Simon

Is it more pronounced in the front or back? If moreso in the front, it could be that a torsion bar has snapped, or that the anchor, or adjuster has let go. Or that it's simply sagged more than the other, though, 2" is quite a bit of difference between the two. If it's moreso in the rear, I'd check for a broken coil, as again, 2" is a lot of discrepancy between coils if they had just sagged. Also look, in the rear, for a broken spring perch.

Shouldn't make any difference. The coolant, and tranny fluid run through separate flutes within the rad. If anything, not having to cool as much fluid (less heat radiating through it) should make it more efficient.

D'oh...after reading your post it got me thinking about my Warn hubs that I recently installed. I put the snap ring back in the normal spot on the CV shaft. I thought that was wrong, and after seeing XPLORx4's install pics, I know it is now. I wondered why it sounded like I had rice krispies in my wheels when I went wheeling, but I think it's because there's a little play in the CV shaft due to where I placed the snap ring. Oh well, at least it's an easy fix. Let's hope I didn't mess up anything else because of my mistake, but I think not.

Yeah, that is flat rate. The first time I did it, I was right around the 6-7 hour area, and I didn't do the water pump, and I ran into no snags other than a human error in which I put on the wrong belt. (long story) The second time I did it, I was under 4 hours for the entire job, including the water pump.

You won't fit them without a lift, and aftermarket rims. The width will be an issue with stock offset rims, as you'll rub on the strut. They're almost a 33" tire, and, for comparison, with a 2" lift, Pezzy's only running 31" tires. You'd need at least that lift and new rims to fit the tires and still be able to drive the truck

Well, that's ignition timing. If it's advanced, that could definitely cause your pinging, and it's probably helping your horsepower numbers a touch, though, is also probably hurting your torque output, at least, at lower RPM's. Try putting a timing light on it, and running it at stock timing (15 degrees BTDC, IIRC) and see what happens.

Yep...at least 92-95. I believe that it may even go further back than that in the year range. You could, though, just buy a pin, if you can extract the broken one from the caliper.

Is it a 3.3L engine? Assuming so, since it's a 98. Loosen off the distributor, and give it a turn. Same as the WD21 Pathfinders.

Search around for suspension lift options. It can be done cheaper, and better than either, of those kits with a little legwork. roughcountry Upper control arms + torsion bar crank in the front = 3" of lift Jeep Grand Cherokee front coils, installed in the rear = 3" of lift Total cost, somewhere around $200-300. Your 31" tires will look, and function just fine with 3" of lift.

The vibration damper is probably worn in your harmonic balancer. I don't know if you can separate the pulley(s) and just buy the damper, or if you need to buy a whole new harmonic balancer. I've seen that happen once when Dowser and I didn't have a proper puller, and tried to pry the harmonic balancer off his truck to do his timing belt. Wobbled like hell after that. I believe he ended up replacing it.

NGK Platinum. Stay away from multiple tipped plugs, as they don't do anything (Bosch +2, or +4) I had no performance increase with the +4 installed in mine, and because they weren't on sale when it was time to replace, I got regular NGK platinums.

STEAL STEAL STEAL! Slick won't mind! If you pick up the one out of the 94, you'd have to get an ECU as well, as it'll be a VG30E, not I. Unless you're into swapping out intakes and stuff, but if that were the case, you'd have room for a rebuild. Go with the Pathy engine, and it should drop right in.

On the timing belt, I've left the Cam/crank seals alone. Seems to me if they're holding oil, no need to worry about it. Especially since, if I put in new ones, they're SURE to leak. I've got 315,000 kms on my 95, and done 2 timing belts, and still no oil leaks. Be sure, though, to do the water pump, tensioner, and thermostat when you're in there.

The 8" 10" or 12" debate can be had for months. Truly, it all depends on what type of music you listen to, and at what volumes. It also depends on the type of sub. Typically, an 8" sub will give you tight, snappy bass. Great for bass drums in rock/metal. They won't give you the low rumble of a 12" sub though. Obviously, a 10" sub is somewhere in between. I run a single 12", and I find I have had to EQ my system just right to give me the right bass response, as I like to have a solid kick for bass drums in the music I listen to. I find that my 12" is a little muddy in that sense, but the rumble on lower bass notes is great.

I think PathyJay bought a molded replacement carpet for one of his project vehicles. Not sure if he still has it, or not. You could PM him to see where he got it, or if he still has his, and wants to sell.

AC = 4x4parts.com They sell the lift for your Pathfinder. 7K seems a little high for your truck, but it everything's working, I wouldn't worry about the mileage. If you know the T-belt has been changed, you're fine. IF not, get it swapped out ASAP, as a breakage there will cost you big bucks in terms of a rebuild. A point of reference....I have over 312,000kms on my 95 Pathy....and it's still going strong.

Easy way to check for LSD if you're not sure: Jack up the entire rear axle. Turn 1 wheel. If the other goes in the same direction, you have an LSD rear. If it turns in the opposite direction, or doesn't turn, it's an open rear diff.

The plugs (both the drain and fill plugs) are square half inch holes. Use a half inch drive ratchet or breaker bar to loosen and remove them. Make sure you take out the fill plug FIRST, as if you can't get it out, you can't re-fill the diff. Once it's removed, loosen/remove the drain plug....drain the fluid. Make sure you get about 3litres of fluid, as I believe the rear diff takes about 2.5. If you have LSD, make sure you get LSD approved fluid, or LSD additive. GL-5 gear lube is what you're looking for. Once the fluid is drained, and the plug cleaned off of all shavings, reinstall the drain plug, and fill the diff until fluid starts pouring out the fill hole. Reinstall the fill plug, and you're done.

Yes....you do still have to tap. But sometimes to fit a smaller bolt, or stud, it's worth it. Plus, should something go wrong, you can pull out the heli coil, and put in another one the same size, without having to drill the hole larger.

Do you have a check engine light on? Typically, if either the EGR, or an O2 sensor is malfunctioning, you'll get the light. If so, run the codes to see what your actual issue is.

Search dude. The How-To's section in the garage has a timing belt how to, with pictures that's very well written.

Is there an orange sticker on the diff that says "LSD Oil Only"? If not, unless it was removed, you may have bought yourself another open diff.

That would be the plan, yes. Otherwise, you may have to find heli-coils the right size to accept the stud.

Stud extraction varies. If it's broken, but not broken inside the block, you can clamp vise grips on it, and screw it out. If it's broken inside, some have used "easy out" type extractors, and some have had to drill out the bolt. Others have welded a bolt to the stud, and screwed it out. If it is broken in the block, be sure to be VERY careful drilling out the stud if it comes down to that. The water jackets are very close to the studs, and you don't want to drill through them.

Auto and Manual equipped Pathfinders use the same transfer case. Should work just fine, as far as I know. For better fuel economy, try cleaning the MAF sensor. You'd be surprised what a little gunk on that thing can do. Search around, there's a How-To somewhere.