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I'm pretty sure this is where and what I bought, but the site has changed. And there was nothing about needing aftermarket wheels with 3.75 backspace. I have factory 2001 alloy wheels working fine. I think I run 265/75R15. Maybe they mean only if you do run 31s. I'd call them and ask. https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981315-pathfinder-suspension-lift.html Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

I have the AC 2 inch lift springs. I bought them about 10 years ago. I think they were higher spring rate than OME, but I don't remember how I figured that out. There is a thread I started on here when I installed them. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

If I go with a K&N system or create a similar setup with a cotton gauze filter, are you saying I should run it completely dry? Or to just be sure there is only a light application of the oil on the filter? I had a JWT Pop Charger on my 1990 Maxima and I thought it said you need to lightly oil the filter after cleaning for it to catch dust effectively, but be careful not to over oil it to prevent damage to your MAF sensor. On that car I never ran into a problem. But modern sensors may be more sensitive.

That's pretty looking. Mine is cracked from the throttle body to the first rib. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

The air duct does seem expensive, especially when 6 months ago as Nissan was selling off its final few, they were $150. Since I'm already at $200, I was wondering if spending another $100 would pay off in marginally better performance or fuel economy. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

You mean a cold air intake? No i didn't think to try that. Thanks I will. I have noticed over the past 2 years lots of R50 parts are being discontinued, the factory air snorkel included. So part support from Nissan seems to be dwindling. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Hi, My air intake snorkel is cracked and deteriorating from being old plastic. Rather than patch it up or risk a junkyard one, I'd rather just get something new. The factory replacement seems to only be available now from PartsGeek for $205. https://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=W0133-1851736&x=0&y=0 If I'm paying that much, I've wondered if anyone has tried one of the cold air intake options out there? I only found 2 brands. K&N makes one that looks pretty high quality and runs $300 https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-occ-38.html/nissan-pathfinder-19962004-r50-pathfinder-occ-38_1322.html/19962004-r50-pathfinder-air-intake-systems-occ-38_1322_1427.html/nissan-pathfinder-fipk-air-intake-system-by-kn-20012004-35l-ocp-60394.html Weapon R makes 2 versions, both of their versions look pretty cobbled together and racerboyish. They run about $200 from various retailers. Here is 1 version. But I can't find a single picture of one put together, and the method for mounting the MAF looks fairly ridiculous. But sometimes ridiculous works fine. http://www.weapon-r.com/products/2335-2001-04-3-5l-v6-nissan-pathfinder-dragon-intake-black I guess I 'm wondering if others have experienced a small increase in power, or decrease in fuel consumption, that would make one of these options worthwhile? Or has anyone had problems and wouldn't recommend a cold air intake? Thanks.

The belt is tight and not squeaking. The connections on the alternator are tight. I forgot to check the tightness of the battery terminals, thanks for the reminder. But they aren't corroded. I don't know of any other suspect terminals to check. I think the alternator positive feed comes directly in to the battery terminal. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

