silverton

You don't need to tune your ECU for cold air. The sensors do that already.

5 is on the passenger side. If the noise lessens as you turn the distributor I wonder if you're hearing a knock from it being WAY out of time. Make sure the mechanical timing is set perfect before checking compression or else you'll be wasting your time.

The auto isn't much of a whiner. And if it were low on fluid it doesn't function properly. extra triple hard, or soft, shifts. shifting at random times for no apparent reason, or not engaging overdrive. those kinds of things would make me suspect the transmission fluid is the problem. But the front and rear differentials can whine if they are lacking fluid. If you're having a hard time engaging 4wd your transfer case could be low.

Assuming is bad. The O2 sensors are one of the pivotal components to ensuring that your engine is running properly. Your truck maye has 3, but probably 4 O2 sensors being a V6 and in the correct configuration. You have a primary O2 sensor for both left and right banks. These are the ones that ensure the air/fuel mixture is proper. When a primary O2 is bad it is no longer measuring the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream and can not adjust fuel trims properly. With one working O2 sensor, and one not working O2 sensor the ECU could think that the amount of oxygen going in to each bank is wrong and might think the throttle position sensor is not telling the ECU the proper information. Then you have the secondary O2 sensors which on some vehicles work with the primary to ensure that the fuel trims are at peak efficiency. But in most cases they just monitor the condition of the catalytic converters.

Wiggle the ignition key in the lock why pulling the latch.

If the belt broke you would have to be the luckiest guy in the known universe to have not bent a valve or three. And judging on your experience with this shop so far, find a different one. Broken belt = bent valves, guaranteed. Especially if you kept trying to start it.

the TPS isn't something that can be cleaned. Sometimes you can get a code from other components being messed up. I recommend replacing the O2 sensors, resetting the codes and wait to see if it comes back.

I also advise you replace those relays with Bosch units. Grab a handful from a Nissan in the junkyard. Don't need to do it now of course but cheap relays won't last. If they aren't proud enough to put their name on it......

To be honest, I don't like the pickup swap on my truck, other than having kickass lighting. If I had known that LHD Euro lights were so cheap I would have went that route instead. Derek, I highly recommend staying away from anything with a plastic lense, those Anzo units look cheesey and exactly like the supercheap ebay units. If I were you I'd buy those Euro lights on the auction that Garret posted, especially being that they are meant for LHD traffic and the H4/9003 bulb is superior to the 9004 in every way.

check out some silvia sites as well. People are always putting RB's in their S13/14/15

There is no frame on your 1996 Pathfinder, it's designed and built like a car. If you were rear ended at anything harder than walking speed, it's more than likely totaled. A good way to check if anything is bent too badly is inspect where the door frames meet with the body. Gaps should be even and no air should be able to get in to the cabin, also there should be no added difficulty in the opening and closing of the side doors.

The solenoid is built in, you'll need to replace the whole unit. It is a difficult job in a 4x4 equipped Pathfinder. Easiest to do if you can remove the passenger side motor mount, which involves having something to support the engine from the top. If that's not a feasible plan of action you need to shimmy the starter out of the front. Essentially you work it pass the motor mount and underneath the alternator. Installation is reverse of removal. Good luck!

just some regular ole plumbers tape on the threads should do you. Don't over tighten though on reinstallation, easily broken, then you're in a whole other heap of trouble.

Not without referencing an FSM. I've done so little OBD1 trouble shooting lately. I've hardly so much as driven my pathfinder over the last year (~500 miles) let alone try and fix any of its problems. Aside from the exhaust so I could take it through emissions anyway.

This is where you need MATHS! Low beam headlights are normally on a 10 amp circuit. Low beam headlights are around 55 watts. multiply that by two and you get 110 watts. On a 12 volt system with a 10 amp fuse, that allows for 120 watts. W(atts) = A(mps) x V(olts) So 10 amp for low beam, 15 amp for high beam, then figure out how many watts the electric motors in the levels require

If the O2 sensor is so buggered it tells the ECU to lean way out because it's sending a non-existant rich scenario. It could make the cylinder's knock JUST enough to make the sensor throw a code while not fudging performance too terribly.

Why? Take your Pathfinder alternator with maxima pulley back! the monkey's behind the counter aren't going to know the difference.

That was going to be my guess. the crank angle sensor is essentially inside the distributor with a metal disc with 360 slits and 6 slots and a laser. It's the laser that fails.

We live in a society now that when something breaks, we throw it away and buy a new one! A friend of mine had a Samsung TV for a year and it died. They sent her a check for the amount she paid for it so that she could buy a new one, instead of dealing with the hassle of shipping the TV to replace a $30 part.

I'd do what Adam suggested. clear the codes and wait for the light to come back on, and check again. A bad O2 sensor could cause the knock sensor code to be given.

Well driving with your lights on isn't going to make the alternator live a short life. Must have been a defective unit.

Spend the extra bit of coin and get Rancho's.

Doubt it. It's a 25 year old truck. Things like that do not last forever.

Similar things can happen with halogen's yes, but, it's not near as disabling as being forced to look at the arc of an HID bulb. Yeah, that's what BMW's do. I had a friend with one and everytime he started it, the lights would dip super low and come back up.

This was my exact thought when I saw that SVD. Special Vehicle Division? haha! Anyway, you can get that bodykit from classicgarage.com Save 10% by using coupon code SUPRAGROUP