Simon

Meh....buy them, and throw them in. It takes about 20-30 minutes. He'll never know!

Yeah, I'm quite happy with my Dayton Timberline MT's as well. Basically the same tire as the Destination MT's mentioned above, only cheaper. Same company making them, and almost the exact same tread pattern.

Oh...sorry...didn't realize we were still talking about stock 17" rims.

I also run JGCC with the pigtail cut off, with longer rear shocks and no rear sway bar. I've never had issues. I took the coils out of my old truck, and put them in my new one, and have had no issues, and I have pretty decent flex.

A friend of mine just got the Kumho Road Venture MT's, and says they're REALLY quiet. He's comparing those to the Goodyear MTR's. I can't comment on treadwear, as he just put them on, but they seemed to work well for him on the trail. http://www.kumhotire.ca/tires/details.php?...22&ptn=KL71

PM sent.

You can fit either a 31, or 32" tire with minor trimming of fenders/quarter panels with the 2" lift.

Good stuff man. Hope the other is as easy for you.

D'oh! Not another one. Once I successfully rebuild one of mine, and test it, I'll show you how to rebuild yours. According to Steve (Coconut) it's fairly simple.

Before getting into that. See if you can feel pressure/pulsation in the fuel lines while someone tries to turn the truck over. If you do, the filter most likely isn't your issue. Are you sure you're getting spark? Maybe your distributor is shot?

Yeah, I agree with most of that. I only changed mine out because I had an auto hub that was randomly attempting to engage, sometimes at highway speeds....you can only imagine the racket that thing made.

Yes, the write up is the same. It's very easy. The disadvantage to auto hubs is that they unlock, and relock as you change direction. So, if you're stuck, and are trying to go forward and backwards to get out, they're unlocking and relocking each time you change direction. Otherwise, the Warn Premiums are just stronger, and less prone to breaking, not that the stock autos are terrible in that regard.

^^^ What they said. I've gone through countless deep water crossings without issue. IT's the mud that gets caked in them that kills them.

60,000 miles is the interval for the T-belt. Better get on that one soon. Oh, and welcome!

YOU BASTARD! Yeah, I voted frame, for obvious reasons.

redfinder: Reading is key.

I'd be willing to bet you haven't received that many defective starters. I'd assume getting lower amperage is somehow killing them. Try changing your cables as suggested.

Nope....typically the fuel pumps are okay. More so, the sending unit and it's wiring go bad. I had to replace one on my old truck, and even had to re-wire my replacement unit after a couple of years.

Make sure the braided lines aren't too long. Some aftermarket ones are quite a bit longer than stock. SkinnyPedal had braided lines on the front of his WD21, and ended up having one rub on the tire, and blow out on a major highway. He was lucky he didn't hit anything. He has since gone back to stock rubber lines.

IN a word....YEP. Sometimes, especially if they haven't been taken apart in a while, the grease can really hold those suckers on.

Yep....at 88 said....in terms of suspension, without redesigning the whole system, a torsion bar crank is the only way to achieve lift in these rigs. New Upper Control arms help align post lift, and are stronger than stock arms, but they don't provide lift. I'd say, there's no point trying to redesign the IFS to use coils, or anything else. The time and energy spent there could be put towards a SAS, and would serve you far better.

Oh boy....bad joke alert!

I did the timing belt twice on my old one, and never touched any of the seals. I never had a leak from any of them either.

What's a sprak plug?!?! I've used NGK platinums, want to try the NGK Iridium plugs, and have run the Bosch Platinum +4's. My truck didn't seem to mind either. Just make sure, at minimum, that they're gapped correctly, and they're platinum.

It SHOULD do that...however, the system doesn't always work that way. For instance, my parent's Exploder would activate the ABS at under 10kph if they braked lightly, like in traffic, or pulling into the driveway. It was a dirty ABS sensor at the wheel.