Simon

You'll want some sort of insulation under there. Both from heat and noise. Maybe some dynamat or something similar. I remember people posting up a cheaper alternative to dynamat that worked just as well, and it'd probably suit your needs just fine.

Just double checked my 95 FSM, and yes, it's 15degrees +/- 2degrees BTDC. So it seems they did advance the timing....and I concur with 88 that the VG30i could run just as well at 15 degrees as the VG30e

And again, NEVER use an impact gun to tighten bolts!!! That's how they snap!! Strap wrench, or screwdriver in flywheel for auto. In gear for manual. Also, another note, if you have a breaker bar, an easy way to remove the bolt is to put the breaker bar on the bolt, and have the handle under the frame. Take the coil wire off the distributor, and bump the starter. Usually one quick bump is enough to get the bolt loosened up. Make sure you get that wire off the dizzy though......or you could end up starting your truck, possibly with no bolt holding your harmonic balancer on.

Your T-bars are cranked....which does put it closer to full droop. Are you cranked so that you're riding the bumpstops? If so, that's your issue. You should have at least .5-.75" between the UCA and the bump stop. Riding on them can cause your issues (premature CV wearout), as well as just make for a really harsh ride, as there's no downtravel.

We'll get to that, and mine, shortly. Hopefully some warmer weather is coming.

DUDE.....that sucks. Did they at least use lube?!?!? I've heard UPS is the worst for brokerage/duty charges.

THe VQ35 is not a direct swap. Even with our VG30 V6's here, it isn't. It's a very different engine than the VG series our WD's have. I would think you'd have much better luck with one of our engines, than trying to fit the 3.5 Also, your manual tranny, I do believe is different than any of the 5speed's for the V6 engines.

That's the spindle. No aftermarket UCA's come with them AFAIK. I bought new ones from the stealer to avoid having to get the bushings off my old spindles when I install my RoughCountry UCA's.

You mean the bottom of the spring, where it mounts to the lower part of the strut? If it's close to, but not rubbing there, you will never rub on that part. Nothing to worry about. Close is okay in that respect.

Yep....the camber will be way off until you crank the T-bars. Why wouldn't you get a chance to do the rear springs? That'll take all of 20 minutes or so. REALLY easy job.

When your front suspension is hanging down at it's lowest point. Do you still have bumpstops on the front? Seems to me your suspension is drooping too far, causing your CV's to break.

"normal" timing on our engines is 15degrees BTDC.

Hmm....always thought it was because GL-5 was too slick. Guess I was wrong. Good info yozsi!

NEVER use an impact gun to tighten bolts!!!! Put the truck in gear, and put the e-brake on. It'll stop it from turning.

LOL....definitely not on a WD21, that's for sure. Our window seals are TERRIBLE.

Front corners of the hood. There's stops there, that screw into the body. Turn them counterclockwise to raise them a bit, which will put a little more pressure on the latch, and keep your hood tighter.

The clicking is your ABS working. If you're on slick pavement, that's normal. If you're on dry pavement, then one of your wheel sensors is probably shot, and is sensing slip, activating the ABS when it shouldn't be. Same thing happened to my parent's Exploder, and changing the wheel bearing assembly (which houses the abs sensor for that wheel) fixed the issue.

lol....I hate those things....when one of mine flew off on the highway, I said no more, and made new cowls out of some thick rubber I had. Drilled small holes, for air flow (not full garbage flow, which ends up in the blower) I then urethaned them down. Been at least 2 years, and they work great.

Yes...get the Warn hubs. Also, make sure you bypass the stock cooler, as 88 said, or else your money on the aftermarket cooler will be wasted.

Get it. JJ is the only person who's had an issue with L&P's stuff. There's quite a few people running their steering, with no issue.

I had that happening (the lights) a couple weeks back on sharp right turns. I topped up my fluid, which wasn't low, but not full by any stretch, and the problem went away. Probably was just setting off the sensor in the fluid reservoir when the truck tilted on turns.

I think that's the first time I've ever heard (read) someone say that.

01 with the VQ 3.5 has a coil pack. VG 3.3 has a distributor. In this case, a coil could be a very good possibility.

Looks like everything's set there. As long as you've cranked her over by hand a couple times, with no crashing, heavy binding, and you've got your tension set properly on the belt (no more/less than 90 degree twist between the camshafts) and your tensioner tighetened up, looks like you're ready to piece it all back together.

That's just suggestion. Lots of people are running them around 3" It's just to keep the suspension travel closer to center, so you have both up, and downtravel with a modest lift.