ahardb0dy

Warn is pretty good with warranty/replacement parts. I got mine from the junkyard and needed some parts and they sent them to me for free and not even being the original purchaser ! Think that's pretty good of them

Have you checked for any codes in the computer?

A 4runner??? How dare you !! LOL

See this for the different alternator specs: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30496&st=0&p=578772&fromsearch=1entry578772

try a store that sells wheels and tires, we used to remove them for people at my old job occasionally. I have the locking lug nut removal set myself. I would try tapping a socket on the lugs.

Trailmaster used too sell a BL kit with aluminum blocks, I had one in my hardbody

Very Nice, would be better in a two tone say white and pink, right Nunya??

I don't know why the body lift companies just don't give a longer steering shaft in the kits, when I did the 3" body lift in my hardbody the Trailmaster kit I used came with a longer shaft.

When you move the steering wheel up and down and side to side and it moves, is it just the steering wheel that is moving? If so it is possible it is the bearing under the steering wheel. If you pull the steering wheel you will see it. No idea if Nissan sells this bearing.

the numbers mean for every turn of the wheel (ring gear in the axle) the pinion gear will turn a certain number of times, for ex. 4.62:1, pinion gear (driven by driveshaft) makes 4.62 revolutions the ring gear (wheel) will turn 1 time, hence the 4.62:1

Most aftermarket alarms will have a ignition kill, usually the installer will cut the thick wire inside the steering column covers, if you remove the covers look for a thick wire that has been cut with butt terminals on each end of the 2 wires, most likely each side of the cut wire will run down to the alarm module, to put it back to stock, just join the 2 wire halves back together.

I wasn't specific enough?? LOL

Final update, got the new lock face caps today, finished re-keying the door and hatch locks on the PF, so now both vehicles use the same key for all locks and ignitions!, Nice not having multiple keys on each key chain for 2 vehicles !!

Finally got the lock face caps today from locksmith, got totally raped on the price but couldn't find them anywhere else, paid $4 each for 3, saw them online wholesale for 10 for $11 !!, Oh well, installed the new face cap on drivers side door lock and re-installed, removed pass. side door lock, took apart, cleaned everything, re-keyed it, new face cap, re-installed. Removed hatch lock, same as last one, re-installed it, also found out why I couldn't lock and unlock the hatch from the key, the rod came off the lock, so fixed that as well. So the pathfinder and sentra re-key project is now complete and both vehicles, ALL LOCKS and ignitions use the same key! Was a good day!!

My 94 was doing the same thing, just clicking when I tried to start it. First I would make sure the terminals on the battery are clean and free of corrosion and TIGHT, if this doesn't help than see below: Before replacing the starter I would try the starter relay modification, I did it on mine a year ago and it hasn't clicked once since doing it. Basically what you do is wire a relay to control the starter using the original wire that goes to the starter solenoid as the trigger wire. What you are doing is allowing power to go a shorter path directly from the battery to the solenoid, relay would wire like this, (numbers correspond to numbers on relay) #30 - power in, from battery thru a fuse to relay #85 - ground, from relay to a ground, I usually will connect a short wire from the ground terminal on the relay up to the relay mounting screw. #87 - output, to starter solenoid #86 - trigger (control current in), from original starter solenoid wire that's it worked for me and is still working, starts every time on the first try, no more clicking.

I think the VG30 has this ball also, I know my sentra engine does, when ever I replace my oil filters I always wipe the mounting service down before installing the new filter, it is easy at this time to press in on the little ball to make sure it still is "springy" and to tell if the ball is still there.

Spray some silicone down the rubber tracks also, soak them, the heat down here and not rolling the windows down will cause the tint on the glass ( if you have tint) to stick to the rubber.

Can't speak for the VG30 but when the knock sensors were bad on the Q45 we had the thing couldn't get out of it's own way !! Couldn't even break the tires lose power braking it. I guess the computer really retards the ignition when they are not working. When I replaced them and the harness the Q felt like a new car, went from Yugo acceleration to feeling like a Corvette!! Could really tell it had 317 HP (factory under rated at 287 HP)!

WOW, Florida members on here all of a sudden!! Did you sell the tires yet? Let me know as I need 4 also.

No it was black, I was reading on another forum and a lot of people mention to use the toyota front axle, maybe the one in the pic is a toyota axle, and why there is no front drive shaft as the pumpkin is on the wrong side ? I believe the guys name is Gator?

I did a search on doing a SAS last night on Google, mostly because I was hoping a guy's name (or truck's build thread) I met down here would come up, I lost contact with him and was trying to see if I could find the name of the shop that did his conversion. He had a frontier but I was curious on who did the job.

So you pulled the relay and jumped 2 of the pins, you may have jumped the power in to the output which would cause the clutch to engage, when you turn the AC on do you hear that relay click? have someone turn the AC on and try to listen or feel the relay to see if it is working. Try another relay in it's place (most Nissan relays if the same color are the same). Even though jumping the 2 pins made the Compressor engage does not mean it is a bad relay, it still may not be getting power into the relay to turn the relay on, there should be 4 wires going into the relay: 12 volts in, 12 volts out, control current in (turns relay on) and a ground. that's why you need to check each wire with a test light. couple of other things that were mentioned above: if the freon is low the low pressure switch on the drier will prevent the compressor clutch from engaging, easiest way to test this is to unplug the low pressure switch and jump the 2 pins with piece of wire, if the clutch engages probably low on freon. when you jumped what ever you did and got the compressor to come on did the light in the AC switch come on? If not the little bulb may be blown.

Excuse me if this has been posted already, I just found it, SAS kit for the pathfinder/hardbody: http://www.the-compound.com/nissan-sas-info/

thanks, nope no owners manual, have the FSM (actually have a whole bunch for different years and vehicles), but didn't look it up as it only happened one time.

you don't need a multimeter just get a cheap test light, but if you have a Harbor Freight tools near you they have a multimeter for $5,