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Well I guess you have the reason the PO left the belt off. I'm surprised it's not louder when the clutch is off. Something internally is screwed up with the clutch. I really can't imagine your belt will last long when you aren't using the AC. That would have to generate a lot of heat and wear on the belt. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

When you say slips do you mean with the engine running and compressor off that the belt is spinning across the stopped pulley? In that case I can't imagine it isn't making an awful screeching noise. Or do you mean with the engine off, you can pull the belt over the end of the compressor pulley? If that's the case you need to adjust the idler pulley tension. You should not be able to take it off by hand. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If you had the 3M ceramic tint installed, do you mind saying what it cost? I've been meaning to look into this and haven't gotten around to it. I don't want to install it myself though. I put solar blocking tint on some of my home windows, and wanted to claw my eyeballs out while trying to get it on not wrinkled or scratched. I wasted more than half of it. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Lol it hasn't been regularly in the low 90s for a high here since early June. That might be a day when I don't run the AC because it feels cooler, if the humidity isn't too bad. It's amazing to me being from Texas that someone had the belt break and didn't immediately try replacing it. Unless it happened over the winter and they didn't keep it to summer. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Unless you are in a cool area I can't imagine why the belt wouldn't have been replaced if AC worked. The compressor pulley should freewheel when the clutch isn't engaged. I can't remember if the R50 will engage the clutch with the ignition on but engine not running. Did you try doing that and see if the pulley will rotate a little? No real harm in putting a belt on and seeing if it works. Worst case the thing howls like a mad man. When you do, be sure to check the tensioner pulley freewheels and doesn't click or sound rough. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Vent temps should go down when you are driving steadily above about 35 mph. At that point the rad fan is no longer doing much of the work of pulling air across the condenser, and the RPMs are up for the compressor to be able to circulate the optimal refrigerant. If they don't go down at all it is very unlikely your rad fan has a problem unless the clutch is too stiff or locked up. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I put in half of a bottle (16 oz) of the Supertech Walmart oil stabilizer. It says use up to 20% (or the whole bottle for a Pathfinder.) I was a little scared of using that much since it's almost like mayonnaise. But it quieted my engine right down. I'll probably try Idemitsu 10-30 at my next oil change to compare. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I suppose you have to get that stuff at the Subaru dealer or Amazon? I see you can also get Idemitsu branded oil on Amazon. I may have to try that. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback. 10-30 is a Nissan approved weight for this engine under some temp ranges. I had been running 5-30 because 10-30 is right on the edge of officially acceptable for the temp here, and I was trying to eek all efficiency possible out of the engine. But it has 260k miles now. I think it has earned the heavier weight. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I tow a 3,000 lb RV (a Casita) with my 2001 manual 4x4. It does really well, but it's at the limit of what I'd want to tow with it on flat land or moderate hills. I have the 2 inch spring lift. If you don't have that, you'll probably need air springs. You feel the weight of it behind you. But it tows straight and steady without sway. I don't have any slippage of the clutch. You have to really wind the engine out to keep up with traffic. It can get up to 70-80 mph slowly. In 100 degree temps at that speed the engine runs about 215 degrees. If I were traveling in a high mountainous area like Colorado, I wouldn't feel comfortable towing with it, keeping up with traffic on the Interstate at least. Maybe it would be fine on state roads. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I have 2 more qts of 5-30. That will last me about 2 months. I think my oil change will be due about then too. Sure I'll use 10-30 probably around late October when I change it. Until then I'll throw in some of that oil enhancer. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the tip. I've considered trying 10w30 to see if that helped quiet it down, but I'll try the Supertech additive instead. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Will they likely last a long time like this making slight noise? Or more typical gets worse fast? Thanks Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I have some occasional ticking which has been debated on here whether likely valve lifters or exhaust manifold loose bolts. I've also noticed when my oil is 1 qt low, but still on the end of the dipstick, the ticking lasts longer and is more pronounced. For example I heard it when pulling my camper out of the driveway up a very slight incline. I immediately stopped and filled it up. But it isn't a horrible racket. If I fill the oil up, it immediately goes away. Then I only hear it sometimes when decelerating at high speeds. I'd there anything likely to cause poor pickup in the oil pan? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I don't think it will help your wobble. I've never read it helped others with wobble at a specific speed. That sounds like a tire balance issue. If you want an excuse to put on a missing link, go for it. But after tires I'd be looking at other front suspension components. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I probably would have replaced the amp first too. Now it certainly sounds like blower bearings or brushes are toast and binding. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

The AC condensate is dribbling on my feet. I figured the drain was plugged, and I was going to clean it out. I read somewhere else it was on the passenger side firewall. I've looked everywhere and can't find it. You can see a dribble coming out of some hose/wire guard that wraps around the subframe rail. It looks like the drain might be behind the exhaust leading to the cat. Hopefully Nissan wasn't that stupid. Does anyone know where it is? Or had success cleaning it out from the inside instead of the outside? Thanks.

My fan did that for a little while when it was going out, but quickly got worse. Automatic ACs use a PWM controller driving a high power transistor, in place of a resistor pack. They generally call it a blower amp. I believe it is in the same area as the resistor pack on the R50's sitting in the airstream because they do generate some heat. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

When the IACV takes out the ECU, is that only if the failure is caused by coolant leakage into the coils, and if you bypass the coolant around the valve you should be OK and just need a new valve? Or can the valve damage the ECU even without leaking coolant causing the coil failure? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm replying on my phone so I can't see your post to refer to. Your wiring diagram isn't complete b/c relay 1&2 wouldn't work without other wires. Relay 2 shouldn't be N/C, it should be N/O, closes ground when power is applied from the ignition, and I think it will never come on for temp wired that way. It would come on for AC and recirc, since I think those bypassed it. I don't see why you have relay 1 and 2, that should require only one relay. Why did you choose to switch the ground to the sensor to disable the fan with the engine off? The Ranger station schematic shows cutting the switched +. Was it to avoid circuit ringing if cutting power with the fan on? Why are you turning on the fan when recirc is on? I have a 1 speed fan and it comes on full power when I turn on AC, recirc setting isn't involved. I love my electric radiator fan. I used a Flex-a-lite black magic extreme. It has the same problem of not covering 20% of the radiator. But even in Dallas heat the AC is cooler when stopped, the engine heat is well controlled (I have a ScanGauge II), the engine runs smoother, and seems to be a little peppier. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

There I would specifically look for the tint designed to block infrared rays. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Have you checked your radiator fan clutch? I actually removed mine and put in an electric radiator fan. Made a huge difference in AC temp when sitting or going slow. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Some windows have FM/AM radio antennas in them. Mine doesn't, it's just a normal whip antenna. I've even seen cars with a whip antenna and a windshield antenna. I think because they just put the antenna in all replacement windows for standardization. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Interesting. I never found another clean way through the dash. From the driver wheel well, I ran them down to the lower door frame, down the inside of the side step to the back, near the trailing arm, and around the rear drivers wheel well, right to where my 4 way connector already was on the left back side. I ran it in 3/8 in wire loom for extra protection. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

How big of a hole do you need? For my electric brake controller on my 2001, I found a knock out rubber plug about an inch outboard of the hood cable release into the driver wheel well. I routed the wires behind the plastic splash guard and into the under hood area through the large pass through. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk