Simon

You're better off to find any GL4 synthetic fluid, drain, and refill, using the correct amount as per the TSB. You can replace about 1L of the synthetic fluid with Lucas Oil Stabilizer for good measure, if you like. I know Pennzoil makes a synthetic GL-4 lube.

mz, what fluid are you using?

Yes. The inside of the disc is used as a drum for the e-brake.

Okay......make me look like an idiot......what I meant to say was.......... Any REPLACEMENT, correct weight, dino oil, causes it to feel like mud, yet, the original fluid put in by NIssan (which, I assume was dino) does not. I don't understand that.

Even the correct weight oil will do it, if it's dino oil. Dunno why.......

That's cuz your fluid is like mud. Mine does it slightly too, although, not hard enough to actually pull the vehicle forward. I can feel it lurch slightly forward in neutral. In my old tranny, when I ran synthetic fluid (haven't changed it yet in this one) the problem didn't occur, and the pedal action was light, and the shifter moved alot more freely.

Check that there's spark coming from the coil. It's in behind the distributor. Might be worth a shot. Check the connections to, and from it. ALso, there's a little grey box in behind that (can't remember the name of it right now) but I had an issue once where mine wouldn't start and the connection to that little grey box was loose.

Sway bar link.....I have both my sway bars off. When I took off the front one, I noticed zero difference in handling. The rear, on the other hand, made a noticeable difference. I'd say, if you don't want to fix it, pull it completely off. It's not doing anything for you in that state anyways.

MT's are good in deep snow......they're terrible, though, in slush, and on ice, unless they're well siped.

Why would someone shoot someone else's bushes?!?!? Who would have such a hate on for shrubbery?!?! If I were you, and you have the inclination, do it yourself. The work is labour intensive....so you're paying more for elbow grease than for parts in this situation. I would to all of them at once though, get it done and over with.

Get some decent AT's. Go with 31's. BFG AT's AT/KO's (also BFG) and Bridgestone Dueler AT/Revo's are all good all weather tires that will do you well off the beaten path.

Directional tires are just that. Directional. The hop was probably more likely caused by the tires than anything else. Put a directional tire on rotating the wrong way, and see how little traction you have. I would say it's nothing to worry about, and if you put your regular all-seasons on, it wouldn't happen.

The key is GO SLOW.....Make no sudden moves....leave lots of distance between you and the car in front of you, and brake early, and softly. My mom was a school bus driver a few years back, and was told something that makes alot of sense. If you've done everything you can to avoid a collision, and you can't, try to hit something soft......a ditch....a fence.....whatever.......it's softer than a car.

As posted above........ REading is key!!!

Good work 88. Hopefully we'll get some of the old guys back....if not, it was worth a try.

Are you suggesting a prerunner skidplate?

There isn't really a good way to do that, unless you made spacers for the front mounts, to drop it down a bit, thus, reducing the angle. While that might work, it would then create a flat spot on the front to catch on things, so I think you'd be shooting yourself in the foot if you did that. Based on the geometry of the truck, that angle is as good as it gets as far as I can tell..

DO'h.....the question's been asked so many times, I thought that would have been a given....yeah....look for the orange sticker first!!!

PM me for the info on where to download the factory service manual......

Jack up rear of vehicle. (both tires off the ground) Rotate one tire, while watching the other. If it rotates the same way, you have LSD. If it rotates in the opposite direction, or not at all, it's an open diff. Be sure to chock the front tires before jacking the rears off the ground!!

K9, Install zerks in your hips. Grease away, Old man!!!!

I don't think that's what Teen was talking about Casey.....but maybe I'm wrong.... Teen, for these types of issues, it's good to have someone bounce the front end up and down, while you check for play, or noises. My guess in this case could be sway bar links on the lower control arm.

It's not hard to get out at all. If you take the plastic off the column, behind the steering wheel, you should see the screws and electrical connector to pull the switch out. The plastic parts are screwed together from underneath, at least, they were when I replaced mine in my 95 (which is slightly different) and it took me about 20 minutes.

If you had the switch on the fresh air setting, it could be that the intake near the firewall was blocked with ice. The stock grills near the windsheild let far too much crap in. Possibly froze up there. That could be the crunch you heard as the blower motor chewed up some ice. Next time, try on the recirculation setting. If you get heat that way, then the fresh air intake is your issue.

Strange.....I've never had that happen.