Simon

Heh....I was thinking the same thing.

Actually, if you do have a Bluetooth ready PDA, they work quite well. I have a PalmOne Treo 650. It's my phone, PDA, and GPS....not to mention video playback, Nintendo Emulator, photo camera, video camera (neither are terribly spectacular). I use it all the time with TomTom Navigator software and I've never had an issue with it's accuracy, or it's features, other than to say I wish there were some Topo maps available.

Hopefully it's something easy, like a clogged cooler or something. Best of luck to you.

HUH? Adding an extra quart? Slick, I think you're confusing the AT, with the MT. I'd be willing to bet your torque converter is shot as Slick said, but you could check your cooler as well. Pull the return line from the tranny and put the end in a bucket, and start the truck. Fluid should start pouring out of the line. IF not, you definitely have a plugged line, or tranny cooler.

THe belt could very well have jumped had the tension not been set correctly. A couple of other things to check though.... Try disconnecting the connection to your MAF sensor. If it does not change how the truck is running, then it's most likely the connection to your MAF that is messed up. It's pretty common on the WD21 Pathfinders. When it happens to me, I just wiggle the wires a bit, and it stops acting funny. Also, is there a check engine light? If so, run the codes, to give you an idea where to look.

I've done both diffs, and the T-case once before, but I'm due again.......I'm not looking forward to it. Real messy job. Good on you for tackling it though.

The VG30 engine is about the only engine used in North America in WD21 Pathy's. We all have them, in one incarnation or another. (there were a few with the 4cyl engine) typically, removing the studs and replacing with 300zx studs and then torquing the manifolds down will fix it, unless the manifolds have warped very badly. Based upon your description, I'd say that isn't the case, since the ticking goes away once it's warmed up.

It's the manifolds. Very typical of our WD21 Pathfinders. If it's only when cold, it's probably only 1 or 2 studs broken, or loose. You won't be able to see the space between the manifold and the block, but it's there.

There's instructions in a sticky in the garage section. Very easy to do, as the ECU is under the passenger seat, and will flash codes out at you once you put it in the right mode.

THat could be difficult. Pull out all the carpet, and interior....and let al the wiring/electrical dry completely. Hopefully it'll go back to normal. If not, then you'll have to start going through wiring diagrams, and chasing them down to figure out your issues.

It shouldn't hit the fenders at all, actually. The Xterra's body is wider than the WD21 Pathfinder. It'll probably stick out a couple of inches on either side.

Nope. Without doing MAJOR modifications to the design of the front suspension, you will not gain more travel. New upper A-arms will not do anything. The only thing that will increase travel is to remove the bumpstops, though, I wouldn't recommend it, as you'll wear through CV Joints like crazy when you use it off road.

My stock nissan one mounted to plates that attached where the stock tow hook is. That's also where my ARB mounts.

Just out of curiosity.....why does everyone want the front and rear level? Pathfinders, whether R50's or WD21's were all nose-down from the factory. Why the seemingly big deal about having them sit level?

Dude, seriously, try the Lucas Power steering fix. My parents Exploder had some REAL hard spots in the steering after a line blew, and the pump had run dry. Got that fixed, but the hard spots remained. Within 3 days of normal driving with the Lucas power steering fix in there, the hard spots are gone. $5-10 CDN, or the thousands it'll cost for a steering overhaul.....your choice. Also, check the tension on your PS belt. ( if you have separate belts, can't remember on the 3.5L engine) It could just have some slack, and be slipping on the pulley. It should be fairly tight.

Probably a grease seal has let some sediment into the wheel bearing assembly. My guess is you could use new inner seals, and to pack those bearings. That is, of course, if you're 100% sure it's not brakes.

I ran 32's with a 3" Suspension lift. They would not fit at stock height. Get some JGC coils, and crank the t-bars to get your lift. Keep it on the ground though, or have your fenders end up like JJ's.

3.3L engine is a VG 3.5L engine is a VQ From 2001 and up, Nissan used the 3.5L VQ engine in Pathfinders.

There are 2 bolts per side that hold the brackets to the frame. Both are accessible from the wheel wells. I believe one is accessible through a hole in the body, and the other straight through the wheel well. If I remember correctly, they're both 12mm bolts.

What type of meter is it? Many types work similar to a timing light where the lead simply clamps onto the #1 spark plug wire.

I was reading this yesterday thinking just that, but thought there was no way that wasn't checked, so I didn't mention it. Guess it goes to show anyone can make mistakes.

Yep....around that. CDN $.

Looks good It may be the angle of a couple of your pics, but it looks to me like if you stuff the rear tires you'll make a mess out of the surrounding sheet metal, especially in front of the tires....... Time to get the sawzall out?

You "shouldn't" need them, however.....in some cases, even with decent aftermarket UCA's, longer bolts have been needed.

Not on a WD21 Max. R50's have flanges, WD's have auto hubs.