87pathy

sounds like an AIV problem, not going into idle, Therefore running rich (air injection vavle) at idle. Mine does this.

personally, i wouldnt Drop the pan hard bar. I would Raise it at the axle.

any nissan, do they have the 2 door pathy flip and slide forward ones? I doubt it. Thats a big problem i'm running into. I need new seats, expecially the drivers.. starting to get a little hard on the lats.. (no more cusion, just steel on my shoulderblade whn hanging out the window)

the green moster ones are $$$$$$ a sealed one is useless (mine has been underwater many many times. In the 14 years i've owned my pathfinder, i have changed the alternator once, because of a bad voltage regulator. I ran it nearly 2 years with a bad voltage regulator. its now on its 2nd alty and gets wet VERY often. get a good reman nissan one and giver.. anything can be bad out of the box including new ones.

didn't tell you to do that the other day?

it might run on diesel.. MIGHT,, but it won't run very well

you should be OK.. but i can't guarantee that

diesel in gas not so big problem, drain it.. change filters.. maybe new plugs gas in diesel is a BIG problem though.

BWAAAHHHAAAA that will do it! Now i'd sue his ass for any repairs

wouldn't this be the fix.. You cannot move the "rack" but you can adjust your tie rods to essentially "point" your steering wheel where it needs to be.

fixed it for ya

got oil on your clutch I bet. search for "clutch Chatter". does your rig leak any oil at all, Clutch chatter normally happens when taking off and when there is Oil on the clutch.

you can adjust the TRE at the pitman arm to get it straightened back out. or hte redkneck way and remove the steering wheel and re-index it.

Yes

ya, we spoke about it, you don't want my rig... Its too nice to part out. You can find good deals in the Lower main land all the time, I buy parts from there often.

ah.. missed that, thanks greg. if you can't get into the drum with the screw driver, they make a proper tool, its about 8 bucks at any autoparts store.

those are going to be really wide. and it has to be a F250 to have the D60 and HD 44. Everytbody says they have a 390.. but its probably a 360, there is no way to tell without pulling the head. the 78-79 bronco's and F150's (not including the extended cab) have thin axle tubes. And the C"s are cast into them. If you want to use the stock radius arms they are OK, if you wnat to do a 3 link or somthing else, you need to re-tube them. i just sold a bare 78 housing for 25 bucks. here is how i would break it down D60rear 500 bucks HDd44 front 500 bucks 360/390 500 bucks T case tranny 500 bucks those are top dollar prices.. I personnaly wouldn't pay that much, but you COULD get that much. ON FIBC, get those axles that you asked about, they will work well. (oh the 9 3/8" housing is not in all of the early fords, they were commonly found in F150 extended cabs with posi.. You can identify them by a curved rib on the front drivers side of the housing and the housing will not have an N on it, if it has an N on it and the extra and curved ribs.. thats a good one!) If you want to go that route, I have a 75 Highboy for 2000 bucks US that has a electronic ignition 460 in it.. and everything else you already mentioned above

the drums are self adjusting. If its your parking brake, most likely stretched cable. If so, get under your rig, there will be a Y in the cable almost directly under your rear seats.. screw the nut in for tighter, out for looser.

the only bronco's that are full width are the 78/79 they have crappy D44's. If you get a 77F150, you can use the radius arms and all. yes, extended cab, not CC the axle difference is about 3" over all. research acerman.. it will explain it with diagrahms. If you use an Early bronco (narrower one), the problem is, that the long side of the axle is shorter, the diffential will sit nearly under your oil pan.. and cause interfearance.

nope, make it.. easy enough

My rig is stock 1/2 ton width. The ford rears were pretty narrow compared to the front, but thats why the steer so good. (proper acerman angle). best one. 76 / 77 F150. Or 78/79 EXTENDED cabs, the don't have the cast in C's as they were leaf sprung. This gives you disk breaks and non casted "C"'s on the axle. IF you can find a 66-73, they are drum brake but have 1/2" thick axle tubes. You can often pick these up for nothing and get a 78/79 bronco front end and pull the knuckles out for the disk brakes (also fairly cheap because they are not the "desirable" HPD44.). One thing you have to watch out for in teh early 70's is the 9 3/8" differential, They are stong, but no gears available, so your stuck with getting a new 3rd member. Axle shafts will work in a standard 9" third stuck into the 9 3/8" housing (no problems). (you will pay a pretty penny for the 9 3/8" axle bearings too) Hope this helps a little bit, or confused you more.

the only time i've ever seen that happen is when the cam timing is off.

Neither, NGK or Bosh I have had both autolites and champions BAD out of the box

do you want to go full width?

as light as a pathfinder? have you ever looked at the weight? they are 4K lbs stock! my rig is 5K lbs right now the numbers from bobby are correct.. (bobby Long is a friend of mine,, lives right down the road.)