I have a Scangauge II and one of the gauges I keep up is the voltage meter. When the truck is running, it has started rapidly fluctuating between 11.6 volts and 14.1 volts, and every value in between. It will change dramatically every few seconds, probably related to the Scangauge refresh rate. I haven't noticed any other symptoms of low or fluctuating voltage with the truck. When the truck is off, the battery is stable at 12.6 volts, though I haven't tried to test it under load. Not long ago, I replaced the OEM alternator that died after an excursion to 19 volts, with a Malaysian built 13900 replacement from a junkyard. That was just to limp me along to get the OEM alternator looked at, which I've done. I had it cleaned and the brushes replaced and tested, so it is supposedly good to go back in if I wanted to. When I installed the junkyard alternator, it tested good at a part store. Is there any reason to suspect anything besides that junkyard alternator or voltage regulator in it dying? I wouldn't want to go to the work of replacing it for the 3rd time in 6 months, and it not be the problem. One other item of note, I had the firmware in the Scangauge updated for the first time in 7 years. I'm thinking that was a mistake. I haven't found a setting where it doesn't occasionally turn off when driving, or turn on when I open the door with the car off, or quit responding. It never did this with the old firmware. I also see a noticeable shimmering of the display when looking at it, like horizontal shadowy lines rapidly moving from top to bottom. I never saw this with the old firmware either. But so far all of the ODBII reported values look right when the Scangauge is working, which is 95% of the time. So I don't think these voltage readings are inaccurate from the Scangauge.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Stupid Amazon says "the title has been deleted" in my wish list. I had to find the owner's manual and search for the item again, and I still found it. Here is a direct link http://a.co/9jVqHU6 They are Kensun HID low beam xenon, high beam halogen H4/9003 bulbs at 3000K color. The mfgr part number is supposedly Ken-ks-H4l-30. Currently they are $60 on Amazon. When I installed the bulbs I had to cut one wire on each of the halogen leads so I could fit all of the harness through the rubber boot of the headlight. Then I connected the wire back with spade connectors. These bulb bases don't securely fit over the interior of the rubber boot. But the rubber boot will still stay securely on the headlight housing. I don't feel like the rubber boots are necessary unless you are forging creeks a foot in water or higher, and even then I don't think the factory rubber boots would prevent water ingress. I've never had a problem with that. I also had to swap the left and right wire connectors in the HID kit headlight socket. They are polarity sensitive to make the amps work. But connecting them backwards at first won't hurt anything, the HID lights just won't light up until you swap them. Note the 2 modifications were only to the HID kit. I made no modifications to the vehicle or headlight housing. I could swap normal part store halogen bulbs in within a few seconds by just disconnecting the HID harness and swapping the bulbs. One last thing to note is when they initially turn on, they are a little dim and whiter. After about 30 seconds they reach full brightness and the correct very slightly yellowish color, but not so yellow as halogen. I've never had an issue with the warm up period being too dim entering a tunnel or parking garage. I really like these bulbs, and haven't had any problems with them yet.

100% drop in replacement is halogen. I hate Sylvania, I feel like they burn out too fast. I use the cheapest part store non Sylvania option, generally Ecko, and feel like the light is as good and they last longer. But I had the same problem as you wanting something better. I've done the light polishing which worked great, but was cloudy again in 6 months. You can also do HID and LED. Both bulbs are physically drop in replacement without modification to your lens housing, but with HID there is a small amp box you'd need to mount. I haven't tried LED. I love my HID lights. On low beam I get better light than old high beam, and I haven't been flashed to indicate they bother other drivers. They have halogens for high beams for legality, but in practice the high beam is dimmer than low beam. I picked one step hotter than halogen, 3000K, but not the very hot white blue color. They were about $50 and supposed to last 10 times longer. If you are interested, I can look up the Amazon link to them. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

On my 2001, about 2/3 of a liter or 20 ounces gets you between the hashes on level ground. It can be dramatically different if parked on incline vs decline. A quart is 32 Oz and a liter is 33.8 Oz, so only 5% difference. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Thanks. I guess I will keep using it until it is clearly dying and then plan to do clutch, resurface, and main seal. I found another thread where one person had and ARP stage 2 and another person was getting a Centerforce. But most seemed to think the OEM was best unless doing crazy off-roading. I'll check those costs against a NAPA house clutch. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Hi, Since I bought my Pathfinder at 135k miles, the clutch chatters on launch in 1st gear if you try to feather it much at all. If I launch very firmly, but not totally banging the clutch out, there is no chatter. It has never chattered in any other gear during changes. I've done a bit of towing up to about 2,600 lbs, and when towing it doesn't chatter, even at launch in 1st. I've probably towed a total of 2,000 miles. Truck currently at 245k miles. Today when I wasn't towing, but I was accelerating pretty firmly, on the change from 1st to 2nd, I could feel the clutch slip and chatter a little. This was the first time that's ever happened. Is this mean my clutch is probably dying? Or was it just a very infrequent non-event. If it is probably dying, does anyone have recommendations on replacement clutches for Pathfinders? I've driven manual cars 23 years, but I've never had to replace a clutch. I have also been told I have a small oil leak at the main seal. Perhaps it is contaminating the clutch? The mechanic encouraged me not to worry about it unless I decided to replace my clutch, and even then the crankshaft could have enough wear that a new main seal doesn't stop the leak. Thanks.

