kmgar99

UPDATE......I stopped at two mechanic shops on my way home from Harbor Freight and neither of them could loosen any of the bolts. They both used 3' breaker bars and impact sockets set to 160PSI......They were going to charge me at first, but i think it became a mission for each garage until they admitted defeat. Then they wished me luck and said No Charge! I started to use the nut splitter when I realized because of the design of the nut (Flared at the end...kinda like a built in washer) the nut sp;litter will only cut the nut portion, then i'm gonna have to split the flared portion with a cold chisel...Screw that...i'm cutting them all off with a cutting wheel!!!! This is the most frustrating thing I've ever done in my life......It's really discouraging! Anyway C-YA

i know on my 1997 they wont fit using the stock rims due to the lower spring perch on the strut getting in the way....

Thanks again everyone......I'm off to Harbor Freight to find a nut splitter and a longer breaker bar.....if 88's breaker bar and jack idea don't do the trick then the nut splitter surely will...... Pictures and a write up to follow

Thanks for all the tips....here are the answers.....largest cheater bar I could fit under the truck was 18" and no I can't stand on it (Bad Angle) My compressor is putting out at the max 120PSI to the impact wrench....unfortunatly, the whole idea of a standing/jumping on a cheater bar sounds great, but the nuts are located in a position that makes it impossible.......and as far as the whole bolt spinning, Nope...nothing is moving at all.... Precise1 is right....that's all a mechanic would do anyway.....I have some errands to run today, so maybe starting tonight or tomorrow morning I will start the Hacking, sawing, grinding, beating, and chewing on the bolts/nuts to get them off. Then i need a ride to the bolt place or the Stealer..HHHmmmmm....Dilema.... Anyone know the dimensions or sizes of the bolts off hand, so i can get them while i'm out today Thanks everyone

WHat kind of car did you buy it for? What are the specs? (2 in 1 out? 1 in 2 out? 2.5 inch diameter or 2.25 inch diameter?) What are the overall measurements Let me know

I was all ready to do a write up on how to replace the upper and lower rear trailing arm bushings.....camera ready....bolts beed sprayed with "PEN" penetrating lube for 3 days straight...9 days off from work (In case i screw up and have to walk to get a part) etc.... But the STUPID nuts won't come off...tried my air impact wrench/driver, 1/2 breaker bar, hammer, 5lb sledge, Cussing, and everything else I could think of. Not one of the 8 nuts would even budge!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I have to spend money and have a mechanic get them off.....AAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not really a garage forum question...more of a venting....but anyway :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious:

Man, thats alot of work......I'm glad i live in Southern California...No rust problems here...just dry rot on the rubber and plastic!

Welcome to NPORA, we love to give advice on how to DIY. It sounds like it could be a fuse,, and the right side of the instrument cluster and the PRND lights are on one fuse. So I would start with the simple things...fuses. You don't need to test fuses, all you have to do is pull it out and make sure you can see the Z, or U shaped piece of metal through the plastic. If its ok them put it back in and go to the next one. Be sure to turn off everything including the interior lights before you start pulling fuses. And read the schematic on the back of the fuse area cover. You don't want ot pull out fuses you don't need to be checking. As far as the PRND lighting up, I believe it should light up when the instrument cluster lights up. (Not sure if it comes on with the parking or headlights) If its not a fuse it could be a loose wire on the headlight switch or instrument cluster. Or it could be the bulbs. I recommend (and i think all would agree) you get a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual from your local auto parts store. Even if you don't do the work yourself, it will help you get to know your Pathy Again, WELCOME Keith

I Love Harbor Freight.....Some many tools, so little cost, so little time! I have to buy a certain amount of tools every month at work (Union crap, have to prove I'm using the tool allowance on tools) Some of the tech's buy off the Snap On truck and get one tool they MIGHT use once or twice a year for an insane amount, and i go to Harbor Freight for those types of tools, (Strap wrenches, Star bits, allen wrench sets, impact hammer deep sockets, etc, etc) I can get all those tools for the price of one Snap On strap wrench. Sorry....I Digress..... sssh

Hopefully with all the gas involved it does'nt blow up....BOOM!

I WANT A PAIR!!!!! Dang those look sweet! I am getting closer and closer to giving up my R50 (1997 Pathy) for an Pre 1996 Pathy! Post some install photos!

You might actually be getting fuel to the injectors BUT, not enough fuel to turn it over. Like Matterhorn said replace the fuel filter and if the car has been sitting for a long time, you might try a bottle of the fuel injector cleaner in the tank as well. Double check all the plugs (Gap), wires, distributor, rotor, etc.....

When you say slants back...do you mean the whole rear seems lower than the front? Most Pathy's (If Stock) have a slightly higher rear end compared to the front. If your rear end...(The Pathy's that is...Nothing personal) is lower than the front, then you probably have worn out shocks and coils springs. The bushings on the rear trailing arms won't make the rear end sag...they only make the Pathy's rear end do the "WOBBLE" (For lack of better term)

Thanks for the tips...you cna go to Plastic info and click on PLASTIC under RAW MATERIALS/SPRINGS. It will give you a list of all the plastics they sell and their chemical makeup...it tells you tensil strength, shear strength, and even a Shore Durometer or Rockwell hardness results. I'm going with a solid 1" thick piece instead of a 1/2" piece. If i can't find the plastic I want then i'll with a piece of aluminum. Let me know how they are working and I'll post photos of the build and install when I do mine. I might have to wait until next month to do them since my new rear trailing arm bushings will be here on the 19th, so next weekend is booked.

So you ended up with a 1/2" thick piece? You need about a 7" square to start right? I am going with the full 1" thick...I can always cut it later.

SWEET!!!!! I have been wanting to do the same thing except I didnt think about replacing the existing strut bolts with longer ones...I was trying to figure out how to bolt the strut to the spacer then using some more bolts...bolt the strut to the truck...but you solved it..How difficult was it to hammer out the strut studs? I am thinking of using a block of grey Delrin instead of teflon...it's a little harder and almost as good at self lubricating.... Cool! You totally solved my dilema..

Slept in my 96 and my 97...both on trips to San Antonio from SoCal. Both my wife and I slept in the back with the seats down......wasn't really that bad..it does suck if it gets too hot or cold since the heat/ac controls are just out of reach, so you have to get out to adjust it.

I installed the Automotive Customizers 2" lift for 96 and up Pathy and my rear end wobble is still there. It is much less....but still happening. My new rear bushings will be here on the 19th so hopefully by Sunday the 24th, I will be done with the install.

Being in SoCal....not much mudfinding out here....Like I said before, I would still buy one if the price was right....

KYB makes a good strut and Bilstein makes kick but shocks....Check your local shops for the best prices....If you really don't wheel that much then another brand might be cheaper...I don't have any other suggestions.

darn if filling up your tank makes the suspension compress that much....you definitely should be chacking out the shocks and springs. Maybe even having the dealer check it out (BITE MY TOUNGE!) If its still under warranty. Even before my lift, my 97 never sagged when i filled it up. And my shock literally fell apart before I finished unbolting them from the truck.

Ive given up on the whole picture posting.....I am including links to my website instead..Noone is really sure whats up...

Thanks everyone....Big J...I don't have to worry about who will press them in since we have a 3,000psi hydraulic press at work. All i hope is that AC actually ships them out this year!...Maybe I should wait to bash AC until AFTER i get my parts sssh

see my reply to this under General forums

You might check local laws...they might not allow fog lights to be on when only the parking lights are on....I think thats why car makers wire fg lights and auxillary driving lights the main headlamp part of the switch.....I know here in SoCal it is a moving violation...