WD40, ammonia, purple power even tried brake fluid seeing how that can take paint off, all the different chemicals separately of course, tried scrubbing it with a scotch brite pad than really fine steel wool, the crap on the glass just laughed at all of them !!! ended up saying f-ck it and scraped all of it off defroster lines and all. If it gets bad enough down here in Florida that I need the defroster I'll pick up another glass but for now I am just glad to be able to see thru it finally, (that is until I have it re-tinted!!) I think it was a second layer of tint the way it scraped off but if it was there was no glue residue on the glass, and if it was only glue it was darn good glue at that !!!

for new the only place I know of would be the dealer, here is a link from an online dealer with the part number and suggested and actual cost: 1350012G00 $58.95 $0.00 $44.21 Engine - Engine parts - Lower timing cvr Lower timing cvr - 6 cylinder 1987 - 1995 for cheaper I suggest the junkyard or someone that may have a used one laying around, I just threw all the covers out sorry

both of the adapters you 2 used must have been the larger one than the one I bought,a s you can see in your pics the edges of the adapter looks to be larger than the MAF sensor, mine is way smaller but the adapter flange itself is about 2.75 inches diameter. What did you do with that straight pipe? drill the holes for the grommets and mount all the stock hoses the same as factory? When I had my 2001 Dakota I had read that just replacing the accordion pipe with a straight pipe made it a lot easier to get the incoming air in. I plan on trying to get my other K&N installed the Apollo model, there may not be enough room to run the inlet tube to behind the bumper but it is enclosed so it's supposed to help with the hot under hood air getting into the filter, have to get a smaller coupling than the one I have now, the Apollo filter inlet actually will go inside the adapter I used on the MAF sensor right now. a lot louder with the open element filter though isn't it????

if the starter works in the store, when it's cold I presume, can you possibly have them test it while it's hot? Maybe heat it up before you bring it in to them? Your starter has to be on it's way out if it doesn't start when it's hot as I have never heard of heat soak effecting the Nissan starters, usually those heat blankets are for Chevy's. also if it is the solenoid you can just replace that although you probably have to pull the whole starter to replace the solenoid and may just want to replace the whole thing if you have to pull it for the solenoid. I would explain it to the guy/gal in the store, that it doesn't start when it's hot, if the starter is still in the truck maybe get it hot under normal operating conditions and have the guy come out to see that it doesn't start when it's hot, just an idea.

I'll tell you me and my buddy were talking about the sun roof shade and he was saying how it would help, but that black stuff they have on the glass does block out a lot of the sun as when I put my hand on the glass in the middle of the day down here in Florida it wasn't even hot.

mine is worse, AC not cooling below 54, no tint, black also, left a thermometer in truck the other day and it was up to 140 degrees !! My sentra with tint (20%) got up to 118

they may look the same but different part numbers, with the holiday weekend will probably not get a price on either one for a few days

no offense meant, myself I'm not looking to gain any HP, I just need a new fan clutch and am exploring other options, If there was room I would keep the mechanical fan and add a pusher fan in front but there is very little room

the other mount is bigger I think, 4" compared to 3" , but it worked out. Going to see if I can find an adapter to go from the new adapter I put together today to the K&N Apollo filter, the Apollo is enclosed may cut down on some of the hot under hood air

with manual hubs when they are locked they are locked, yes you can't just shift into 4wd with manual hubs like you can with auto hubs but with the manual ones if you think you may need 4wd you can always lock them but keep the transfer case in 2wd, than when you need 4wd you just shift it into 4wd being the hubs are locked already

I'm going to stick with the floor mount also, just will have to move it a little to fit the 98 console, think it will be less work than using the dash E-brake, just wanted to see if anyone did that before

that looks good but with an automatic the shift hole area is the wrong shape, I'll stick with the 98 console and see how it turns out, thanks for the link

got a pic of one??

last two times I filled up my 94 I averaged 16.9 & 17.6 MPG that's with worn out 31's and an automatic trans, my O2 sensor has not been changed yet either

Just tried using some WD40 and the glue or whatever it is just laughed!! Now I'm not sure if it is actually glue or a second layer of tint, I scraped some off on the very bottom where their is no defroster lines and it scrapes off just like tint, but it must be glue as after I scraped some off the window is totally clear underneath. Going to take the whole window out so I can lay it flat and let the WD40 sit on it, instead of running down the glass.