Per the owners manual, there was no factory remote start option, and it didn't have window auto down on the remote. My parents 1996 Maxima had that. I loved it. I tried as soon as I got my Pathfinder and it didn't work. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Yeah I've been reading the FSM and it's pretty disorganized in all respects regarding brake servicing. It doesn't say anything about play off vehicle. It does have good directions regarding play (none) and preload measurement on vehicle. You need a fish scale to do the final step. Googling it for any vehicle, it seems like a little axial play in the inner bearing to grease seal is normal, as long as the grease seal is completely set. The preload somehow compresses everything together, though I still don't see how. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Hi, I have some front end vibration when braking firmly above 50 mph. A shop said the rotors were warped, so i'm replacing them. I've done this once before but it has been about 2 years, so I'm not remembering it good. Last time I repacked my hub bearings, and replaced the grease seal. This time since I did it so recently I wasn't going to repack the bearings. I wiped out the grease I could get to, and was going to put some back in. I noticed that the inner bearing has a lot of lateral play in it (about 1/8" of an inch) before it hits the grease seal. Is this ok? If I push the bearing against the race and turn it, it turns smoothly and doesn't seem to have any axial play. I just couldn't tell what holds the inner bearing against the race. Thanks.

I'd do a flush and fill with synthetic ATF. Though I have a manual. Also I tow a 2600 lb travel trailer. It tows OK and the truck brakes do pretty well on their own. But you need to drive conservative since not everyone around you will. I had one person cut in front of me and slow down quickly. My trailer has electric brakes and I need to finish getting them wired up to the truck. I wouldn't want to go heavier than 3000 lbs, or much less in hilly areas, without them wired up. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

I leave things alone until they bother me, then I try to fix them myself unless I think it would be hard to complete in a day, or would make me angry doing. Besides oil changes I can't think of any preventative maintenance I've done. I'd try to get that dash light fixed and p1140 cleared. Plan to do the brake booster soon, but mine has done it over 3 winters. I think it is really about to need replacing though. My valve covers eventually started leaking bad enough for the engine to lightly smoke. That's when I had a mechanic redo them. It's a lot of work. If you do, I'd be sure they don't use gasket in a tube. Mine did and left a mess in the spark plug wells. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

I don't know of anything on Pathfinders known to do this. I have that truck with 245k and manual transmission. The only sound I have is a little idler belt pully noise I think. You might try that. But I'd expect you to hear the pitch change when revving the engine. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

You need 3 things, fuel, spark, and air. Pull a spark plug and see if it's wet and smells of fuel, and sparking. Using a timing light might be easier for spark I'd you have one. But I wouldn't buy one just for this. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Yeah cold just means downline of the switch. I'll look again but from what I remember the switch way at the top of the brake pedal would be much harder to get to than the CC box or SMJ. When my brake switch contact bushing rotted way, it took me two hours to replace it because there was no room to get my hands up there. I had to use screwdrivers like chopsticks. I'm basing the CC on the fact I never use the brake to disengage the CC and I'm trusting myself to either use the switch or just throw in the clutch in a panic situation. Obviously I'll be driving much more conservative with a trailer, but from living in Dallas with high speed aggressive drivers and heavy traffic, my ABS usually engages once or twice a year. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk

Ok I think I found a good place to tap into it based on just the FSM without seeing how hard it will be to get in there. On my 2001, the ACSD (cruise control box) is behind the driver kick plate. In the connector going into it, on the bottom left 2nd to the last position (23) there should be a green/yellow stripe wire that goes to the brake switch. If my splice were to fail, the cruise control wouldn't kick off automatically when braking. That isn't ideal, but better than the anti-skid brakes not engaging. I'm hoping this isn't a tiny gauge wire, since my brake control box has a 16 ga pigtail (and recommends 16 ga wire) for brake sense. I don't understand why it would need to be that big for a sense wire. The other option is to splice into terminal 1c on the SMJ which is also a green/yellow stripe wire going to the left stop lamp. This might be a better location, because if my splice fails, the only thing that would happen is the left stop lamp wouldn't light up. But I can't find the SMJ terminal layout in the FSM. I'm doing OCR on it now, but it is going to take several hours. And from what I recall the access to wires around the SMJ is much tighter. I guess I'll get a better look tomorrow afternoon after work.

I'm in the process of doing this, and the red wire (brake sense) says to "wire into the cold side of the stop lamp switch or brake light." Most people say to find the brake switch wire under the dash and tap into it. With the very small wires under the dash, tight wire routing, and limited access, and since I'm already running the blue electric brake wire to the connector at the back of the car, I was thinking about just running that red wire back with it, and tapping into the brake light wire right before the box for the 3 to 2 wire trailer converter. Has anyone done it this way, or have thoughts one way or the other? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. I think you have a lot more important things to worry about. Hope you make it through with no damage. I'll put my contacts in and really squeeze my head and arm up there to see if there is any hope for me doing it. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk