DJ Dank

Saw this listing on Seattle's craigslist and followed the link to the dealers site. Who's Pathy? Its got sliders and a tube style bumper/winch...I was like nick1736 or something like that...I know he's in the Seattle/Tacoma area...

I agree with FUELER...its hard to gauge exactly the level of bass you're looking for without actually being there listening to Dean's speakers. I have never suggested this because I've always been a 12+" guy ...::snicker:: but maybe an 8" sub? would take the least amount of space in terms of box and might give you a little more bass you're looking for.

Get some 6.5 Component speakers. If you're willing to spend the money, get some MB Quart's. I own a pair and they are awesome. Best there is. You have a separate tweeter and a 6.5 speaker also with a crossover. Like these... Ebay

Yeah I found some black ones in my basement the other day. They were left over's from the first run. Black wasn't as popular as the white. Would sell them if anyone is interested.

I totally get what you're saying. When I was writing the post, I was picturing downward travel of the shock as upwards travel in terms of the actual body of the vehicle. Like when you go over a big speed bump too fast, its when the front of the vehicle is rising/going upwards that you will hear the topping out but in essence that translates to downwards travel of shock. I can see how my explanation can sound confusing. Hell it even confused me.

Its called topping out. With the front struts, you keep the same length as the stock struts compared to getting longer shocks to increase travel in the rear. Just remember, you're not increasing any travel up front. IE, Lets say with stock struts, you have 4 inches downward travel and 4 inches upwards travel when its sitting level, well when you lift the front, you're increasing the downward travel by 2 inches via the AC lift and losing 2 inches of upwards travel. So you have 6 inches of downware travel and 2 inches of upwards travel. Get the picture? There's been lots of posts about this along with also people's fright when they first hear their struts topping out. Just gotta take it easy over speed bumps and pot holes. But Orange is right, over time, the coils will settle and this won't be such a big issue anymore. Enjoy the lift!

Revolutionary!!! I wouldn't recommend that way for R50's because I went that route before I got my JWT and had no where to put the vacuum hose that I unplugged from the stock airbox and just zip tied it to hold it tight. But the threw the CEL. The JWT has a vacuum port where you can plug in the hose. This took care of the CEL.

You should never believe anything you read on Ebay. People will use whatever descriptions they can to try and entice potential buyers to bid on their auction. My 98 is extremely RARE because I have an 03 SE rack.

Is that true for a 97? IIRC the 96/97 had the canister under the hood? Mine was under the rear bumper but I remember reading posts about earlier r50's having it under the hood.

lewis is right about the Vent control vavle. I threw a P0440 along with another code I can't remember which one but it was defined as "Vent control valve stuck open" or something along the lines of it. If you did a search for p0440 on this board or the AC you'll see my posts about it. I ended up taking the vent control valve off from the charcoal box and tested it by adding a positive current to see if it actually is moving. If you look straight into the sensor down a narrow tube you'll see it. My was rusted open. I believe too many water crossings and similar type behavior was the culprit. I sprayed some WD40 on it and tested it again and saw the valve opening and closing. That was over a year ago and I have yet to see the SES light come on since.

Not too shabby. Now you need a lift, tires and some lights to put on that grill guard.

Yeah I'm all about whitewalls IN.

That looks great. How about some details? Price?

You think this may be NPORA's version of AC's rookiebuilder?

Yeah here in Montana we're at 4656 ft elevation and the I got with the 85.5 low grade unleaded at a nice price of $2.47/gal.

Not sure about the strut # as I went with a KYB strut which is for stock height. The rear shocks I have the RS9000x's. The part # for that is RS99116. I got mine from Amazon.com when they had a special for $40 off any auto purchase over $150 and free shipping. Ended up paying $60 a shock shipped.

Are you looking for just a part # for the rancho struts or the rear shocks also?

Yeah I'll go check it out! Very tactful, the way you approached this topic as we've seen lots of people try to steer people to their own clone of a pathfinder or related site! **EDIT: From the original "A VG Community" Topic

I removed my tow hooks and mounted the grill guard in the same holes.

Thats crazy man. At least you were able to drive it far enough to get it towed. You should definitely get it lifted now!!! What more of a sign do you need?????

Yeah I've triple checked the connections this weekend. Always fun to tear apart your dash and have to remove panels/carpet to route wires. Not sure what to think about the HU because it IS brand new. At this point I'm stumped.

So I recently swapped out my old Clarion unit with a Clarion 755MC. Everything seemed to go fine reconnecting the main wires onto the new wiring harness and replugging the subwoofer RCA, Front/Rear RCA plugs into the appropriate outputs on the Clarion. But I can't seem to understand why only the left side speakers are working. I've checked the Balance on the deck, its set right at the middle. Nothing has changed in terms of wiring from the current amp to the speakers, only a HU swap. Any ideas?

Hmmm...another R50 with a Safari snorkel? And I see a NAOS sticker too... Sweet ride too. :bow: