kmgar99

My two cents....Go with some Bilstein shocks...stick with 8" wide rims and definitely go with 33's......If you go with an exhaust...you gotta go with an intake...either Jim Wolf or a K&N....then go with a full tune up/service......All this talk makes me want to Refinance my house....HHHHMMMMM sssh

Sweet..now I wish I had a tire rack on my 97!!

AFI right now...and anything from Metallica...but since I got Sirius Satellite radio its on Octane 20

go with the amber/mirror.....like my 97 has....I still want it darker

Mines a 1997 Rear Hatch Cylinders are shot Rear Suspension busings are gone Drivers door platic cargo holder broke off Possible Cam Bearing Shot...High pitch squeal at idle...goes away when RPM go up That's IT! Not too bad

Sorry "Findmypath" we're not usually this goofy...Oh wait .....Yes we are! I hope JJ Big Shoe answered your question! Keith

Big J, you're right! Anything over stock will put the CV joints at a high angle. I was thinking today at work while I drilled the spacer bolt holes, that 3/4" probably won't make a difference! And anything more than stock would tear up the CV Joint.....And DJ I remember reading the post on that guys install ,but I never heard anything about it again. I think it's time to leave the front alone, except for an alignment and wait for the L&P lift....hopefully before Christmas 2005!!! I work with three guys who all used to be involved with some sort of professional racing, and all three want to re-engineer my front suspension for coil overs and maybe some long travel control arms.....All at my expense of course. Well no offense to Pathfinders, but I don't really think the time, energy and massive R&D are worth it (Not when I have to foot the bill) Don't get me wrong...I would love to have the time, money, and another car as my daily driver to be able to give the Pathy to thses guys, then I could market and sell the suspension for them.....they build it...I'll sell it! Anyway...thanks all.....I digress back under my Pathys frustating rear end to cut the trailing arm bolts... Talk to ya later Keith

Nice one Mark! LOL

The 2" lift from AC gave me almost 3" of lift front and back. My front is still sitting lower, but I should be finishing up my strut spacers today and I should have them installed by the weekend. I am starting with 3/4 spacers and if all is ok, i'll make some inch and a half.

The reason they laughed was because they automatically cut the bolts off..They don't come off any other way! I've tried to remove the bolts for 4 days to no avail! I brought it to 3 Mechanics and they couldn't get them off either. I finally broke down and went to two local dealerships, after getting through the sales reps, i finally talked to several mechanics who said they won't even attempt it since 9 times out of 10 they won't come off. They cut them almost everytime! Now I have to resort to the same thing... I bought the 4 packages of bushings at Automotive Customizers. The part number is SPPE99R45068 and they are $32.50 each pair, and you need 4 packages total. I will do a write up with photos when I finaly get them done.

I haven't tried to heat them yet...(My torch ran out) but i might try to heat one of them on Saturday (Tomorrow is Paintball) If heat doesn't work, then its off with their heads! And Bernard....Thanks for looking out for me but I always wear my safety glasses..I am a Maintenance Tech at a manufacturing plant so we can't even walk in the front door without the glasses on and earplugs in. This really sucks, i was supposed to be done with these on Tuesday...i will only have two days vacation left after this and i am moving into my new house before Christmas.... Thanks everyone...i'll keep you posted

Bastard! LOL

I bought the AC bushings, but have yet to get any of the bolts off!!!!! AC told me the upper and lower bushings were the same? So i ordered what they told me..I know, i'm and idiot....but it would really be nice if I could GET THE BOLTS OFF to verify the bushing sizes.

UPDATE......I stopped at two mechanic shops on my way home from Harbor Freight and neither of them could loosen any of the bolts. They both used 3' breaker bars and impact sockets set to 160PSI......They were going to charge me at first, but i think it became a mission for each garage until they admitted defeat. Then they wished me luck and said No Charge! I started to use the nut splitter when I realized because of the design of the nut (Flared at the end...kinda like a built in washer) the nut sp;litter will only cut the nut portion, then i'm gonna have to split the flared portion with a cold chisel...Screw that...i'm cutting them all off with a cutting wheel!!!! This is the most frustrating thing I've ever done in my life......It's really discouraging! Anyway C-YA

i know on my 1997 they wont fit using the stock rims due to the lower spring perch on the strut getting in the way....

