Simon

Where did you get this CV axle? Can you not return it, and get the right one for your vehicle?

And hers is in the back.

There should be a rubber pad about mid way up each fender that stop the hood from doing this. If you don't have them, pull them off one of your 456 parts trucks.

It may be the ground wire on the harness for the MAF if it's throwing a code. It's not uncommon for folks to have to run new grounds off the plug, as the one in the harness stops working.

I had it happen to me as well in my driveway, but the would be thieves couldn't get the deck out as it was bolted in using stock brackets(saw pry marks on the cubby hole beneath it) and couldn't get the sub/amp out, as the amp was bolted to the box, and the box bolted to the floor. All I had to worry about was the little window. Now, in the X, I've only got an amp driving 4 aftermarket speakers, in stock locations. No sub for me anymore, as I like my space more than I like hard bass. The issue in the WD21's is that the stock speakers are small, and don't produce much low end, unless you buy very high end speakers with an exceptional frequency response. That said, you can massage the holes a bit to fit larger speakers (6.5" components in the front, and 6x9's in the back) which would give you far more speaker options, and better sound at a lower price point.

Removing the tie rod end takes less time than removing the shock. One nut, pop it out.

For the hub side, you'll have to unbolt the hub, and probably the upper ball joint and tie rod end, to get the outer CV out of the hub. Then for the diff side, just a ratchet with and extension, loosen the bolts and it'll come loose.

You have to put spacers between the upper control arm spindle, and the frame, where the spindles bolt in. Alignment shops have proper shims for this, though, I have heard of folks using washers to get things close.

No, typically (though, this is not a hard and fast rule) the XE seats have no hole, and the SE/LE seats have the hole. Though, Nissan wasn't great at sticking with trim levels, so you'll find them in either trim line. If it's got the holes in the front, it should have them in the back.

Yeah, let us know. 2 of them should have a tilt function that ratchets.

About a month ago, the X became available, and I knew the truck and owner. The price was right, and given the mods on it, there wasn't too much that needed to be done. Not to mention, even though it was modified, it was barely wheeled. So I sold the Pathy to Nismojunky,and he's stripped it to use for parts for his and a few others rigs.

With the hole, from what I've found, they ratchet. The "solid block" headrests do not.

Which coolant temperature sensor did you change? Was it the Yellow one, or the other one? The yellow one is for the ECU, which could affect mileage. The other is just for the gauge.

You can do the same with manuals. Lock them before you hit the trail, leave the T-case in 2wd. When you need 4, engage it, and go.

Make sure the amplifier (little grey box behind the coil) is hooked up. Also, check the grounds on the intake, make sure they're intact.

The brakes could just be surface rust on the rotors from sitting. The noise may subside once you drive it a bit. In terms of the fluid, not sure what it is. Try to snap some pics.

That, or, just loosen the bolts/nuts. Pull back on the body, then tighten them back up. Then, when you've got it straighted out, undo the bolts for the suspect mounts, pull the blocks, reinforce the mount, then reinstall the blocks and bolts. I would concur with Kingman to replace any bent bolts.

And upper bumpstops that look like pancakes in no time!

That's a pre-cat. Some had it, some don't. Not necessary, and I removed one from my last Pathfinder, and still passed emissions. Please, DON'T gut your cat. Regardless of smog regulations in your area, a good high-flow cat won't break the bank, and will still do it's job in terms of keeping the air clean-ish.

I've never seen them on a WD either. I don't believe there was an option for it. They put that on the R50's to increase the speed at which you could engage 4wd on the fly.

The autos are fairly strong on our rigs, however, if you get yourself in a situation where you have to "rock" the truck (forward/reverse a bunch of times) you'll find that the autos unlock/relock with every change in direction. While this happens relatively quickly, sometimes even a second of 4wd traction as opposed to 2wd, can be the difference between getting out of the hole, or remaining stuck in it.

I'll offer my experience. With my 2 WD21's I noticed a huge difference between how the 5 Speed handled the lifts/bigger tires, as compared to the Auto. My gas mileage did not change, at all, (after adjusting mileage for the tire size difference) in my old MT equipped truck. On the Auto equipped rig, the gas mileage was dismal with the added weight of the lifts/armour/bumpers/tires. It seems to me, that the Auto, or maybe the torque converter, loses too much power, with all the added drag, thus lowering gas mileage considerably. Considering that you have a Manual, I'd suggest changing out your O2, as previously mentioned, and your coolant temperature sensor. Is your truck warming up to proper operating temperature? Maybe your thermostat is stuck open?

The bearings, the races, and the seals. That's about it.

Does yours have a sunroof? Without the cover, they make things really cook in the cabin.