Simon

Possibly Wheel bearings. Heat shields from the front brakes contacting the rotor? Is the sound from the front or rear?

3+3 = 33's

D'oh...wasn't paying attention to the model of Pathy.

True.....although... During the last oil change I did on Pezzy's truck, I looked at where the issue is. It's the bracket for the PS pump that's in the way. I might be able to modify it to be able to put the relocation kit in.

Not much. 99.5 got the fascia update, and a small suspension change in the rear (rear shock mounts are placed differently) 2001+ got the 3.5L but is the same as the 99.5+ with the exception of the engine, and the all mode T-case, which was optional. All told, you'd feel right at home in any of them. A much more powerful home, if you went 2001+

That I can agree with, especially since you're really not in a rush, you've got a running vehicle.... I just meant that the stereo means squat. Engine, sure. Tranny, sure. Then go from there, and find a good one.

It could also be the steering stops. They're known to have the plastic caps fall off, and then you get metal to metal contact. if not, definitely tie-rod ends

WTF does it matter what stereo is in it? IMHO you're way too picky. A ) Decide on VQ vs VG B ) Decide on tranny C ) Buy the best one of your choice that you can afford. A stereo is swapped out easily enough. You even have the aftermarket components to do so.

I believe the manufacturer is NTK. I've used NTK sensors in both of my WD21's with no ill affects. I believe Vengeful was referring more to using direct replacement sensors, as opposed to the universal ones, where splicing is required.

Body lifts keep the COG a little lower than the same amount of suspension lift. The frame, engine, and suspension components (heavy stuff)stay at the same height. That said, I don't believe I'd go ANY more than a total of 6" of lift, without going wider. I've got a 3+3, and my tires stick out quite a bit, which makes for an almost stock ride/stability. However, any taller, and I'd be looking at wider axles, or at least rims with less backspacing. The engineering it would take to make your idea a reality just isn't worth it. for under $100 you can get 3" of lift. Can't think of a much better bang for your buck!

The rotors are larger than the 96-99 R50 Pathfinders. Some 15" wheels will fit, but clearance will be very tight. Most 15", including previous stock rims, will not.

The other thing it could be is the proportioning valve needs bleeding. IT's located on the passenger side framerail, about halfway down the truck. Do that after bleeding the rears, but before bleeding the front.

It's actually in the passenger side fenderwell. You'll see a mounting plate with 2 screws that seems to hold up nothing, right beside the battery. Undo them, and pull the DRL module out from the fender. It can all be done from under the hood....no need to remove the fender or anything like that.

THe VQ doesn't have any more problems than the VG. Power valve screws are no big deal, and the O2 sensor issues are just as bad in the VG series engines. Pezzy's replaced all 4 of hers. More power, no timing belt = a good choice as far as I'm concerned. Get an 02+ as you don't want the first year of a redesign. The 4x4 shift lever is available in the lower model 01+ R50's. Transfer your lift, armour and tires, and you're way ahead.

If I'm not mistaken, they're the newer Kumho Road Venture MT's.

A little from column A, and a little from Column B. They wear out quick, and squeak like hell. Just not worth the money IMHO.

The adjuster on the torsion bars need some tweaking. You'll have to crank up the left side, or crank down the right to get it level.

Check the belt tension.....it could just be loose. Otherwise... X3

Nope....you should be able to remove the pads without taking off the caliper mount. Get a prybar in there and use some leverage. Oh, and removing those big bolts holding the caliper mount to the knuckle the first time can be a real pain in the a$$. A big breaker bar, or impact gun is your friend there.

So you're the jackass that I am forced to fire up my 100w IPF's at. You'll care when one of the people you've blinded hits you head on.

You have to remember, that that 400w models are rated at MAX output, similar to stereo equipment. Therefore, they will run at peaks of 400w. This is similar for all inverters. I have a 1200w inverter, that I couldn't run a 900w coffee maker (yeah, they take that much, shocked me too) because it would trip out. I'd buy one with at least double the power consumption you're going to plug into it.

No, it isn't. The Xterra (2000-2004) is the closest thing you'll find to a WD21 Pathfinder. The frame is almost exactly the same, (hence the WD22 chassis code) and it'll house a 6' tall driver easily (I know a 6'5" guy who drives one). The Xterra is quite a bit larger than the WD21 Pathfinder in all dimensions.

Nope....the 2001+ has a VQ35 motor. Totally different design from the VG series. Valve covers weren't really an issue on those motors.

If you're not 100% sure when it was changed, definitely follow the 105k (60k is for the early WD21 models) service interval. I wouldn't leave it much longer than that. It really is cheap insurance, even if it doesn't seem cheap at the time.

ALL R50's share the same front driveline.....though, there have been some reports of issues with manual hubs and the "All Mode" 4wd system.