Thanks again everyone......I'm off to Harbor Freight to find a nut splitter and a longer breaker bar.....if 88's breaker bar and jack idea don't do the trick then the nut splitter surely will...... Pictures and a write up to follow

Thanks for all the tips....here are the answers.....largest cheater bar I could fit under the truck was 18" and no I can't stand on it (Bad Angle) My compressor is putting out at the max 120PSI to the impact wrench....unfortunatly, the whole idea of a standing/jumping on a cheater bar sounds great, but the nuts are located in a position that makes it impossible.......and as far as the whole bolt spinning, Nope...nothing is moving at all.... Precise1 is right....that's all a mechanic would do anyway.....I have some errands to run today, so maybe starting tonight or tomorrow morning I will start the Hacking, sawing, grinding, beating, and chewing on the bolts/nuts to get them off. Then i need a ride to the bolt place or the Stealer..HHHmmmmm....Dilema.... Anyone know the dimensions or sizes of the bolts off hand, so i can get them while i'm out today Thanks everyone

WHat kind of car did you buy it for? What are the specs? (2 in 1 out? 1 in 2 out? 2.5 inch diameter or 2.25 inch diameter?) What are the overall measurements Let me know

I was all ready to do a write up on how to replace the upper and lower rear trailing arm bushings.....camera ready....bolts beed sprayed with "PEN" penetrating lube for 3 days straight...9 days off from work (In case i screw up and have to walk to get a part) etc.... But the STUPID nuts won't come off...tried my air impact wrench/driver, 1/2 breaker bar, hammer, 5lb sledge, Cussing, and everything else I could think of. Not one of the 8 nuts would even budge!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I have to spend money and have a mechanic get them off.....AAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not really a garage forum question...more of a venting....but anyway :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious:

Man, thats alot of work......I'm glad i live in Southern California...No rust problems here...just dry rot on the rubber and plastic!

Welcome to NPORA, we love to give advice on how to DIY. It sounds like it could be a fuse,, and the right side of the instrument cluster and the PRND lights are on one fuse. So I would start with the simple things...fuses. You don't need to test fuses, all you have to do is pull it out and make sure you can see the Z, or U shaped piece of metal through the plastic. If its ok them put it back in and go to the next one. Be sure to turn off everything including the interior lights before you start pulling fuses. And read the schematic on the back of the fuse area cover. You don't want ot pull out fuses you don't need to be checking. As far as the PRND lighting up, I believe it should light up when the instrument cluster lights up. (Not sure if it comes on with the parking or headlights) If its not a fuse it could be a loose wire on the headlight switch or instrument cluster. Or it could be the bulbs. I recommend (and i think all would agree) you get a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual from your local auto parts store. Even if you don't do the work yourself, it will help you get to know your Pathy Again, WELCOME Keith

I Love Harbor Freight.....Some many tools, so little cost, so little time! I have to buy a certain amount of tools every month at work (Union crap, have to prove I'm using the tool allowance on tools) Some of the tech's buy off the Snap On truck and get one tool they MIGHT use once or twice a year for an insane amount, and i go to Harbor Freight for those types of tools, (Strap wrenches, Star bits, allen wrench sets, impact hammer deep sockets, etc, etc) I can get all those tools for the price of one Snap On strap wrench. Sorry....I Digress..... sssh

Hopefully with all the gas involved it does'nt blow up....BOOM!

I WANT A PAIR!!!!! Dang those look sweet! I am getting closer and closer to giving up my R50 (1997 Pathy) for an Pre 1996 Pathy! Post some install photos!

You might actually be getting fuel to the injectors BUT, not enough fuel to turn it over. Like Matterhorn said replace the fuel filter and if the car has been sitting for a long time, you might try a bottle of the fuel injector cleaner in the tank as well. Double check all the plugs (Gap), wires, distributor, rotor, etc.....