kmgar99

My RPM's are 2500 RPM @ 70 MPH.....32" BFG AT KO's with a 2" AC lift...40 miles each way to and from work with six 10% incline grades that change elevation by 1,000 feet each. Up down Up Down Up Down Etc.....

Exactly Vengeful! The driveshaft angle is my #1 concern...Mostly making sure the amount of drop I get doesn't require a custom length shaft...that gets $$$$$.

Stick to a Nissan....you gotta put those free rims on something! I see the Insurance companies point and airbag can cost $1800 or so (Inclucding labor) That deal in the Auto Trader is a good one, but i didn't think any of the 1997's had the option of a spare tire carrier?

That's awesome! R50's rule!

I think keeping the drop to an inch or two and 33's or smaller tires should be fine. Like YOWZAERIC said the drive shaft length/angle is key....i'm not too worried about the CV joints since dropping the crossmember and inch or so is no different than adding the AC or OME 2" springs up front along with some 1" strut spacers

That was over 15 years ago and my friend who still lives there says the kid is a clerk at a gas station food mart! Go Figure!

The thief was the driver....I was on the cordless phone standing on the corner telling the dispatcher the roar she was hearing was the thief tearing up the neighborhood in my 71 Firebird Formula 400....then the ass hit the wall!! The old man with the wall dropped the suit and appologized when he realized i wasn't the driver, in fac tthe car was stolen.

Never had anything stolen out of a car or house here in SoCal, never mind a whole car...But when I lived in Boston (Weymouth exactly) I had two cars stolen and literally one was racing around my neighborhood while I was on the phone with police dispatch....The 15 year old drove past me at around 80 missed judged a sharp left and hit a 12 foot tall 200 year old flagstone wall head on right in front of me....I was so mad i went over to the car and was about to try and pull him from the car....Not to save him but to beat the crap out of him, when a cop pulled me aside...He actually had enough brains to put on the 5 point before he hit the wall (The owner of the wall tried to sue my parents and me for the damage)

You're droping the front crossmember that supports the control arms???? I was looking under the Pathy the other day and wondered if that could be done! How are you doing it? I was thinking of welding or bolting a 2x3 thick wall u-channel to the frame, then mounting the original crossmember to that.....More thought, measuring, and drawing is definitely in order. Pictures, Pictures, Pictures, man I love pictures....

Just read about Seafoam......sounds like a decent product.....Does It Work? My intake manifold interior is all black and needs to be cleaned.....

thank you all ill check out the old threads......This one can be killed!

I'm lookin to buy a CB for the trail, but don't need a $200 trucker type....anyone using any of the cheaper ones......

I remember either MR Jim or 88 wanting to put some scoops....but I couldn't find the post with the search...

Most hood scoops are designed to allow air directly into the intake manifold/carb....but if all you want is the look, i wouldn't cut the hole in the hood.....the hole will reduce the strength of the hood causing it to buckle and if you wheel through water at all...as FLApathy says don't hit the water too fast...it'll dump water directly on the top of the engine....

Thanks Everyone....With everyones reply, i'm good to go....I think it's time to do the Timing Belt, water pump, and associated items while i'm in that area.....maybe even an electric fan conversion....

How bout some basic stuff like fuel filter.....Maybe the truck sat for a while and is all clogged up

Did a search of the forums, but nothing showed up for R50's....Has anyone done this yet....Where is the thermostat located..... Man I need to find a repair manual.....local dealer did'nt even have one in stock.

I agree with you XPLORx4, thats why i'm starting with the 1/2". All I really want to do is level the truck without lowering the rear.....Truthfully i think the CV axles are already maxed witht the AC 2" lift springs...But we'll see!

No salt environment in SoCal...I left the NorthEast in 1988...no more of that crap.... The bolts i'm gonna use will probably change, but thats what i had on hand to determine the length i need.

one more....P.S. how do you add multiple photos to a post from your PC?

Yup mine are only 1/2"....Right now with the K-MAC camber adjusting kit installed i have some positive adjustment to play with, so I don't see any problems installing some 1 - 1.5" ones later.....but i want to use the 1/2" ones as guinea pigs...... Off the subject but has anyone hear this Australian Pink Floyd? Damn they're good! Big Floyd fan here! 4 Floyd concerts under my belt...no othe rband has ever topped those concerts... Anyway hares some more shots

Remember these haven't been installed yet so i don't know if they'll need further grinding or fitting. The bolts i'm thinking of using are some grade 8 socket cap bolts (Allen head) 2 1/4" long x 3/8" thick with a grade 8 nut, lockwasher and washer. I wouldn't double up on the 9/16, just make some 1" yourself.....all you need is some drill bits, drill, hacksaw, misc files....You can substitute power tools in place of the hacksaw and files. Here are some shots of the dimensions......I think someone on this board gave me a drawing of the dimensions....i look for it later.

As you can tell by the date on the photo, i'm kinda lazy.....Hopefully during some vacation time over the holidays I can finish my alignment and install the spacers. If all goes well with the 1/2" spacers i'll make some 1" ones out of the same material.... For those of you that don't have access to materials you can find all you need right here at Online Metals

And here is the one of it all cut

I made a set of 1/2" spacers out of aluminum.....here is the plate before i got it cut out