Simon

Interesting idea. A couple of them stacked, and welded to the skid would do the job methinks.

He was talking about the diff drop kit not working on the R50, not the CV boots. That installation tool (the air powered one) is really slick.

Leave the battery in the vehicle for now, and just pull the battery out of the fob. Better to troubleshoot one thing at a time.

Yep....remove the battery from both fobs, while parked in your garage, and see if it happens again. It could theoretically be the garage door opener causing it....though, I'd think that'd be rare. Do you, by chance, have the homelink system in your truck? I'm not sure if it was even available in R50 Pathfinders, but I am quite sure there were some QX4's that had it. I wonder if that's causing the issue, if so equipped?

On your list, just before the relocation kit, put in a body lift. It'll make you life easier.

If you find the owner, and pay him a decent amount of money, sure.

That's how she's losing them, B. They're being torn off on the trail. She's popping the heads off the bolts, or stripping them out in the process. Her idea of welding them to the plate is sound, as that would actually lend a little more support to the bolt as well, as she wouldn't have the rock washer alone prying against when she hits a rock.

R50 Pathfinders don't have hubs stock. They're constantly engaged drive splines. The manual hubs are a fuel saving upgrade for R50's.

You're probably only getting the transfer case into neutral. You'll either have to swap the shifter, bend your existing one, or notch the floor to get it into 4LO.

Mine's all good, and I plan to go with 8mm wires when I have to change them. Thanks for the nomination mws. Give them to who needs them most, and thanks for the generous offer. Someone will be most grateful.

With any suspension lift, and consequently, bigger tires, you'll need upgraded steering. The stock crap can't handle larger tires, let alone the stock 31's on some WD21 Pathfinders

To add to what Pezzy said..... The Red Top is good for starting, but is NOT a deep cycle battery. This means it'll work fine at amperage draws equal or lower to the amperage your alternator puts out. Unless you have a 450amp alternator, you're going to need a deep cycle battery for your winch. That's a typical amperage draw at full load (8000-10000lbs) using a winch. The yellow top is the way to go if you're going Optima. Dekka, Orbital (made by Exide) and Odyssey (very expensive) also sell deep cycle/starting batteries.

The Yellow Top is just that....Deep Cycle/Starting. They're designed to do both.

Upper Control Arms

There we go! That's the information we needed.

Hey Dowser! Good to "see" you buddy. Now that you're back, sort of, in town, we'll have to get together.

The center bore does have to be 4". I was under the assumption that all the 16" rims had the large enough bore. Maybe I'm wrong.

Not true. They will not fit the 17" SE ones (later models). Those rims are not bored all the way through. They will fit the 16" wheels just fine.

Not quite that bad. My OD kicks in just fine, as does torque converter lockup, however, it shifts out of lockup pretty easily.

When people SAS the WD21's they typically do gears as well. The VG30 won't turn anything bigger than a 33" tire (and even that's negotiable) on stock gears. That said, my 5speed was better than my AT is, but by no means was it quick.

Don't know about NAPA. But the WARN part # is 29091

Fair enough. I've found, though admittedly, not on Pathfinders, that the rotors warp so quickly nowadays, and they're so cheap, that it's not worth turning them.

Right, they warp from heat. Exactly my point. IF there's less metal (after turning them) to distribute the heat through, do you not think it'll warp faster after turning?

Just to give you an idea, I went 320,000kms on my old truck without having to replace the front rotors at all. They were still straight, no gouges, nothing. All I ever did with them is scuff up the glaze with some sandpaper (or a fine grit sanding disc on and angle grinder) and threw new pads on. Personally, I don't believe in turning rotors. That really only needs to be done if you've had pads where way down and they're scored, or if they're warped. As far as I'm concerned, if the rotor warped once, it'll happen again, especially if, by turning them, you're making the already weakened steel thinner. For what they cost to replace nowadays, I wouldn't even bother.

Dammit man, you weren't supposed to tell.